Clutch Fork Wear Pattern

I am getting ready to work on my clutch. I have a new LUK clutch kit coming in tomorrow and I know I need to replace the clutch fork because it is worn on the end. Does this wear pattern suggest any other problems or is this just the way they normally wear out? Thanks.

 

It is hard to say what normal wear would be on an old vehicle. Could also be signs of a miss adjusted clutch or seized throw-out bearing.

 

Looks like the replacement forks are still questionable. According to one website, the currently made crown ones have a flaw. I saw another post about that on this site in March. I’m not sure how long that has been going on.

 

You are correct on that. I used the '73 suspended pedals and put in a drum/disc master. For the clutch I used a '76 Landcruiser hydraulic clutch and
Advance Adapters clutch fork. Solid cast iron.

 

I spoke to Sam at Partsdude4x4 and he said that the clutch fork problem has been going on for years. They (crown?) are working with him to develop a better clutch fork. He received a prototype recently but it was still bad and he is waiting on the second prototype. It sounds like they are making some progress and the issue is not dead. He also carries the Novak conversion kit.

 

well this is me thinking
I would weld the worn areas , grind welded area and reuse

 

This might be a lot more durable too, as the picture posted by the OP seems to suggest the fork’s metal is too soft. I imagine a welded repair would result in a significantly harder surface.

 

You didn't say what has led you replacing the clutch. Was it making noise which could mean the release bearing was failing or was the clutch slipping. The wear on the end of the fork, looks to me anyway, like the bearing assembly was turning. If that's the case, the fingers on the bearing retaining spring are also worn and may not hold the bearing assembly properly in place. Welding as others have suggested may end up being nothing more than a band aid. Look more closely at your release bearing and fork to see if there are additional clues that led the the wear. I believe Summit Racing lists a new LUK brand release arm in stock.

 

I took my jeep down to the frame. I’m having my engine rebuilt and having a guy check out my transmission. Seems like the right time to put in a new clutch since it is sitting on my workbench. I only had my jeep for about a month before I started taking it apart, and I don’t have a great reference about what it should feel like if it was in great running condition. I bought the jeep so I could hopefully become less of a dope with respect to cars, and I have made a little bit of progress!

I like the option of welding it up partly because that is something I am actually capable of doing. I’m still going to look into my other options just as part of the learning experience and I will check out the Summit website. I will definitely check out the bearing and retaining spring in more detail. I didn’t want to “fix“ the problem if the wear pattern suggested that there was something like the wrong pivot ball height causing the problem. thanks for all the great suggestions.

 

I'm not sure if GM had a cast version of that arm but if they did, those are very tough critters. Working with the Chevy version, they appear to be cast steel and are very hard.

 

This is the cast version. I used an adjustable pivot ball to get the proper geometry to operate with correct throw-out bearing.

LMC 60-66 Chevy-GMC truck
https://www.lmctruck.com/1960-66-chevy-gmc/cbe-1960-66-clutch-components
https://4speedconversions-com.3dcartstores.com/3765372_r1.html
AA version:
https://www.advanceadapters.com/5319
Pivot ball:
https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/clutch/clutch-arms/
Speedway, Summit, Amazon and others carry the pivot ball.

 

So the 225/GM clutch fork pieces are the same as the rest of the GM clutch pieces? I've been using that cast fork in my 3B since 1973. I did have to use an adjustable pivot ball with it when I installed the twin disc McLeod clutch the last go-around, along with the adjustable throwout bearing, McLeod 16505. Yet to be tried in combat but that has the best pedal feel of any clutch that has ever been in it. Probably will not need to shift into neutral at stop lights anymore--------

 

Nice clutch set-up! I suppose Gm used the cast pieces because truck. The geometry comes in as the forks were bent to a particular application.

 

Would you be ok with this repair? I could have made it prettier and blended the 2 areas better, but I didn’t want to damage more of the old clutch.

 

I'd run it.

 

Thanks. I’ll put the hydro clutch conversion on my “future projects” list.