Figuring out my axles?

I'm crunching at the bit to start on my cj-6 build. I hope to pick up the steel tomorrow for frame boxing. I have the engine, trans, transfer case pretty much gone through. I need to figure out if I'm going to buy a narrowed front 44 housing and spend the money to customize it or just throw Scout II running gear under it. I have my springs already finished, custom wrangler rear leaf packs. My question is do you see any problem with running a centered rear differential axle from a dana 18 transfer case? The long wheelbase of the cj-6 I'm hoping is long enough to do this. What are your opinions.

 

JP Magazine did a write up on using a centered rear axle with the D18. As I recall they used a driveshaft with a CV joint on both ends. I believe they considered it a temporary fix though. I wouldn't do it, but you can.

 

:iagree:

I also wouldn't use a Scout 2 front unless you plan on cutting and turning the front inner knuckles. The outer knuckles will not be much use either as the steering arms are much too long which will reduce your turning radius. A wagoneer narrow track would be a better choice as it has caster built in whereas most Scout 2 fronts have 0* caster. You can tilt the housing back but that also tilts the pinion down towards the dirt. IH was able to get away with it because of the design of their frame and leaf springs and various other things. Either front axle you will need to outboard the front springs (If used in the stock width configuration). If you have one narrowed or have a custom front built then all these issues can be addressed. There are places up north that can help you with this, Olympic 4x4, BillyBobs, Prine Jeep parts, Al's 4x4 in Pasco. A little further south is Woody's (expensive), or R&P 4WD Parts Inc. There may be more up there that I'm not thinking of right now. The Scout 2 rear is a good unit if used with a centered rear output transfer case. There are disc brake conversions available for it as well. If you're interested PM me and I'll give you a link. If you're simply looking for the low range of the 18 you can use a combination of 18, 20 and Early Bronco model 20 gears to get a centered (20) transfer case with the 18's 2.46-1 low range. Do a search for "20 low range conversion". If you can't find the info you need pm me, I've done the conversion many, many times for customers.

 

Thank You, looks like I should bit the bullet and pay to have a custom dana 44 built for the front. Then order up one of Herm's 30 spline rear 44 kits. Does anyone know who is making the axle shafts for him?

 

If it where me, I would run a dana 20 transfer case with low gears. The dana 20 is so much quieter when in two wheel drive. And, the main shaft will last a lot longer because you are not turning it when in two wheel drive.

 

Fisherman,
As you know the M715 came with the centered rear diff and off-set xfer and it has no double joints from the factory and no vibration. How long is the rear drive line going to be? You maybe be fine with a CJ6.

By the way you going to make the snow run next month with your M715?

 

Hey Kevin, You bet I'll make the snow run, if we get any. Otherwise it will just be a run. Sounds like everyone will be meeting here at my place. I hope they are not Dutchman, as I know someone who has broken a couple dutchman axles. I already have a built dana 18 with new overdrive and tera low 3.15 low gearsets. I don't want to run a twenty now at this point. I may just do a full floater kit in my stock rear dana 44 and get a axle housing cut down for the front. In the mean time I'll be busy soon boxing my frame. Thanks everyone.

 

I did this .I used scout II d 44s But i had to change t case to a center output.You can use a 20 or a 300.What tranny are you using? I went to a SM 420 with a adaptor to a 300.You cant run an offset to a center pinion. It will bind.As for the turning radius I switched the drag link with the tierod to get the radius back.I drilled out the knuckles from a taper to a straight hole and went to heim joints.It works great.Dont get discouraged.Stick with your project.it takes alot of time.If you want i can post some close up pics. The can has just tipped over and the worms are getting out.

 

Looks like yours is spring over? I would like to see some pictures. If I just pony up and buy an axle housing for the front I can keep both passenger side drop diff's. That was what I was originally going to do with a dana 30. I think I'll probably spend the money and go with gusto, do it right the first time.

 

Hey Todd, Nick, Kevin!

I broke a dutchman FF short side on it's first run at the Rubicon. I got hooked up hard on that tire in a fully loaded CJ-5. Sounded like a rifle. The remaining 20 miles was grueling with PS that failed also. Dutchman said they don't warranty anything under 35 spline. They were not very nice about it. The attitude is why I won't buy from them again. Todd as we discussed the R@P housing and alloy shafts will live a long time and serve you well. They build good stuff. Work with them on getting the tubes in right so your pinion angle is decent with the springs you are using.

Do I get to wire your CJ-6? heh heh...

Nick it would be good to catch up.

Kevin, I didn't realize you had a baby jeep. We should hit the Tilly soon. Our club will have it's monthly run soon. Let me know if you want to go.

Happy holidays!

 

Hey AL! Good to see you back here. We do need to catch up! Will pm you my #. Sorry it's been so long. Life has gotten in the way yet again....

 

Hey Al, you most certainly will get the first call when it comes to wiring. Can I go on the wheeling run as a passenger? I'll drive down to go. Can't wait for the 6, the ball is starting to roll.