Removing a T-90

I suspect this subject has been discussed here before so maybe someone can point me to a past posting. I searched and could not find anything. The T-90 in my ’62 CJ5 slips out of second gear when going down hill or decelerating. So after looking at Rick Stivers rebuilding guide I am encouraged to pull it and rebuild. One thing Rick does not cover is removal and installation into the vehicle. I have some questions:

Can I get it out (safely) without a transmission jack?
Can I get it out and back in by myself?
If so, any tips for a one-man team?
Do I have to remove all the floor access panels (mine are ‘bed liner-ed’ in)?
Can the transfer case be removed before removing the trany – is that a good idea?

Thanks for any help

 

Honestly, for the sake of safety and to make it easy, I'd use a tranny jack. I've swapped this stuff out of full size trucks using "other" methods, but after using a tranny jack to do it by myself I don't think I'll ever do it any other way. Of course the tranny/t-case from a truck weighs about 3 times what a T90/Spicer 18 weigh. Still, if you really are going to do all this by yourself, a tranny jack is like having 4 extra hand there. If you can get help, there are other things you can do, but alone...give me the tranny jack. Others may have other opinions...

Don't know if you can get them out with the floor panels in place, but I can you can bet it's a whole lot easier with them out.

Oh, and if it's popping out of gear, there's a good chance you'll need to replace the gear itself and the slider in addition to the synchro ring...

Cheers,
Scott

 

I'm going to be doing the same thing soon. I got a transmission jack at harbor freight.

 

I removed and reinstalled a T-90 and transfer case once by myself without a transmission jack. I would highly recommend using the transmission jack.

 

Just weighed my D18 and T90 before I put them together and onto my frame, and both weighed right at 65 lbs. I'd pull one at a time, securing them firmly at each stage, don't want you getting crushed.
Also, remove the shift levers from the D18 and the shift tower from the T90, will make it go easier.
Don't forget to drain it all as well...

 

I too have done them (actually a T-14 - the T-90 is smaller - and D20) on my driveway without a jack - one at a time. I put the factory scissors jack under the bellhousing to support the back end of the engine.

Back when I was young and strong though

 

This jack looks like it has a chance of working. Stay away from their xmission jack adapter that mounts onto a floor jack, though. I tried one of those years ago to pull a 1/2 ton truck tranny and I couldn't get it low enough to clear the frame. I agree, use a floor jack or the tranny jack like the one pictured. It's a lot safer than the way we used to do it before floor jacks became affordable. (slide the tranny/xfer case assembly under the jeep on your chest. Loop a rope around the bottom of the steering column, under the assembly, and up through the floor that a buddy holds, for vertical adjustment. Lift the assembly off your chest and start it into the hole. With much cussing, both guys wiggle the assembly until it slides all the way in. This assumes you have the clutch plate aligned to begin with. Otherwise, you reverse the above procedure, pull it out, align the clutch plate, and repeat until it finally goes in. Ahh, the good old days!) Yep, use some type of floor jack.

tommy b

 

I have a quick question on the same topic.... is it possible to pull the tranny and t-case with a jack (transmission or floor) on a gravel driveway, or am I going to have to find a hard surface to do this on? I'm hopefully pulling everything for a rebuild this weekend and have never pulled a transmission before. I'm wicked nervous! The rebuild guide has me confident that I can safely rebuild everything, but I've never seen the steps to getting the drivetrain pulled off the jeep

 

he was in T90 school Sparky....