Brake Proportioning Valve Fittings

Hello friends, I have a brake issue that is sort of slowing me down. I converted my 73 over to front disk brakes when I had the front axle rebuilt. The attached picture is where I decided to place my pro-valve. From what I understand, that is where the valve would be for jeeps of later years than mine. The bracket mounts in the holes where the bellcrank mount would normally go. I am changing over to hydraulic clutch. I just don't like the way that one brake line hangs down on the bottom of the valve. I tried to make the bend as small as I could but it still looks too long (low) to me. I thought about buying a 90 degree fitting to screw into the bottom of the valve so the line could come straight to it, but I am not convinced that the fittings I looked at would work. The fittings are 1/8 NPT to 3/8-24 flare. The 3/8 flare side is no issue, I am running 3/16 tubing and the flare nut would thread right in. the 1/8 NPT is where the issue is. I took the valve off the frame and tried to lightly screw a 1/8 NPT fitting into the bottom of the valve and it only started about a quarter of a turn. I didn't force it. I could see that I could probably wrench it in there, but it would be a one time deal, probably screw up the threads on both the pro-valve and fitting. Don't really want to do that unless I have to. My other options are, move the pro-valve up a little high on the mount, or move the valve altogether and put it in a better spot. I thought of moving it up over the front axle area on the inside of the frame, maybe where it curves to get a better angle on the tubing. As a note, I have two types of benders, one is a small two handle job that works good, the other looks like a pair of crimpers that you clamp over the tubing and twist it one way or the other to get a 90 degree bend. The second one I don't really care for because it leaves a small crease in the tubing as you might see in the picture. I left some slack in the tubing and am going to redo that bend that you see. Any ideas or opinions would help. For reference, that spring mount is the drivers side, front spring, rear shackle. Thanks.

 

Hard for me to say for sure, but if it were me I would probably just move the new valve upward a little and redrill he mounting holes. Provided there is proper room above and a good place for the new bolt holes. Someone here might be able to recommend some sort of 90 degree fitting set-up but you could be inviting a more leak prone area with all the additional connections. JMO. Another thought is you might fab up some sort of shield to protect it using the valve mounting bolts to support it..

 

After doing some measuring, the front top bolt of my bracket (top of frame rail) is right in line with the firewall. Even though there is some space between the body floor and the frame, I am really considering moving the entire valve up and putting it right above the front axle. I would have to port some holes in the frame and tap for threads and bolt the valve straight onto the frame instead of using a bracket. Keep in mind I have just a rolling frame with nothing on it and am sort of going from memory when I took the jeep apart about 2 1/2 years ago. The original front brake lines met at a small junction box on the top of the frame just ahead of the axle line. If I remember correctly, there wasn't much in that area, might be a better area to place the new valve. If someone could take a peek at their frame in that area and see how cluttered it is, that would really help me out. I have a V8 with power steering/brakes if that makes any difference. I'm not too concerned with running the brake lines up to the master cylinder at this point, that can come later. I just wanted to get the front brake lines installed while I have the engine out. It's on the stand and ready to go back in. Thanks.

 

My jeep is not here right now to look at. However my first thought is the further back away from the exhaust manifold the better. from what I can remember about mine there should be plenty of room above to simply move the valve up a couple of inches, with the clutch linkage cross shaft not there , there should be plenty of room. I will try to take a look at mine later this week and take a photo of it.

 

Looks to me like the valve body is machined with a female inverted flare to accept the brake line with no adapter. So, of course an 1/8" pipe fitting won't work.
Just install a 90º male/female inverted flare fitting, cut off that ugly bend, reflare, reconnect, done. Just remember to slide the fitting on before flaring the line!

 

That's what I had intended to do...but...I am having a hard time finding that type of 90 degree elbow. On the fittings I am seeing online, the female side is fine, the 3/8 flare nut on my brake line would turn right in. The male side is where I am finding issues. I see a lot of NPT type fittings, which won't fit, or AN-type fittings which I don't think will fit (?). Maybe I'm over-thinking this and making it harder than it has to be, but if anyone can point me to the right type of elbow fitting, it would really help.
My second option is moving the PV up, even another inch or so would help, and rebend the end of the brake line for a smaller corner. I practiced on some scrap tubing with the plier type benders and it is better than that ugly thing in the picture. I left some big bends further up the brake line because I figured this might be an issue. Thanks for the reply.

 

I think your best bending the tube to a inside radius that is about 2x the tube diameter if it let's you. I doubt that line hanging down will be any issue since it is still higher than the spring hanger.

 

Yea I cut off that weird bend and re-bent it very carefully and it came out much better. I found that putting a little anti-seize on the tubing helped also, it made the bender work easier. I didn't move the valve up at all. I think it will be okay. Thanks for the input.