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Buzzbox T.I.G. Welding 101

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by rixcj, Jan 9, 2009.

  1. Jan 9, 2009
    rixcj

    rixcj Member

    Rhode Island
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2006
    Messages:
    351
    This thread is intended to help anyone who wants to have a tig setup at a relatively inexpensive cost. If you already have a buzz box, capable of DC output, you are REALLY ahead of the game. If you have to go buy a DC buzzbox, you may want to look around for a used one. If you have to buy a brand new buzzbox, you may as well look at a new/used entry level tig machine.

    This method of tig welding, called "scratch start" tig, is down and dirty, but, it has served me well for years. You won't be able to weld aluminum with this method, but you'll be able to weld steel, stainless, copper, and other metals.

    Just remember, a high quality tig setup is VERY EXPENSIVE! I have a pretty nice tig welder in my shop, that I paid $3800.00 for about 8 or 9 years ago. They come with NOTHING. No tig torch, no foot pedal, no torch cooling system, no flowmeter, no hood, no tungstens, NOTHING! By the time I was done buying everything else that I needed to weld what I weld, it cost me about another$2000.00. Then, I still had to lease the large argon bottles from my supplier. Just letting you know all this for comparison.

    Here's what you'll need to get started:

    -DC capable buzzbox.

    -GAS COOLED tig torch ( NOT water cooled!). Lots of options...we'll discuss later.

    -Small argon bottle (PURE argon). You can buy the small ones outright.

    -Some tungstens ...we'll discuss later.

    -Gas flowmeter.

    -And all the other welding gear that you probably already have (hood, bodily protection, etc.).

    Here's what this stuff looks like:

    Tig torch...exploded view
    [​IMG]

    Tig torch assembled
    [​IMG]

    A DC buzzbox....yours is probably different..that's OK
    [​IMG]

    Tig torch, power cable, gas hose, and flowmeter assembly
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Ground clamp/cable
    [​IMG]

    Everything hooked up
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This is what you need to start. Here's how it works when you go to buy this stuff...just about every piece is sold separately. In that exploded pic of the tig torch, all parts were chosen separately, because there are SOOOO many options, that the suppliers don't sell them assembled.

    As you can tell, this can become a very longwinded thread. I am trying to explain things to you so that you don't make expensive mistakes, but that requires a lot of info. Please bear with me.

    To help you NOT get discouraged by all info overload, let me just say that it's all worth it, to be able to tig weld. It's awesome. You will be amazed at what you will be able to do, with some practice.

    So, now, I'll give you some advice on what to buy, then I'll give you some practice projects. After all...you can't just buy all this stuff and start welding on your jeep! You've got to understand what's going on, and become good at it!

    Tig torch...buy a small one. Something capable of up to 125 amps. They're easier to hold and manipulate, and you can weld plenty, with 125 amps. REMEMBER--GAS COOLED!! I highly recommend one with a gas shutoff on the torch, to save gas from constantly running. Argon is not cheap.

    Torch power cable/gas hose...they come in different lengths. That's you're choice. Just make sure that it wll fit up to your tig torch.

    Collets, gas lens...I recommend 3/32". It's a good all around size. These are meant to hold 3/32" dia. tungsten.

    Tungsten...3/32" dia.with 2% cerium. Buy a few (they come 7" long), or a whole box (10 pcs. x 7" long). You'll go through them, especially when learning!

    Flowmeter...an inexpensive inert gas flowmeter is fine. Just make sure that it has a calibration for ARGON. Some flowmeters are calibrated for several gases.

    Tig rod (filler material). Comes in different types, and diameters, depending on what you're welding. Having some 1/16" steel tig wire on hand doesn't hurt, for starters.

    A #11 shade welding lens is recommended for tig, but use what works for you. Nice thin gloves are nice, too. They sell tig gloves, but I just buy thin leather gloves wherever they're cheap.

    That's the basic setup. Here's a link to a pretty good place...
    http://tigdepot.net/products_details2_paypal_google.php?productid=197

    I highly recommend buying the initial setup from your local welding supply store. This way, you can tell them what you're doing, and they'll help you choose, and, they'll also help you assemble the torch, etc., if you're not too sure about how to do it. Plus, you'll have to buy your gas and other stuff from them,anyway.

    Now, I'll explain the proper way to sharpen your tungsten. It's best to use a bench grinder, and a pin vise ( to hold the tungsten...especially when they get short!).

    Hold the tungsten, as shown in the picture, and grind to a point, with a small flat, at the tip of the point( about 1/64" flat). The point should be about 2 times as long as the tungsten diameter.

    [​IMG]

    That's the proper way. It's preferred to have the grinder grooves run parallel to the length of the tungsten, versus around the tungsten. Presonally, I've done it both ways and both ways work...I'm just giving you the preferred way.

    SETTING THINGS UP:

    Set up the torch assembly( all the parts), but leave out the tungsten. Snug all parts, finger tight. Now, loosen the end cap a little, and slide the tungsten into the center of the gas lens and into the collet. The very tip of the tungsten should stick out about 1/4" to 3/8". Tighten the end cap. This will lock the tungsten in.

    Set the flowmeter at 15 c.f.h., for starters. Don't weld in windy conditions..it doesn't work!

    Set welding machine for DC NEGATIVE. That means that the electrode (tig torch/tungsten) is negative, and the work (ground), is positive.

    Remember! The metal must be clean!! No rust, paint, oil, etc. You can weld through light mill scale, but I don't recommend it. I grind it off. The results are worth it.

    PRACTICE PROJECTS:

    For starters, you must get a feel of what tig welding is all about. If you've ever gas welded (NOT brazed), it will be similar. The tungsten will melt the metal. Filler rod is not always needed. Initially, we will not be using any filler rod.

    So,I want you to see what the tungsten does. I recommend using a piece of 3/16" steel (ground CLEAN). if you don't have any steel around, you can buy some at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.. Get some 3/16", 1/8", and 16 gauge (1/16"), for practice.

    For this project, set your welder at about 80-85 amps. Make sure that you have a good ground, and that the gas is turned on. If the gas is NOT turned on, you'll know it. Trust me.

    To strike an arc, hold the torch like a pencil, and rest the outer edge of your hand on the table. Don't try to weld with your hand completely in the air. Now, hold the tip of the tungsten about 1" above the surface of the metal. REMEMBER! EVERYTHING IS HOT AT THIS STAGE! IF THE TUNGSTEN TOUCHES ANYTHING THAT IS GROUNDED, IT WILL STRIKE AN ARC!
    [​IMG]
    With your hood down, gently, but with authority, strike the tungsten across the workpiece (like stick welding). Once the arc is established, bring the tungsten down to about 1/8", or less, above the surface of the metal. Stay there until a puddle forms.
    Now, just move forward ( you want to push, the torch--NOT pull it), and try to maintain an even travel speed. You can slow down, or speed up, just to see what happens when you do. But the key is to learn to maintain consistency. When you want to stop welding, lift the tungsten up.This will break the arc, but learn not to lift it off too high, as you still want the argon gas to flow onto the end of the weld (post flow), for a few seconds.Then, shut the gas off, unless you're going to go right back and try another pass.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I recommend just practicing striking an arc, running little heat passes, and breaking the arc, until you can do it proficiently.

    If your tungsten get all messed up, it can be taken out (loosen the end cap), and re-sharpened.

    Now, lets try a lap joint. Use 1/8" thick pieces for this. Try about 75 amps.

    [​IMG]
    After tacking, strike an arc, and weave up and down, while pushing forward. You're actually taking the edge of the top piece, melting it, and bringing it down to fill the joint. No filler rod required!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    And here it is cleaned up...

    [​IMG]

    Okay...that's enough for now. practice this stuff until you can do it second nature. Don't be in a hurry to go weld on your jeep. I want you to make me proud!:patriot:

    After some feedback, and I'm sure there'll be some questions, I'll post other projects.

    Have fun!!

    Rich
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2009
  2. Jan 9, 2009
    Sledgehammer

    Sledgehammer Sure, I'll try it

    Ellery, Il
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Messages:
    341
    No I haven't built one yet but you did a great job with pics and step by step instructions. Thanks
     
  3. Jan 9, 2009
    jayhawkclint

    jayhawkclint ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    Oklahoma City, USA
    Joined:
    May 18, 2006
    Messages:
    2,622
    Holy crap I'm jealous of your welds - and with a buzz box no less! Very nice writeup. Thanks for sharing.
     
  4. Jan 9, 2009
    Homebrew2

    Homebrew2 Member

    Dunlap, CA
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2007
    Messages:
    511
    Absolutely great presentation!!! Thank you very much!!!
     
  5. Jan 9, 2009
    trickpatrick

    trickpatrick Done? LOL

    North Idaho USA
    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2006
    Messages:
    838
    Sweet.

    Rookie here.
    I have a 220 lincoln mig welder.
    And I do OK with it.
    Could you use the mig for the buzz box?
     
  6. Jan 9, 2009
    hudsonhawk

    hudsonhawk Well-Known Member

    North Texas...
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2005
    Messages:
    1,937
    Nice write up. I have a question.

    Why could you not use a standard 75/25 welding mix for the sheilding gas vs. pure argon?
     
  7. Jan 9, 2009
    rixcj

    rixcj Member

    Rhode Island
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2006
    Messages:
    351
    I'm not positive, but perhaps. If you could tap into the power and ground lugs inside the machine, you'd hook up your torch to the ground, and a ground cable to the mig gun power lug. Short arc mig is DC reverse welding, we want DC straight. Flux core should be done with DC straight, though, so you'd have to experiment.
    Also, with mig, you can vary the voltage. With a tig machine, or a buzzbox, the voltage is constant, so you'd have to experiment with the mig welders' voltage control, too.

    I don't want to say you can't use a mig welder for tig, but I'm not absolutely sure.
     
  8. Jan 9, 2009
    rixcj

    rixcj Member

    Rhode Island
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2006
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    Pure argon is a nice, stable inert gas. When you add CO2 to it, it burns hotter, and more violently. It works well with short arc mig, but not with tig. You don't get good wetting action, and smooth metal flow.

    Also, pure argon is cheaper than Ar/CO2 mix.
     
  9. Jan 9, 2009
    hudsonhawk

    hudsonhawk Well-Known Member

    North Texas...
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2005
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    1,937
    Cool I was just wondering if you could keep from having 2 bottles around.
     
  10. Jan 9, 2009
    bkap

    bkap Gone, but not long gone.

    Tucson, AZ
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2006
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    784
    Very nice, complete writeup. Thanks for posting this.

    I'll have to admit I did a quick scan but don't recall seeing anything about a foot pedal. Is it worth trying to cobble one together?

    Time to go dig around for the old buzz box. :)
     
  11. Jan 9, 2009
    Chris Insull

    Chris Insull All roads lead me back to the beach... 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chesapeake, VA.
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    805
    Great write-up! The price quoted in the link for the conversion kit seems reasonable. What Buzz-Box specs would you recommend?
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2009
  12. Jan 9, 2009
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
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    5,349
    If I remember right, when I had mine a few years back I had about $125 total into it.

    And to my knowledge you can't put a pedal setup on a buzz box as that varies amperage and the buzz box has no means of supporting it.
     
  13. Jan 9, 2009
    MHaver

    MHaver When people get bored

    Boyne City, Michigan
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2008
    Messages:
    44
    If one had an AC/DC BuzzBox, like the old Lincons, would you be able to use the AC setting for aluminum?
     
  14. Jan 9, 2009
    jayhawkclint

    jayhawkclint ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    Oklahoma City, USA
    Joined:
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    Those are really pretty welds. I dont' suppose you could demo some 18ga? How tight do the joints have to be without filler?
     
  15. Jan 9, 2009
    rixcj

    rixcj Member

    Rhode Island
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2006
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    351
    You can't use a foot pedal on a buzzbox. A footpedal is used to regulate the amperage, during welding, and the welding machine has to have a remote amperage recepticle to plug the foot pedal into.
    I was talking about when I bought my other Thermal Dynamics tig welder. That machine DOES have a remote amperage recepticle in it, but the machine didn't come with a foot pedal. I had to buy one separately.
     
  16. Jan 9, 2009
    rixcj

    rixcj Member

    Rhode Island
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2006
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    351
    A Lincoln AC/DC buzzbox is very popular, or a Miller Thunderbolt...something like that.
     
  17. Jan 9, 2009
    rixcj

    rixcj Member

    Rhode Island
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2006
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    351
    I will demonstrate anything you want. Possibly, tomorrow.

    Any joint that you are not going to add filler rod to HAS to be a tight, almost perfect fitup. Otherwise, you're trying to bridge the base metal over a gap. That's not good.

    You can get away with NO filler material on lap joints (as shown already), or on outside corner joints. I'll post some pics of what I mean, later.

    I don't recommend welding fillet welds, or butt joints without filler rod. It can be done, but it's not that strong, and the base metal ends up being undercut. But...you've got to practice running beads on flat metal WITH filler rod before attempting fillet welds. I'll give practice projects showing how to do that in a few days. Baby steps...;)
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2009
  18. Jan 9, 2009
    rixcj

    rixcj Member

    Rhode Island
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2006
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    You need continuous high frequency to weld aluminum. Welding suppliers DO sell high freq. boxes that guys attach to their gas drive AC welding machines, but I'm not sure if the boxes can be used with buzzboxes. A welding supplier could answer that.

    Better quality welders($$$) have that hi-freq. hardware built in them.
     
  19. Jan 9, 2009
    bkap

    bkap Gone, but not long gone.

    Tucson, AZ
    Joined:
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    Would it be worth the effort to use a foot pedal as an on-off switch? I wasn't necessarily thinking of changing or regulating the amperage.
     
  20. Jan 9, 2009
    ShowMeGuy

    ShowMeGuy ShowMeGuy (MO) 1966 CJ5

    St. Louis Metro
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2008
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    You have some welding skills... I'd also like to see you show something with some smaller ga like 16ga or 18ga..... maybe even 20ga.... U da MAN
     
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