front and rear wheel seals.

My oh my you western guys are really making me jealous. I've been to Durango a few times ... beautiful country.

I'd like to visit Chama too and see the steam train there (as well as the one at Durango, again).

 

i dont understand why it took me so many years to get a jeep.
i have lived in what is called the jeep capitol of the world for 3 decades!

 

you are a prince among men.
what kept me from doing the front bearings was...
i cant get the warn hubs off!
i already bought the special great big socket and seals too!

 

Bill
Take a picture of your hubs and some body will tell you how to get off.
I have a fender for you has indent but no hole for light.
and FSM for you.
Andrew

 

thanks for the fender and book!
heres the hub.

 

i removed those 6 bolts and pulled the casing off
there was a round clip that was maybe an inch across
i got that off.
and a race with some cylinder shaped bearings came off next.
that was when i got stuck and just put it all back together.

 

ok
great
you gave me hope again.
i get overwhelmed sometimes.
thank you chuck!

 

If you are in arizona contact BMI Off-road we are steeped in working on the classic cjs.

 

no i didnt.
i had goo all over my hands and couldnt see anything anyway.
it looked like there was a big nut in there
and my front spindle wheel bearing wrench was too small.

 

Bill,
The bearings aren't too tough. The only special tool you need is a special socket, about 10 bucks. The midwest willys jeep parts site has an exploded print that shows the front bearings. It is under 'wheel parts".
Take off the front wheel. Remove the bolts holding the locking hub on. They are a bit of a pain because there is minimal clearance and they have a locking tab on each bolt. After the locking hub unit comes off , you are looking at the hub/spindle assembly. It will have a big nut inside of the hub. Remove the big , thin nut It has a locking tab that must be flattened to allow the nut to turn. You can use a punch to turn the nut if you don't want to spring for the socket. After the big nut and locking washer comes off, there will be another nut. This nut sets the endplay on the bearing. Remove this big nut. Next is a big washer with a anti-rotation tab. Remove this.
Now you are looking at the outer bearing. The bearings have a press fit on the outer race and a slip fit on the inner. This means the cone will slide off the spindle. Just tap lightly on the hub, and it should slide off the spindle. The rear cone will proably stay on the spindle, and the front cone will fall into your hand. Don't mix them up! Make sure the outer cone goes in the outside and the inner cone goes on the inside. The cone/cup is the bearing. Clean them up and repacke them, them reassemble. If you don't have a dial indicator to set the bearing endplay, just tighten the nut until ther is no axial movement in the hub. I recently changed all my front end bearings and the wheel bearings were about 160 bucks for the set. Look for spalling. It will show as little specks of metal that came out of the outer race. If there is no spalling and the bearing spins ok, put them back in after repack.
The hardest part of this job ( in my opinion) is removing the bolts holding the locking hub to the wheel hub. Other than that , it's not too bad.
Good luck.

 

i bought the front spindle wheel bearing wrench from kaiser willy's.
thats gotta be the right one.
doesnt it?:?R):twisted:

 

???

 

Here is a parts brake down of your hubs, it is the bottom section.
It looks like you will need the other style of spindle nut socket.


Andrew

 

the other style?
is it a bigger one?