rear full floater

I am in the process of rounding up the necessary pisces for a rear full floater in my 64 cj5. I will be using the stock 44 rear, dana 25 spindles, bearing hubs and 10 inch brakes. I am however not wanting the lockout hubs on the rear. Has anyone just had a full floater axle made for this? I think I read that I have to use dana 27 spindles. The line up needs to be machined down some I think to fit in the axle tube. Am I missing anything? I will post some pics of the jeep. It is now painted, with 32x9.50x15 swampers. Thanks all!

 

I'd think you could use the factory flanges. Hubs are made to replace the flanges. No Jeep came from the factory with locking hubs prior to about 1975, so there should be plenty of flanges around.

There's an article on the ECJ5 tech pages about this...

 

Doesn't matter whether you use 25 or 27 spindles. They are the same and yes they must be machined down. If the have the outer end of the axle machined to 27 spline it is stronger than 10 spline and you can use 27 spline drive flanges. These were used on Quadratrac equipped CJ-7's and also CJ's from '72 up that didn't come with locking hubs. They are available new from Crown Automotive dealers if you can't find used ones. Read the write up as it gives tons of information. Nickmil

 

I have thought about doing a full floater this way for awhile. For the axle, I was thinking of using a flanged axle out of any late model Dana 44, cut down the flange to the diameter of the hub and then drill holes to bolt the axle to the hub and then cut down the axle and spline it to what ever you want. Is this not how the early military axles go in and how full floaters are done on Dana 60 axles? As a matter of fact Dana 60 full floating axles are the same size as Dana 44’s. At, least the ones I pulled out of a Dana 60 I had. Anyone see a flaw in my idea?

 

Exactally my plan. Find a set of donor axles and have the flange cut down and drilled. The other end can be splined to fit in the diff. No need for the seal in the axle tube, the bearings would be lubed by gear oil. Just remember to weld up the weep hole on the top of the axle, replace the grease fitting with a plug, and drill axle tube for a vent hose. Thats how I see it going anyways.

 

I had mine custom made with the flanges on them by dutchman motorsports. been a few years but it ran about $300.
http://www.dutchmanms.com/

 

Be aware than many axles, especially stock ff axle shafts, neck down to a smaller diameter than the diameter needed for the splines, so make sure the length and diameter is such that where the shaft needs resplining is the correct dimensions. Dutchman will build the shafts if you give them the dimensions. If you don't have the dimensions, and I mean accurate, not approximate, they won't. I live down the road from them and have my shafts built by them. Last set of ff axles, splined on both ends, not flanged, was about $450. Flanged ff axles are more expensive generally.Nickmil

 

several. buy the time/money spent on cutting down axle shafts, you can have new ones made. the hub has to be LARGER on a full float, because the bearings ride in the hub, rather than the axle tube. the only advantages to a full float over the 3/4 (flanged) are the bearings are easier to repack in grease, and should you break and axle, and you can still move the jeep since the wheel won't fall off. The disadvantages are, limited wheel choice (has to clear BIG hub), what breaks next, since you no longer have the 'give' in the axle, driveshafts, transfer cases?

 

:?
you use the same wheels, that's not an issue; any regular Jeep wheel fits. You use a front wheel hub in the rear.
You can still break an axle, there are no guarantees.
You can still break something else in the drivetrain, that doesn't change a thing.

The two big advantages are the ease of flat towing (using locking hubs) and the wheel won't fall off if you break an axle.

I don't see any disadvantage to having or using a full float rear axle.

 

X2. If there were any major disadvantages other than a little more maintenance I wouldn't have them on 3 of my Jeeps......
Nickmil

 

Imay suggest going with a late model Dana 30 front spindle that was set up for disk brakes. Unlike the Dana 25 and 27 spindles, the 1982 to 1986 (I think) Dana 30 spindles steped up in thickess towards the rear where the inside bearing resides. This added thickness equates to added strength, which could be nice particularly since you will need to machine the inside of the spindle down.

 

Absolutely correct. However the years were '78 up to '86. I believe '77 discs were an option and may have them also. Jpflat2a, Lynn, or someone can probably confirm the actual year discs started and what years it was an option. Just opens up more years to look at.

There are other options as well like using an early Chev front spindle and using a Ford hub and rotor to utilize an internal spline locking hub which is stronger and then a GM caliper and bracket. There are lots of ways of doing this. Nickmil

 

Will have the brake hoses in the morning. Then just install and bleed. I removed my locking hubs and installed drive flanges in front. With the little bit of hiway driving I do, they should work well for me. I hope. Unless anyone has had bad luck with them. Please advise. I appreciate everyone taking the time to answer my questions. I could not do this axle conversion without your help. to all helping me out. Brian

 

Holy cow! I just drove my jeep with the 11 inch brakes on front. This thing stops really good. I recommend it to all 9 inch brake owners. By far the best upgrade yet. When I finish the rear full floater, I will install 10 inch rear brakes. A big thanks to everyone who has helped me. I am very greatful. Brian