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Blalp!’s Build/project (‘64 Cj5)

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by blalp!, Mar 1, 2020.

  1. Nov 15, 2020
    blalp!

    blalp! Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Concord, NH
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2019
    Messages:
    232
    [​IMG]
    Before I cleaned the garage and put the Jeep in the corner for the winter, I managed to finish up a few little projects. In this photo, you can see the tie rods cut and tapped to fit with the Saginaw box, dual master in with lines run and ready for bleeding, and the rear mounted tank is bolted in. It’s progress!

    While this is a ‘64, the fact that I am using a ‘70 V6 frame, ‘70-71 dual master and mount, V6 axles (3.73), and a ‘69 V6 with T14, this really isn’t much of a “build” anymore. Compared to a factory V6 CJ, the only real difference is the Saginaw steering, rear mounted gas tank, and twin stick large hole D18. Perhaps I should change the thread title to “blalp’s parts swapped CJ5” :shrug:

    I am scheming to adapt my NP435 to a D18 with a custom mount that is 1” or 1.5” long. This is assuming a short learning curve on my ‘new’ lathe. We’ll see.. :sneak:
     
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  2. Mar 24, 2021
    blalp!

    blalp! Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Concord, NH
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2019
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    232
    I ordered a Juan transmission floor cover. It looked pretty decent on the garage floor. However, it didn’t fit very well. You can see the modifications to make it look ok. I roughed out a transmission tunnel from another piece of old hard top. I shaped it this way so I can eventually make a center console of some kind.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    I’m not 100% sure if I will use the seats that came from the Commando, or refurbish the original CJ5’s seats. Once I decide, the location of the steering column can be finalized.
     
  3. Mar 25, 2021
    Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Active Member

    Louisville, Ky
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2009
    Messages:
    1,381
    I did not have a problem installing the Juan cover in my Jeep. I did have to adjust around the T-Case shifter. Just remember, the cover is made to fit the tub they make.
     
    blalp! likes this.
  4. Jul 2, 2021
    blalp!

    blalp! Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Concord, NH
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2019
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    It’s been too warm for me to spend much time in the garage. However, I have made a little progress here and there. Below are a few highlights.

    With some 1/2” stock, I drilled, tapped, cut, and welded some nuts for the trans tunnel.
    [​IMG]


    Here, is my take at a lower steering mount.
    [​IMG]


    A tree landed on my Commando hood, so it will live on as part of my passenger side wheelhouse.
    [​IMG]


    More scrap hardtop was used for the rear center filler. I used some 3/16” bent to 90* for the center body mounts.
    [​IMG]


    In an effort to maximize space in the garage, I put the Jeep together. Some may find it ugly, but I am happy with how it’s looking.:)
    [​IMG]


    I have a ton of weld grinding to do. Once done, I’m planning on using tint-able spray bed liner (brown). I’ll probably epoxy prime the outside patches before finding a close brown spray-paint. If my wife gets sick of riding around with a paper bag over her head:madwife:; I should be able to give it a ‘real’ paint job with relative ease.:shrug:
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Jun 4, 2022
    blalp!

    blalp! Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Concord, NH
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2019
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    232
    It’s been a while, and that has pretty much everything to do with the garage improvements. :D

    Last weekend I pulled the trans back to figure out why my clutch wasn’t disengaging all the way. It didn’t look like the pilot bushing was in all the way, but it didn’t move. While taking some measurements of the input shaft, I noticed there was a burr on the tip from being struck (or dropped) in its past. A closer look in the hole confirmed contact with the crankshaft. A quick hit with a grinder solved the problem. Reassembled and confirmed I could push the clutch and now the Jeep rolls easily in gear.:clap: (I also cleaned up the POs anti-seize)
    [​IMG]

    With the underside painted, I put the tub on for what will hopefully be the last time.

    [​IMG]

    A
    fter putting some seam sealer on the floor, it was time for some fiberglass.

    [​IMG]

    My new goal is to be on the road by end of June. I think it’s doable!

    (Edited to display images)
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2022
    Dne007, Twin2, Buildflycrash and 2 others like this.
  6. Jun 9, 2022
    blalp!

    blalp! Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Concord, NH
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2019
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    232
    I stopped by the DMV today for a little inspiraShaun!

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. Jun 9, 2022
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Virginia Beach, VA
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    Apr 28, 2011
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    you guys get stickers for antique plates too , I mean it has to be renewed every year
     
  8. Jun 9, 2022
    blalp!

    blalp! Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Concord, NH
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2019
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    We don’t have a sales tax, so they get us in property tax and vehicle regulations. However this Jeep has paid it’s dues and only cost $24.50 total (city and state portions combined).

    I have a safety inspection when I get it on the road. Due to its current age, it qualifies for every other year safety inspection which gets me to 60 years old, and no longer needs a safety inspection. :)
     
    Ol Fogie likes this.
  9. Jun 9, 2022
    givemethewillys

    givemethewillys Been here since sparky ran it. 2022 Sponsor

    New Kent, VA
    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2005
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    1,998
    That must have changed since I moved away from nh. We had annual registration, but no inspections. Looking at my jeep (from NH) compared to the options down south, what a difference. There's rust, and then there's RUST
     
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  10. Aug 7, 2022
    blalp!

    blalp! Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Concord, NH
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2019
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    232
    [​IMG]


    After a day of bolting in the roll bar, passenger seat, seat belts, and a few odds and ends; I took the wife to a local fast food restaurant (within walking distance) for a maiden voyage.

    We made it there and back with no major problems. There are, however, a few items that need to be addressed.

    -There is a brake pull (guessing the RF wheel cylinder didn’t feel like doing anything).

    -4WA after my new tires and wheel get here later in the week.

    -Plugs, wires, timing, and inspect distributor.

    -Lube the Speedo cable.

    -Nickmil kindly mailed me a well marked paper stencil to make a flywheel cover. He did this at his expense and that I pay it forward. Thank you Nick!

    -Start shopping for a rear dump manifold. The bolt on the clutch pedal taps the header when fully depressed and sounds uncool.

    -Although I tested the gauge cluster, the temperature doesn’t seem to work. Not sure if it is a resistance issue as the gauge is a 4cyl, and running the native V6 temp sensor.

    This project has been on and off over the last three years. As short as the trip was, it felt great to drive it! I even received a couple complements.
     
  11. Aug 7, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Feb 9, 2018
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    Congrats on a running driving Jeep! :bananatool:
     
  12. Aug 8, 2022
    givemethewillys

    givemethewillys Been here since sparky ran it. 2022 Sponsor

    New Kent, VA
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    Wow look at that progress! Glad to see it out and about!
     
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  13. Dec 16, 2022
    blalp!

    blalp! Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Concord, NH
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    I’m a bit behind in posting these. (These were taken late September to early October) The Jeep is tucked in for the winter, and it’s snowing out today.


    [​IMG]
    Wife and I had a picnic on a beautiful fall day.


    [​IMG]
    Starting Brennan’s front disc swap. Used the hole-saw method (5/8” IIRC)


    [​IMG]
    New NAPA studs and rotor installed.


    [​IMG]
    Left side done.


    [​IMG]
    Plenty of room inside. These are the 7” wide version of the wheels @Fireball has on one of his rigs.


    [​IMG]
    Flywheel cover cut out from the pattern the @nickmil kindly sent. I used 1/8” plate. Just need to drill the bolt holes.



    To Do List:
    Currently working on a glove box.

    I need to find a shorter pitman arm, or a two-hole knuckle. The steering is just way to sensitive at speed.

    Notching the wheelhouse will be in order. The gas pedal is uncomfortable with the seat so far forward.

    I hope to pull off my NP435 swap before spring. The 3.10 ratio of the T14 is just too tall with 3.73s. That said, I have two NP435s, and I am leaning towards the 4.56 close ratio for the street as apposed to 6.68 low gear.
     
  14. May 5, 2023
    blalp!

    blalp! Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Concord, NH
    Joined:
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    232
    I had a list going into the winter. There is still plenty on said list, but did accomplish the following:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Notched the driver’s wheel house to allow the seat to move back 3”. There’s plenty of room for my 31” tires. It appears that if I lift in the future, 33s should be okay too. The seat tracks only slides 2” back, which is a big improvement. Once I move the tracks back the last inch, it should be ideal.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I gave up my custom adapter goal, and purchased a Novak kit to attach the wide ratio GM NP435 (with tapered input bearing) to a larger bearing D18 or D20. I disassembled the 435, did some drilling and tapping, and had to plug one hole from the original rear bearing retainer using a set screw. Setting the input shaft end-play took some adjustment, but seems to be in spec now. I turned the input bearing retainer to match the original Jeep BOP bellhousing. It has yet to go in because I don’t know what I’m doing for a rear axle (off set or centered). If I go centered, I have the parts to make a 2.46 ratio D20. Even if I make up my mind, the install may wait until the end of the season.

    After testing my gauge cluster, I found my temp sender to be faulty, and swapped it with the sender from the F head. The gauge works, but cold reads dead center of the gauge. When warm, the gauge reads 3/4 to hot. I’ll confirm with a laser thermometer, but engine doesn’t seem to be over heating.

    After consulting this forum for steering concerns, I purchased a set of caster shims and U-bolts. I may install them this evening to test drive tomorrow. Hopefully this will prove to be an easy and successful fix.
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2023
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  15. May 6, 2023
    blalp!

    blalp! Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Concord, NH
    Joined:
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    [​IMG]
    Caster for the win! Absolute night and day difference by adding 6*. So much better at speed.
    The gain in handling cames with a setback…

    [​IMG]
    With axle rolled back; the TRE grease fitting on the drag link now hits the tie rod from a slight turn, to full lock. I don’t know how I’m going to fix this yet. Ideas welcome.

    Ideas I’ve come up with so far:
    1. Swapping the passenger side ends of the drag link and tie rod, but it looks like that won’t gain me much of anything.
    2. Move the steering box forward. (I can’t even say how much I hope this ISN’T the answer.)
    3. Get a reverse steering box and put the pitman arm out front.
     
  16. May 6, 2023
    Rich M.

    Rich M. Shoe salesman 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Maryland
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    Flip the draglink to the top of the arm.
     
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  17. May 6, 2023
    blalp!

    blalp! Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Concord, NH
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    I don’t recall, can I just flip the pitman arm, or are the splines tapered? Do I weld and ream to put the TRE on top?
     
  18. May 7, 2023
    vtxtasy

    vtxtasy oldbee 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    Tucson, AZ
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    I believe the pitman arm shaft is tapered. Flipping it may give you too much angle on your drag link. Your box is mounted too far back
    to use the long straight pitman arm. You may be able to find the tapered sleeves that you drill and weld in. At your own risk goes without
    saying. I believe Goforit or someone may have them.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2023
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  19. May 7, 2023
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    A shorter pitman arm and/or a flatter pitman arm might solve your problem with minimal effort.
     
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  20. May 7, 2023
    45es

    45es Active Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Naches, WA
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    If you have a ox/acetylene set, you can use the old school method and braze the tapered end of the pitman arm and ream the hole from the top.
     
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