Double Cardan Rear Propellor Shaft

I don't think the misalignment is as extreme as the picture shows. There is quite a bit of flop in the "yoke" to one side without the centering ball. I have seen worse.
The flanged yoke for a double cardan is most likely not available. You could lose the parking brake and go to intermediate style parking brakes. It looks like you have plenty of options.

 

I think that's a great idea.
You'll need to keep the bows from the other trailer. then build a bench over one side of the bed and you have a nice little camper. Perfect for the fall reunion.

 

An interesting coincidence concerning the Bantam trailer.
The bed measures 38” x 72”.
That’s exactly the same size as a normal twin mattress.
Yes a custom made canvas roof for the trailer bed to be stretched over wooden bows like the originals.
That will make for a very comfy camper.
Wondering if I should swap to early Willys pickup fenders on the rear so I have flat spots to set up my camp stove.

 

I, for one, would love to see that build.

 

x2.

 

Thought things through long and hard.
Building a 3A with a Kelly half cab and a full 6’ Bantam bed is certainly do-able.
But honestly I’m not fully sold on the “looks” of such a narrow long CJ.
Here’s the closest I have found: https://topclassiccarsforsale.com/willys/614976-1947-cj-2a-willys-truck.html

I would have to stretch the wheelbase to at least 116” or at most to 118”.
Wheelbase at 118” is the same as a normal Willys pickup. Seems it might make more sense to just build a Willys truck at that rate.

I have this present 3A build near ready to put a body on it. To install conventional rear propeller shaft at this point would require major changes.
Transfer case, both axles and complete suspension too. Half the present build would need to be swapped around.
I searched online to see if a centering flange could be found to fit a Bendix park brake companion flange with none to be found.
So as a last effort I decided to give Woods a call to see if a double cardan propeller shaft could be fitted.
I was VERY surprised that he could build one that bolts straight onto the parking brake companion flange. It will have a centering yoke that attaches direct to the the 2” X 2.375” companion flange.
After searching; I fully did not expect to find a centering yoke to fit that old style of companion flange.
So it looks like my original idea for this build is still valid.
It will save me lots of time and grief to continue with my original plan for this build. I am not used to farming out anything on my builds but this solution saves me so much work I will gladly make an exception.

Apparently the custom propellor shaft comes with an option. Greasable or non greasable joints. I am leaning to ward the greasable Spicer 5-153 X joints.

 

I put off getting a Tom Woods custom propeller shaft,
He said he could make one that would bolt direct onto my D20 parking brake companion flange.

The other day I bought another T18.
It came from a late 1970’s J20 truck.
Attached to the T18 was a D20 and a J20 front propeller shaft.
Just so happened to be a “double cardan” so called “constant velocity” drive shaft.

After completely rebuilding the T18 I was looking for more jeep entertainment.
Got to looking at the double cardan and before long I had it all apart looking over the details of how it works.
I immediately noticed that the shaft end with the centering ball cannot be attached to a companion flange.
But realized I could use the yoke attached to the front of the D20 in lieu of the park brake companion flange.
Upon further thought and inspection I realized two important things.
A D20 having both parking brake assembly plus a double cardan would be a LOT of weight hanging off the rear bearing cap.
Secondly I realized that removing the park brake assembly from my short wheelbase Jeep and going with a typical rear output bearing cap and yoke will lengthen my rear propellor shaft by 7/8”.
So I have decided to try and build my own double cardan system by shortening the J20 front propellor shaft.
One thing leads to another.
Since I will be removing the D20 park brake I will need to change out my rear backing plates so I can use them for cable operated wheel brakes.
No problem because I already have s set of rear backing plates with park braking access.
They have been setting on the shelf for 3 years waiting to be assembled.
And have yet to put any fluid into the complete new brake system.
Here’s a pic of my brakes waiting to be assembled.


Here is a pic of my old homade double cardan prop shaft less having the required centering ball.
Along with my disassembled J20 shaft being readied for welding after I figure out the exact length.


In the meantime I will need to remove the complete parking brake assembly from my Jeep. And so I pulled the standard rear output bearing cap off the D20 to use in place of the special D20 rear bearing cap that’s designed for parking brake drums.

 

Let us know how it works out. I have also been eyeing a front drive shaft I have from an old 4x4 F-250 truck. It too has a double cardan joint and 1310 u-joints. Just needs shortened a bit. .

 

Apparently I have a need to do it all by myself.
For the past 45 years I have never farmed out anything other than engine machine work.

I have shortened rear and elongated front shafts every time I have installed a T98 or T18.
Carefully cut the tube off from the shorter end if possible. Trim it up.
Figure your new length and press the tube back onto the stub end.
The snug light press fit will go a long way toward getting it true.
Spin test the assembly for alignment before welding it back together. I leave a nice gap then stick weld it.
Willys never balanced there propellers so I don’t bother with that either. I just don’t have that kinda equipment.
If my Jeep ever runs so fast that I can feel vibration then maybe I’ll farm some work out.

 

Another source for 1310 double cardans is XJ's.

 

My DC came from the front of a ford explorer matched with the back half from the rear of an Isuzu rodeo. Splines are identical.

http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/116011/page-23#post-1455886

 

Take a look at my J20 donor drive shaft.
Note the small diameter tube compared to the large diameter tube I was previously thinking I could use.
Of course the small tube has a thicker wall than a large diameter tube.
Anyway I will still need to trim some off the length but have to cross my fingers hoping the small tube will be strong behind a Dauntless /T18.

 

I've had a shortened front J10 shaft with DC in the back of my 3A since about 2005. No issues with it.

 

Jeepermc sounds positive !
What engine and how low are your transmission gears ?
Slow progress today. I did get the 11” backing plates changed over so now I can plan on wheel type parking brakes.

 

More slow progress..
Removed the special rear bearing cap and replaced with a standard D20 rear output/bearing cap along with a special yoke that can bolt direct up to the double cardan centering ball. This change will allow a slightly longer rear propeller shaft and it will take additional weight off the rear output bearings. I figure the rear output will be working hard enough with a double cardan hanging off the end.

 

May I ask where did you source the special yoke to fit the dana 20 output shaft?

 

Originally the D20 propeller shaft parking brakes were mainly used on the 1960’s gladiator pickups.
I bought this one as Jeep nos several years ago.
I pieced it together using the drum and associated parts from a D18.
The special half of the centering yoke as shown in the pic was bolted on the front of a late 1970’s j20 transfer case.

 

Advanced adapters sells a D18/20 output yoke for 1310 CV joint.

 

Ah, thankyou. I am about to finally get around to the install of my ol-man-emu YJ springs under my 74. Likely I will need a double cardan joint rear shaft when I do.

 

The 10 spline version of that yoke is Spicer 2-4-4061X. Those are a bit difficult to come by these days but Neapco makes a quality version, N2-4-4061X. Tom Woods number for that is EY-10ZCV131. I think the only difference from the normal 10 spline yoke is the machining for the double cardan bolt head seats.