1972 Cj5 - T15 Transmission Rebuild

It is looking that way, but rotating assembly was smooth before disassembly on both yokes. Now after re-assembly the front output is spinning nice and smooth. Rear output shaft is great until I start to tighten yoke nut.

Can't understand why it would need more shims, which seems excessive because the Novak kit came with 4 new shims and those are in place as pic shows, but more shims make sense to hold the bearing from being pressed to far in the race?

 

You used new bearings I gather, If so there could be a little difference in the shim pack needed. Also are you using the same yoke? Any chance you might have mixed up and used the front output shaft yoke instead? I don't know if they are similar or not. Just asking.

 

Both yokes are the same part# but I did engrave them before removal so they are back is same position.

All bearings, seals, gaskets and shims are new from the master kit. Bearing numbers matched what was taken out vs. what came in the kit.

I did talk to Novak support today and they recommend that I add additional shims only on the yoke side of speedo gear. I ordered another shim kit and will try that. I am borrowing some pinion shims to try so I can tell if adding more shims will help. Will know tomorrow if pinion shims can be used or if I have to wait for shim kit.

 

SUCCESS!!!!

I added 1.53mm more shims(2) and re-assembled, torqued and housing spins very smooth. End Play at .003 Just for kicks i tested drag weight to get it to turn and it is 23 inch lbs of force to get it moving. Before I had to run a Mack truck on it to move it.

I believe I am all set now with the Dana20. Novak was also very helpful but you guys on here especially Nickmil were awesome and thank you very much.

 

Did you ever get an answer on the end play of the main transmission shaft?
i rebuilt mine about a year ago and am currently trying to install it onto the bell housing. Not going well.
I guess that end play is normal because mine does the same thing. I didn't measure it but when I pull outwards on the main drive gear, it moves enough that the rear bearing retainer moves out a little bit also. I followed the factory service rebuild to the letter, I even bought a shop press to install the main bearings and made that weird U-shaped tool that holds the synchro ring when installing the front input shaft. Everything seemed to go along as directed.
I am guessing that since the transfer case bolts to the back of the trans, it holds all the parts in the right place.
Currently I am trying to get the trans bolted back in. What a job, I'm having alignment issues with the input shaft and clutch disk. The alignment tool they gave me with my Luk clutch kit was for a Toyota. The spline count was fine but the end that goes into the pilot bushing was way too small diameter. I built it up with black tape until it was closer in diameter to the Jeep pilot bushing. I think my next step is to remove the bell housing, push the trans up close and try to install the input shaft into the pilot bushing. I might have to loosen the clutch a little and let the clutch disk realign. I just have a rolling frame so I can work from the top but it's still been a bear.

 

In my limited experience, even the correct alignment tool is a bit “sloppy “.
Maybe try holding the end of the tool up as you tighten the pressure plate and see how the insertion goes.

 

The end play was no longer an issue when the xfer case was bolted to transmission.

If I were you, leave the bell housing off.

1. Use a magnetic degree wheel(harbor freight etc) and check the angle on the back of your block.
2. My trans jack has the ability to tilt front and back. If yours does, you can simply put the degree wheel on the flat mounting section of your trans and get it to match same degree as the block. This ensures your input shaft is going in at same angle as engine.
3. Loosen the pressure plate bolts enough for disc to be free and movable.
4. Slide your trans into the clutch disc and pilot bearing. Will need to wiggle trans a bit to slide into clutch disc
5. Secure/tighten the pressure plate bolts snug.
6. Back out the trans and torque pressure plate bolts to spec.

Your bell housing can now go on the engine or trans which ever way you prefer. I mount the bell housing to engine side first, and then slide the assembly into the clutch and it should be in line with a little jostling/twisting motion of the main shaft to match the clutch disc teeth. Hope this makes sense and helps. By the way, I had the trans and xfer case all together and put it in all at once. That will mostly be dependent on your jacks pad ability size wise to hold the weight.

 

Yes that all makes very good sense. I went and bought a horrible freight trans jack and the only one they had has limited adjustment. Just up and down, roller of course, and a very slight tilt of the pan. When I first tried to put it in I had it hanging from the chain hoist and it's really hard to see what angle it's at. I did put some 1/2 dowels in the bellhousing to try and guide it on and it helped some, but i think aligning it without the bell housing first will tell me where I'm at. Thanks.

 

Subscribed thanks for the information.