rewiring with forethought

I'm getting parts and tools rounded up to rewire my '74. I received the Kwikwire 14 STHD harness several weeks ago. I have about three weeks before I have the time to do it so I can mail order items if needed. I'll be ordering new gauges. Volts, oil press. and water temp and probably fuel. Jeep gauges seem to problematic
A friend suggested some real nice crimpers, the type that make a rolled crimp, and extra connectors, shrink wrap and other sundries. Are there any tools or handy items that you experienced guys have to suggest? I know I've gotten right in the middle of a project and had it be either heaven or hell for lack of one small item or tool.
My plan is to remove the dash and replace it with an aluminum tread plate that I have and to remove the steering column get that squeaking bearing dealt with.
Any ideas would be welcome. T.I.A.

 

Don't crimp. Solder connections if possible and shrink wrap them. Makes for a smaller bundle and cleaner appearance. Plus you will have a lot less problems with wiring down the road.

Are you using stock guages? Or aftermarket?

 

Aftermarket gauges, mechanical water and oil pressure. Who makes a reliable fuel gauge?

 

Get one of the little hand held propane torches at Lowes. You can use it for both soldering and shrink wrap. About $19 if I remember correctly. Works really well. Might consider an electric heat gun ($19 at Harbor Freight) for shrink wrap although the propane torch works well.

 

I use a small butane torch that is normally used for cooking (creme brule torch). Works great for soldering and for shrink wrap.

 

A GOOD QUALITY wire stripper tool sure helps out. Small ( 3/8" ?? ) wire loom is sometimes hard to find but cheap and good to have on hand. Rubber grommets for firewall, ring ( not spade ) connectors, zip ties etc also good to have.

Edit: You might want to make a mock up dash out of cardboard and play with the gauges, radio, switch, etc locations. If I could do mine over again, Id spend the money for " lighted " toggle switches for my various accessories.

 

http://www.hudsonhawk.net/jeep/jeepmain.htm
Click on the DASH button. There is information on how I did mine. It might help you in your work.

 

Nice job. Great example of do it once and do it right.

 

auto-matic wire strippers will speed things up also.

 

I had a schematic of a custom harness design and bilt by CJ Joe (member) somewhere. It really made sense to me and seemed to have ALL the bells and whistles included. If your interested, contact Joe via PM. I'll look for the PDF I had. I know I have the autocad dwg of the thing somewhere.

b.

 

I'm wondering about this too: I need to replace my temp gauge, and would like to also replace my fuel and oil pressure gauges too.

What are the best aftermarket gauges to go with? The easiest to install with a stock harness? The most durable/reliable?

 

Autometer would be and actually is my choice for gauges that are good looking and durable.

 

The best thing that I can recommend is heat shrink tubing with an adhesive liner that melts and makes a water tigh seal. These guys sell it by the foot.

 

i was trying to remember the same thing. now you've gone and made me wonder whether i was really remembering it, or whether it was suggested by your post. thanks, mike. R)

 

I seem to remember it having to do with vibration, but if you crimp, solder and heat shrink it can't move anyway. A loose crimp can be a bugger to find. A broken wire is much easier to find. I do the above to everything. Hard to get corrosion between the wire and connector when it's full of solder.

Paul

 

Well if your gonna crimp use good butt splices like these:
These are high temp units that are rated to 900*F and are nickle plated steel. These very rarely slip and in most cases if you use a good crimping tool like Klein's
you can't pull them apart if you want to. Just slip shrink tube over them before starting.

 

IF the crimp is done with a proper tool and done right, it's supposed to be a better connection than soldering. IMO you can do either and it will be fine.

The argument against soldering states that the wire is more likely to break off at the joint - the bending force is more concentrated at the solder joint. Copper will fatigue and break if flexed enough times.

My preference would be to use an uninsulated butt connector with a good crimper, and then cover it with adhesive-lined shrink tubing. You need a heat gun to do that best. http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/...icsesm_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html

<edit> Simultaneous post to Mike's - JMO the generic butt splices from Mouser et al are fine, but the Klein crimping tool would be a good investment - Klein is a good brand.

 

I'll have to see what crimper my friend has, he says in makes a roll crimp. I suppose the crimp is like a inward tuck lengthwise. The gauges will be indash 2 1/16" rather than d!cking around with the speedo cluster.

I just don't wanna stick my head under the dash anymore!

Thanks for the pointers, Art

 

CJjunk.....I feel your pain. The CJ's are incredibly hard to work on under the dash. NO room and seats/gearshift/transfer case/heater box/etc are all in the way. You have to be a contorsionist to get back there and you're liable to knock something else loose.

HudsonHawk....that has got to be the cleanest dash/gauge setup I have ever seen. Congratulations on a beautiful layout !

I haven't had too much experience with electrical set-ups; just enough to be dangerous ! My only suggestions are use quality wire (marine if available), heavy enough gauge and I recommend the crimp with uninsulated connectors, solder and heat shrink all connections. The Klein crimper is a great tool and Lowe's sells them. For a good primer on connections check out :

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/tb-1.shtml

This is a great website, but almost impossible to reach Mark to order. Just keep trying and you'll get through. Remember he's on the west coast.......


I also went one step furthur and labeled all my wiring in case I have to go back under there. Just took a few minutes with a label maker and will definately hel later down the road....