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T Case Brake Question

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Fresbone, Jan 28, 2023.

  1. Jan 28, 2023
    Fresbone

    Fresbone Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Fresno, California
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    This may be a dumb question, so apologies in advance. I am getting close to the point in my tear down where I am starting to build back up. My jeep originally had a T case e brake but one of the POs removed it. I was considering putting a later type E brake to my rear 11” drums, but my question is whether that is even needed vs just leaving the jeep in gear when parked. If in gear when parked with the engine off, would that function the same as locking the t case output shaft with a brake?
     
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  2. Jan 28, 2023
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Yes it would but without a parking brake you couldn't leave it running in neutral (if you wanted to) without at least blocking the wheels.
     
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  3. Jan 28, 2023
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    I have always thought some redundancy is very good in the sticks, as parked in gear and having the e brake set. That and in most states, you need an ebrake to be road legal. For sure hook up the ebrakes on the 11 inch drums. Whether or not you want to swap out the D18 rear companion flange for the none ebrake rear bearing retainer and yoke may depend on both driveshaft angle and length. The non ebrake set up is about 5/8" shorter but I think the companion flange actually gives you a little more angle before it binds up. Maybe both will be non-issues.
     
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  4. Jan 28, 2023
    Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2022 Sponsor

    East Tennessee
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    Another advantage of having the parking brakes on the rear drums is if you split these to two levers and you will have cutting brakes which are an effective traction device we used to call a poor man's locker.
     
  5. Jan 28, 2023
    Beach66Bum

    Beach66Bum 1966 Tuxedo Park Mark IV 2024 Sponsor

    Big Island on...
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    X2 on the vehicle inspection for having to have an operating e-brake to be legal to drive on the road. BTDT
     
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  6. Jan 28, 2023
    danielbuck

    danielbuck Uncle Buck

    USA
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    even with a high compression diesel engine, if I park on a steep hill and leave it in gear, it will slowly roll a bit. Sometimes just after parking you can see it lurch a few inches right after parking. Parking brake would prevent that.
     
  7. Jan 28, 2023
    jeepdaddy2000

    jeepdaddy2000 Active Member

    Eagle Point oregon
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    So, you have a couple of options.

    You can do an E-stopp. Expensive but pretty simple to install. It requires a 72 and later drum system with the stock cables.

    If all you are looking for is an emergency system to use if you loose a rear driveline or need something to keep the rig from rolling while you are out of it, a microlock style e brake may be the way to go. This is an "old school" solution that uses the rear brake line attached to a levered valve which locks the pressure in the lines. They work very well but since they use the existing brake system, are susceptible to any loss/damage from the valve back to the wheel cylinders.

    Addendum:
    Just looked up leverlocks to see if they were still available. HOLY OVERPRICED batman!
    Micro lever locks are 300 plus dollars for the genuine article.
    Amazon has the cheap ones for 25 clams
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2023
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  8. Jan 28, 2023
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Florida Keys
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    I would recommend a parking brake for any Jeep. Whether you refit the drum brake on the D18, or retrofit your 11”rear drums, either will require sourcing the parts. I’d think it may be easier to go with the drum on the D18 rather than mixing and matching cables and actuators (pedal or hand pull) and making them work together effectively.
    -Donny
     
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  9. Jan 28, 2023
    Sierra Bum

    Sierra Bum Member

    The High Sierra
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    Personally, I’d have a mechanical parking/e-brake. It’s smart to have one

    The drive shaft brake is just OK. They work, kinda. When clean and in good condition they are sufficient. But they reduce clearance and will probably get oily from a minor T-case leak and start to slip. If you’re just putting around town this will be the easiest and work fine.

    Line locks or a line lock (such as mico) work for short term parking but make use of the hydraulic system…I have electronic line locks I use for short periods when 4 wheeling…but this is NOT redundant as Duffer suggested and thus not an “E” brake…there is no safeguard against hydraulic failure.

    The rear drum retrofit would be my suggestion. You”ll need to find the coveted 72-75 11” backing plates with cable mounting feature. This can be set up with a YJ pedal or….the E-stopp perhaps…thanks jeepdaddy2000, that looks awesome!

    There are other more unorthodox options as well, like Brennan’s electric disk brake kit.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2023
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  10. Jan 28, 2023
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Agreed!
     
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  11. Feb 1, 2023
    Fresbone

    Fresbone Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Fresno, California
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    I think I have the coveted backing plates.
    [​IMG]11” backing plates by Francis Glaser, on Flickr
    The parts that look hard to find are the bracket and lever that transfer the front cable force to the rear cables. I may try out the classifieds. If anyone has a picture or measurements of these parts, it would be much appreciated. I have a schematic of the "Hand brake (less transmission brake)" from Howard.
     
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  12. Feb 1, 2023
    Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2022 Sponsor

    East Tennessee
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    I would address the source of the grease getting into the brakes.
     
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  13. Feb 1, 2023
    Fresbone

    Fresbone Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Fresno, California
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    I don't know how long grease has been getting into the brakes. I previously asked about pulling the hubs as part of the tear down and was told that it was a big undertaking since it is a tapered axle, so I addressed the result intead of the cause.
    [​IMG]Painted diff housings by Francis Glaser, on Flickr
    Do you think it is reasonable to put it back together, get it running, and then see if the problem still persists?
     
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  14. Feb 1, 2023
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    edit - think I posted incorrect info - disregard
     
  15. Feb 1, 2023
    Fresbone

    Fresbone Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Fresno, California
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    Does this help? The parts say Bendix.
    [​IMG]Brake parts by Francis Glaser, on Flickr
     
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  16. Feb 1, 2023
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    I would fix the source of the oil leak first unless you want to replace the oil soaked brake shoes later.
     
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  17. Feb 1, 2023
    Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2022 Sponsor

    East Tennessee
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    "I don't know how long grease has been getting into the brakes. I previously asked about pulling the hubs as part of the tear down and was told that it was a big undertaking since it is a tapered axle, so I addressed the result instead of the cause."

    Sounds like you have been listening to Homer Simpson too much.:D

    It isn't a big undertaking, it is part of routine maintenance, you have to pull the hubs, and axles to service the bearings and seals. You do need the right tools, and you need to study the manual until you know what you are doing.

    Painting axles so they are that pretty is more work than fixing what obviously needs fixed.

    "Do you think it is reasonable to put it back together, get it running, and then see if the problem still persists?"

    Since you did not fix the cause of grease leaking into the brakes, I would say the problem certainly will still persist. It didn't fix itself.

    Grease soaked brakes don't work so well, and brakes are a critical system.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2023
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  18. Feb 1, 2023
    JeffT

    JeffT New Member

    Raynham, MA
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  19. Feb 1, 2023
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    Honestly- No.

    Pull the hubs, pull the backing plates & check the bearings, seals & oil retainer. The grease could be simply be someone getting overly enthusiastic with the grease gun but it's more likely the axle shaft seals.

    Also- you're going to kick yourself for painting over the bolt threads :(
     
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  20. Feb 2, 2023
    Fresbone

    Fresbone Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Fresno, California
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    I thought about that a little too late. Just got a new tap and die set yesterday, so I plan to clean the threads before I reassemble.
     
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