1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Paint before or after Rhino liner

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by CJ5Doc, Oct 6, 2009.

  1. Oct 6, 2009
    CJ5Doc

    CJ5Doc Member

    Folsom, Ca
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2009
    Messages:
    152
    I'm getting close to the end of my project and would like to Rhino line the inside or something use something similar. My question is should I paint the outside 1st and then rhino line or paint after? I understand that the liner is a messy process and want to prep as little as possible
     
  2. Oct 7, 2009
    nwedgar

    nwedgar Now with TBI!

    Newnan, Georgia
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2005
    Messages:
    1,785
    I think paint first...dont' have to worry about overspray then. If Rhino liner is applied in a similar way to Herculiner, it goes on with a roller and/or a brush, so not worries about overspray...as long as you tape off your edges.

    If you mean paint under the Rhino liner....I wouldn't do that...it won't last because the paint needs lots of cure time before applying Rhino. At least from what I've read.
     
  3. Oct 7, 2009
    rixcj

    rixcj Member

    Rhode Island
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2006
    Messages:
    351
    I'm going to line the inside, and underside of my fiberglass tub. I've also been contemplating on whether to line, then paint, or vice-versa.

    I bought tintable liner (upol raptor), so the liner and the paint will be match.

    That being the case, I think that I'm going to line first ( masking off, of course), then paint (masking, again). I don't plan on getting any paint overspray on the liner, but if I do, it'll probably never show.

    Rich
     
  4. Oct 8, 2009
    CJ5Doc

    CJ5Doc Member

    Folsom, Ca
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2009
    Messages:
    152
    So do these liners like to be applied to primer or bare metal?
     
  5. Oct 8, 2009
    nwedgar

    nwedgar Now with TBI!

    Newnan, Georgia
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2005
    Messages:
    1,785
    When I did my Herculiner, the directions said either, but they did say that any painted surface must be completely cured...and to make sure it was roughed up. Not sure about Rhino liner though. Regardless of what surface, make sure it's really really clean.
     
  6. Oct 9, 2009
    Tom in RI

    Tom in RI Member

    Rhode Island
    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2008
    Messages:
    234
    It takes paint at least 30+ days to really cure, even catalyzed paints. If this were a steel tub I would vote for paint-wait-liner as a way to really fight rust . Since this body is FG, you can probably skip even painting as long as you are giving the liner a surface that it can adhere onto. roughed up gelcoat might be good but check with the liner mfg.
    Tom
     
  7. Oct 9, 2009
    Tarby

    Tarby New Member

    Smethport, PA
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2009
    Messages:
    29
    The Upol liner is nice-but it does fade after some time, and after it cures, it isn't a perfect match, but is really close. I work at a collision shop and we have used just about everything you can think of. If you want a good even look to exterior coats, you have to spray. When we prepped a hardtop for a TJ, we 320 grit DA sanded, then done all the edges with red pad scuff pad (3M pad). Stuff sticks awsome with a good scuffed base. Let it dry for a good couple of days if not Booth baking...needs time to really get hard. If you paint over the liner, it's a gamble. I know here in the north, customers like to use this as chip guard on rockers, works good...but paint eventually gets hammered off by stones, etc. Raptor liner in my opinion is the better choice out there, at this time...just my 2 cents...
     
  8. Oct 10, 2009
    goodolboy71

    goodolboy71 Member

    SC
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2003
    Messages:
    51
    I have seen several buddies use the DIY kits, and none perform, hold up, and look anywhere as good as the red rhino liner we had sprayed in our CJ5 in 1998. They cost more but IMO are worth it. I have seen another brand called Pendaliner or something that was pretty good as well. The biggest issues i seen with the duplicolors , herculine,etc was it was more of a hard paint with rubber or grit then the professional sprayed on urethane types. I dont know if its the process or shot hot or cold or what but the difference is night and day even with the DIY ones i seen used with a undercoating gun. When we did ours back in 98 we had the whole tub sandblasted and then shot with an epoxy primer since it wasnt going to Rhino that day. Supposedly at the time they didnt reccommed any other primer cause we specified if we could just use the red oxide type but they said no. I would paint the outside and not the inside and then take it. If its not going to be that long a wait what little scale rust show up will be easily taken out with a wire brush.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2009
  9. Oct 10, 2009
    Sparky74cj

    Sparky74cj Member

    Naches, Washington
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2009
    Messages:
    146
    My 74CJ5 was spray Rhino lined buy a truck shop prior to me owning it. the guy painted the jeep first then they taped off the edges and spray lined it. this is a very heavy coat of liner. my problem now is I hated the color he painted the jeep and am going to repaint it. trying to mast that liner to new paint realy sucks. paint the rig first then give it plenty of time to cure. then line it. My jeep is line over the rail edge to the outer body rib so the top and doors can't scuff the paint any. if you are only going to line the inner edges up to the rail it won't be a big deal.
     
New Posts