Which is better?

What would be better and limited slip for the rear or a trac-loc for the front?

 

both,no seriously imho if i had open diffs in both i would work on the rear first

 

It's funny but I spoke w/ a retired guy from Dana and he was there when the jeeps first came in for testing, as in MA, Bantam, and GP. I asked about limited slips and he said that they sent some over for testing to the pacific theater during the war. Said that they had them in the front. They reasoned that if you needed more traction you would then put it in 4WD and have a locked front but when out of 4WD you could still get good road manners due to the open rear. He said that pulling was more efficient than pushing but I don't know if they knew that back then like they do now.

 

Conventional location for a single LSD is in the rear. Trac-lock is a LSD. The factory only supplied them as an option for the rear axle. When you go uphill, the weight transfers to the rear and that's where the most traction comes from. Typically you need the most traction going up, since you are lifting as well as pushing the vehicle. On the level going forward, weight still transfers to the rear, but more static weight is on the front axle, so then ... it depends.

Plus, there can be driveability issues in 4WD with a LSD in the front. Driveability issues for the rear LSD too, but not as severe and only in slippery conditions.

 

Everything you read about traction adding differentials says a unit in the rear gains you about 70% of what you would get running both. Do the rear first, and if you need more, then do the front. I have a LockRight in the back of my MB, and it makes a significant difference offroad. I highly recommend it as a mod.

I have a 10 spline LockRight in my M38A1's Dana 44 as well. No offroad seat time yeat to give you feedback on, but my experience with the MB convinced me to shell out the coin again.

 

If you play in mud the front makes a certain amount of sence.

But if you climb then the back is best.

 

I have had a lot of experience with different combos, front locked/rear open, front open/rear locked, open/open, locked/locked, etc. There are a lot of factors to consider. Some:

What kind of vehicle (weight, wheelbase, power steering to name three)
Intended use (lots of street, lots of off road, inbetween, etc)
Time and money (lockrights can be had easier and cheaper than detroits)

I put a locker in the front of CJ with a rear tracloc that was wore out, meaning it did nothing. My climbing ability was GREATLY improved. I don't buy into the front locker not helping climbing, personal experience. But any hope of driving it on patchy snow/ice highways at freeway speeds in 4wd pretty much out the window. Now, solid snow cover at in-town speeds no problem, but you still feel it.

I had a Chevy 3/4 pickup (axles now in Blazer) rear locker front open. Mudded for years, and never thought I needed more. Put in a front locker and was still amazed at what I had been missing. Even with a rear locker NO drivability problems out of a fullsize and rear locker, but add the front, WHEW. Again freeway 4wd probably a no go, but not as bad as a shorter wheelbase.

My CJ5 has lockers front and rear. You definitely feel the rear just driving around the block. By this time I was so used to driving with lockers that I don't even notice it at higher speeds, talking about the rear. The front, WHEW, love the traction but no power steering makes a day of off road a workout. But I love the traction, my tires are my limiting factor off road (30s).

Something to take away: Front lockers may be better off as a selectable (arb, ox) IF you do major street time. Again those variables. Or be prepared to run in 2wd, that's why you have lockout hubs.

I am rebuilding my CJ7 this summer (see signature) and went with OX rear (for max traction and good street manners) and a detroit up front (cheaper than a selectable, no hoses or cables to mess with, Traction with a capital T, and I can always unlock the hubs on the freeway.

My 2 cents.

 

Two more things. You specifically mentioned trac loks. Don't waste your money. At about 60,000 miles it will be doing nothing. Best limited slip for my money is the truetrac.

I recently pulled out a lockright from my dana 30 in the 83 CJ7, to install a front 44. The locker had been in about 9 years and saw a lot of use with 4.0ho engine and 32" tires. It looks like new. I wouldn't shy away from one from a durability standpoint. If going that route, a new cross shaft is a good idea, for a while 4wd hardware was offering a new "zytanium" shaft with there lockrites, not sure if they still do. Also a new roll pin to secure the shaft is a must, but that is a separate story!!

 

I know you could get powerlocks front and rear as that is the way my CJ5 came in 1962. Still has the tags on the diffs. Not sure about Trac locks, You may be right there.

 

sorry about the confusion, i ment lock-rite for the front not trac-loc. Maybe i should stop posting so late! thanks for all the info/input so far.