Rochester Rebuild

I disasembled my carb tonight and got everything cleaned real good. I'm planning on rebuilding tommorrow. The instructions in my rebuild kit show a ball retainer for the aluminum ball that goes under the plunger pump. I didnt see one when I took mine apart. The manual doesnt appear to list one either.

Is this a missing part or should I just drop the small aluminium ball in place followed by the spring then the plunger?

 

The spring that goes under acclerator holds that ball in.There is an aluminum retainer that looks like a T for the other ball by the squirters.

 

Thanks for the info. Is there a washer or anything that goes under the spring? I didnt notice one when I took it apart, but the instructions that came with the NAPA rebuild kit shows one. (i think, the illustration is small)

 

If you got a marine bowl gasket in the rebuild kit, use it. It will be the one that covers the entire float bowl leaving only a cut out for the float needle and seat assy. They work better off-road with that gasket.

 

Thanks for all the tips. I got the carb put back together and installed yesterday and the jeep started right up. The problem i'm having is it seems to run very rich. The only way i can keep is running is to back the idle mixture screws out about 3 turns. This is the problem I was having before I rebuilt the carb. What should I try next?

 

you need a vacuum gauge to adjust the carb (an exhaust sniffer is better, but alot more $$$$). hook the gauge to a port on the manifold, start with the mixture screws out 1 1/4 turns from bottom. Adjust the mixture screws until you get the most vacuum you can get (somewhere between 16-20 inches). per the factory manual.

 

The problem I'm having is I cant keep it ideling with the screws set in that far. To get it to idle they are out about three turns. I'll try it again with the vacuum gauge attached.

 

I just recheck the timing and it was a bit retarded. I set it to 5 degrees BTDC.

Other than running rich, it worked fine before the carb rebuild. I'm also wondering about plug wires, coil etc after reading many posts. I just ordered a new set of wires today. How can you test the coil?

 

I was reading some other post from the search section. I am wondering if my float adjustment might be off. My question is, if the carb is running rich could the float have some thing to do with that and if so in which direction should it be readjusted? Less float drop or more?

 

I did reset the float levels during the rebuild, but I thought maybe I had gottten them wrong. My manifold preasue at idle is 17 but the needle does moves rapidly back and forth either side of 17. I have sprayed carb cleaner all around the carb and the manifold and I don't get any change in RPM. The only spot that is hard to reach and spray at is the firewall side of the manifold.

I have been wondering about a vacuum leak. Is changing the intake manifold gasket difficult?

 

It bounces rapidly 15" to 18" I didnt try spraying the carb cleaner with the vacuum guage connected. I'll try that tonight. Sparky, should I leave the float alone and trust that I got it right the first time?

 

I got the vacuum guage out again tonight and at idle with the screws out around three turns I get 17 to 19 inches. I adjusted the mixture screws and the engine smoothed out when the vacuum got near 18 to 19.

The problem now is when driving. It accelerates smoothly, but is jerky or intermittent at speed when you hold the throtle steady. Any ideas?

 

Thanks, I give that a try. The tank, fuel lines and filter are all brand new. The carb was very clean when I rebuilt it. Is the float drop to low or the initial (inverted) measurement?