Fino's 58 Wagon

I was just about to ask about this technique...I will probably try this - 50-50 I eff it up, but they say learning is priceless....

 

This is a good start...made from a single piece of carboard - so in theory, no welded joints, just bends that I would weld up the inside, but TBD if i can really bend the 3/16".





The front of the pan is still TBD - the current test piece has a flat front with square bottom edge that is not the most 'slide-y'. But that edge is reasonably high - as in its somewhat protected behind the rear axle. I will probably try making a 2nd version with a more sloped front and something like a 45 angle (although the rise vs run may require more like 50 degrees)....this potentially could also complicate the mounting to the round bar.
As for round bar mounting - I think mounting directly along the bottom of the round bar can work. Drill in 4 holes and try to either tap or weld inserts (no idea how thick that tube is - guessing its 3/16" at most?). Putting u-bolts over the bar is also doable....no matter the method, trying to made flat 2-D surface to the round bar is going to be a be rough on the aesthetics (for some reason I am worried about what it would like like under there?). Maybe a 'saddle' with the u-bolt would be nice - but unnecessary complications?

 

Here's the next version...upslope in the front up to the round cross member....if I don't want the side angle on the back portion, I could do this with only one bend. The tank sides get a bit of extra protection with the sides bent up, and if I was using thinner plate, it would help with rigidity...but not sure it's gonna matter with 3/16".




I took the front edge to the front of the cross member to make access to the fastening hardware a bit easier. Also means any frontal contact would be pushing the skid into the bar and not pulling it against the hardware.... Still debating on drilling into the tube vs using a u bolt set up.

 

It'll have a gusset on the driver side edge....no room on the passenger edge as it has to be cut around some other stuff....A gusset in the middle might be doable. On the flip side - it'll be hard to hit (especially on the passenger side) as its blocked by the differential, and its 3/16 not 1/8", and its not a huge wide/long piece....its 8-9" of slope and another 15 flat back to the rear mount (and about 32" wide at the widest in the rear), and trying to add some vertical edges on the rear section to add some additional strength. Is it indestructible? no, but its already kind of overkill for what it is - its more HD than anything i have on the cj. This forum should change its name to the overbuild **** forum....

 

Making progress....this is more cutting than bending, but it makes a nice looking bend on the outside edge and it's set up nicely to weld the inside corner. What is not pictured is Jen sitting on the sandbags to help give a bit more table weight.

 

As I try to finish up making the skid plate....still thinking about the best way to mount the front edge.
The 'simplest' - or maybe just most straight forward? - is to mount it directly into the round cross-member.


There is some aspect about this mount that I don't love - but not sure why it seems a bit off. Might be that I am concerned about drilling and welding thread inserts (while laying under the vehicle with poor access and visibility) into that tube and keeping the thread inserts aligned properly without a flat surface for reference. The only other option (and not that its better), would be to put some sort of mount directly to the frame rails at the front corners of the plate. Of course, this would be a lot less rigid without the front edge hard mounted the entire way across. I could probably partially compensate for that by running the frame rail mount (probably some angle iron) all the way across along the front edge.

 

I'll spend more time trying to make it temporary than just doing it the final way the first time. Plus, the angle of the bend is dependent on how/where the front is mounted...so it all fits together in design. Now using ubolts around the tube is not out of the question, but I like the idea that if the front of the skid is solidly mounted, it might help reinforce the hitch.

 

Don't know if I can explain these two alternative mounts clearly...
1) basically, the front slope is going to be around 45 degrees if mounted behind the cross tube, and I could use some angle iron like this and weld it to the skid:


That also makes the bottom of side of the angle flat and can be easily mounted to the frame rail (larger footprint and backing plate needed at mount):
It's about 44" between the framerails, 28 of which is reinforced with the front of the skid plate. That leaves about 8" on each side for the angle to bridge to the framerail.


2) second option might be a bit cleaner and stronger....but...weld some angle onto the tube.


The angle would be pre fitted, drilled and have thread inserts welded prior to welding to crosstube.the bottom of the angle would definitely be a bit of a rust trap - maybe drill some drain holes in it.

 

okay - about ready to paint this and be done with this project...
started with this:


cut and bent it up to this - I could weld the seams more - just went with stitch welds to ensure minimal warpage at first, but think its plenty strong:



The bends look really clean from the outside:


Here is the front mount that I welded to the round frame cross-member....



I welded in 3/8-16 threaded inserts from the backside before welding it to the frame. Had to clean up the tube and then sprayed weldable primer to try and protect it a bit as well as on the backside of the bracket. Welding it to the frame was a bit tricky as expected. The angle bracket is only 1/8" and no idea what the round tubing thickness was - guessing its 3/16. My first couple weld attempts were a bit cold, but got better after turning up the heat. Trying to fit me with hood up in there where I could see anything and be able to move my arms enough to move the gun was a PITA as expected. Probably should have dropped the hitch and tank to get better access to the rear side, but I made it work as is. I might be able to get a bit of paint back inside there via the holes....

The back end will mount into the hitch cross-tube....its 1/4" thick and just tapped 3/8-16 thread into it. If it doesn't hold, I can drill it out and weld in inserts from the front side. It looks really clean when installed...if I can get it cleaned up, scuffed up and painted this afternoon, I might be able to install it on Thurs before heading out for a few day river trip....

 

all finished....has to be the worst paint job I've ever done. Tried something new with a quart jug of tractor paint and maybe I needed to use a better brush, or cut it a bit with thinner, but it just glopped on and more brushing made it worse. Anyway, it should be thick and tough and its not particularly visible up under there....




Been messing with the fuel gauge system some more....think I still have a sending unit issue. I got it cleaned and grounded etc, and it registers in the middle of the gauge, but seems the resistance never changes whether its full or empty and thus the gauge always reads the same. But given the resistance I directly measure (66ohms), it should read near empty, and it reads just above half full, so still lots of stuff to chase with that. Can't say I am looking forward to dropping the skid, hitch and tank again. Its never had a functional gauge yet, so I might just go with it for a bit.