Looking at a 73 CJ5

2-5 :iagree: WHOLE HEARTEDY!!! As someone who has rolled and repaired a CJ, I can tell you body and frame work is REALLY REALLY REALLY expensive compared to mechanical.....I would take a good frame and decent body with a shot engine over the other way around....just a thought. Can you get pics? We'd love to see it!

 

Go through the brakes immediately. It is 35 years ols, so expect to have to fix just about everything at some point.

 

The brakes dont move. as in the pedal is stuck right where it sits. about half way down. The ole girl needs 4 body mounts for sure. otehr then that its getting cleaned up and cleaned out. new oil in the motor tonight, new filter, new plugs and rotor and cap.Next is to look at the wireing and then get her running.

 

with regards to the rust... i test drove a cj5 that spent time up in alaska (before i found the one i did buy). rust was all over body, no major holes, but it was there. frame and suspension looked great. i test drove it up a hill/fire trail in his back yard. when we came back, the body was sitting crooked. APPARENTLY, half of more of the body mounts blew out from just hitting a couple small bumps. this is bad. good investment if i wanted a WHOLE NEW TUB.

i also want to stress what was said about frame earlier. look for those cracks, twists, wrinkles...they only get worse. i feel a clean straight frame is nearly priceless.

good luck with the project if you pick it up.

 

The frame is in great shape. I looked hard for cracks. I wire brushed a LOT of the frame looking to tell tale lines. Nothing. Tomorrow i head in for a new oil filter and plug wires. I have everything else here for it. Once the wife goes to bed at 10 pm i will change the diff , tranny and t case oils.

 

And yes, in case you haven't figured it out, I have turned the ressurection of this poor tired girl over to Tiredcj6. She'll run again, this girl!

 

I recently started restoring a '73 with a 232. Girlfriend inherited it from her grandfather. tuned up every year until 2002, garaged every day of its life. Minor rust only so far. Had driving in two days. Now for the good stuff: the shop tuning it up every has completely screwed (removed/added vacuum lines and applied screws to open ends) the vacuum system and there is no air pump or EGR valve. Questions: 1. did all 232s have an egr and /or air pump, I can find no place on the manifold where an EGR ever was or could be, and likewise for the air pump. 2. Does any one have PHOTOS of a correct original vacuum system for the 232, that I can use to compare/contrast the ingenious vacuum system done by the shop? 3. Any ideas on where to find a working vapor canister and a washer fluid reservoir (pump works, tank smashed)? 4. This jeep has the classic implement type bumper, does the fuel tank have to be removed to remove the two bolts per side on the frame, or are the bolts welded into the frame. 5. Is it appropriate for this jeep to have a jerry can holder, if so where should it be located (it already has spare tire rack and original spare).

I know this is long winded, but I am at wit's-end, and finally discovered your web-site.

To the guy changing all his fluids, make sure you grow an extra arm before you tackle the transmission, I wish I had.

Thanks in advance for the help

PS - also has orginal half cab in excellent condition

 

You need to consult a Jeep FSM (factory service manual). for 1973. Emissions systems changed almost every year, and the devices used depend on the year, model, and equipment. There is a '72 manual online, but the systems changed a lot from '72 to '73.

The FSM will have a description of the plumbing for each applicable device. To get a photo of the plumbing, you'd have to find another member with the same year and engine and delivery (ie 49 states or CA) as yours.

I don't know where to find an exact replacement for either, but the vapor can is a Delco commodity item AFAIK, and you should be able to use one that has the same number of taps. The main difference between the early ('73 era) and later ones is the valve in the top of the canister. Early ones use the (very small) vacuum created by the connection to the air cleaner snout to draw the fumes out of the container. There is also a connection to the tank, so two taps IIRC (there may also be a connection to the carb bowl vent). Later canisters actively shut off the vent canister from the atmosphere when the engine is off using the manifold vacuum. As long as you can find one of the early type, it should work fine.

I think they are not welded. Have you tried to turn the bolts? I expect they were held on the back with a couple of fingers and snugged up with an impact originally. You may be able to spin them off with an impact now, or maybe not. Dropping the tank isn't that hard if you have to.

I wouldn't carry one. I don't think they are safe in a collision. Jeeps never came from the factory with jerry cans or jerry can racks.

Welcome from Boston!

Mods - new thread for this?

 

Thanks for the quick response! Just finished replacing spring eye bushings, so we decided to take a ride and check for damage from Fay. Turned out to be a bad idea, as the carb decided to go out. I'm currently in the process of running the fault down. I guess Murphy decided to get me since I said all was fine when I wrote my post.

Found the manual at Turner 4wd, unless someone can come up with one.

Thanks again for the help.

-73s