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What? Another Jeep?

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Fireball, Jun 20, 2022.

  1. Jul 8, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
    Messages:
    5,622
    More things going back together.

    Bell crank and drag link in:
    [​IMG]

    I'm not super happy with the Crown 7/8" bell crank rebuild kit. The sleeve the bearings run on has some slop to the main bolt. This translates to some bell crank movement. This isn't an issue with the 1 1/8" bell cranks since there is no sleeve. Regardless, It's about 100 times better than it was. We'll see how it drives with that fix and the TightSteer.

    After that it was prep to get the new water pump installed. Gasket surface scraped and hit with Sctoch Brite. Bolt holes cleaned with a tap:
    [​IMG]

    Large bolts cleaned and thread chased. Small bolts are getting replaced:
    [​IMG]

    Bypass hose is in:
    [​IMG]
     
    Stakebed, 73 cj5, Ol Fogie and 7 others like this.
  2. Jul 10, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
    Messages:
    5,622
    Cap on passenger block drain, water pump back on, and heater hoses hooked up:
    [​IMG]

    Fan, belt, radiator, shroud, radiator hoses, air cleaner and we're back in business again:
    [​IMG]

    Letting it warm up and burping the cooling system. I always make a mess doing this, hence why it's outside:

    [​IMG]

    Took it up and down the driveway. With the throttle pedal fixed, the timing set, and the idle screws adjusted it's running really good now. Still has some steering slop but it's worlds better. I'll have to get it on some pavement to see how it does. It's staying nice and cool at idle and sounds a thousand times better without the marbles in a jar sounding water pump.

    There are a couple exhaust leaks I need to look into.

    Next is seats though. The driver's side is pretty much a bolt-in but the passenger side is going to take some fab.

    You can tell I don't have OCD because I like driving these old clapped out 'patina' Jeeps, but when I noticed the cowl braces didn't match:
    [​IMG]

    It drove me nuts until I flipped the drive's side brace. MUCH better:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2022
    Stakebed, Rubicloak, 73 cj5 and 14 others like this.
  3. Jul 10, 2022
    dozerjim

    dozerjim Member

    western New York
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2010
    Messages:
    965
    That was grating on me too.....thanks :watch:
     
    Fireball likes this.
  4. Jul 10, 2022
    NH Charlie

    NH Charlie Member

    New Hampshire
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2022
    Messages:
    66
    Excellent thread Fireball, well done - enjoyed reading.
     
    dozerjim and Fireball like this.
  5. Jul 11, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    5,622
    Used the die grinder to slot some holes in the driver seat mount:
    [​IMG]

    This let me get it as low and far back as possible. Now I need to make a passenger seat bracket to match the hieght:
    [​IMG]

    Then I put the Jeep to work moving some yard art:
    [​IMG]
     
    Stakebed, Rubicloak, 73 cj5 and 10 others like this.
  6. Jul 15, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    5,622
    Had a little time to work on the blue beater last night and started on the passenger seat mount.

    From the factory, the passenger side mounting surface sits a good inch and a half higher than the driver side mount. I think this is because the driver side originally had spacers and/or sliders. When you put in thicker after market seats, the driver side ends up OK but the passenger side sits way too high as shown here:
    [​IMG]

    The passenger side mounts need to be cut down for the seats to sit the same height. I'm doing a hybrid approach of modifying the original body mount but making a new hinged portion.

    Hacking the factory body mount 1/2" plus 3/16" (for my new mounting brackets):
    [​IMG]

    Creative jigging to get everything square for welding new bar stock mounts:
    [​IMG]

    Initial fitting for hole marking:
    [​IMG]

    Drilled and trimmed. Plenty strong and should look original-ish once I paint the ends black:
    [​IMG]

    And yes, it does clear the toolbox door.

    I'm using shallow C-channel for the seat rails. I've welded tabs on for the pivots. Here I am height matching the driver side mounts so I can mark where to drill the pivot holes:
    [​IMG]

    Holes drilled and things are lining up nicely. I'll be using that piece of 1"x1.5" tubing to make the rear support. I'll have to do some creative trimming for access to the rear seat bolts but have a plan:
    [​IMG]

    This is where I stopped but I had to throw a seat on it just to see. Much better!:
    [​IMG]
     
    Stakebed, Rubicloak, 73 cj5 and 4 others like this.
  7. Jul 16, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
    Messages:
    5,622
    Trimming the ends of the back bar:
    [​IMG]

    Fitting in the Jeep and tack welding to get all the angles right:
    [​IMG]

    Making gussets:
    [​IMG]

    Welding in gussets:
    [​IMG]

    The final layout with rubber bumprs is an almost perfect match to the driver bracket:
    [​IMG]

    Painted and attached to seat:
    [​IMG]

    By luck, it stays flipped forward for easy tool box access:
    [​IMG]

    Exactly what I was looking for. Both seats and as low and far back as possible without a fenderwell notch:
    [​IMG]

    I only painted the new ends on the body mount to keep some of the 'patina':
    [​IMG]

    Fixed another annoyance. The aftermarket windshield washer bottle keep bouncing off it's bracket on the fender. I drilled some holes through the mount and ran zipties to keep it in place:
    [​IMG]
     
    jarhead6153, Stakebed, 73 cj5 and 7 others like this.
  8. Jul 17, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    5,622
    With the seats in, we took it for a test drive around the neighborhood. It runs well with good power. Steering has some slop but it's easy to keep on the road. I've ordered some caster shims to help with that. Whatever the springs are, they ride better than both the BDS springs in the '71 and the ProComp springs in the '69.

    Brakes are fine but pull to the left and don't seem as powerful as 11" brakes should be. Time to investigate.

    Nice. The chrome hub covers seem to trap water and grease making this lovely concoction:
    [​IMG]

    This might be why it likes to pull to the left on braking. Left front wheel cylinder not looking so hot:
    [​IMG]

    Amazingly, the inside of the master cylinder looks decent. I think I can get a away with wheel cylinders and dousing the shoes with brake clean:
    [​IMG]

    So I guess wheel cylinders are the next project. I've got PB Blaster soaking on the brake line fitting overnight.
     
    73 cj5, Ol Fogie, 47v6 and 5 others like this.
  9. Jul 19, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    5,622
    I didn't really do anything with the Blue Jeep on Sunday except wonder why I thought I needed another project Jeep.

    Tonight I was back at it.

    Disassembly:
    [​IMG]

    And lots of cleaning:
    [​IMG]

    It's possible the left side will go back together tomorrow night and then I can tear into the right front.
     
    Stakebed, 73 cj5, Ol Fogie and 4 others like this.
  10. Jul 21, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    5,622
    Had a little time tonight.

    Brake back together:
    [​IMG]

    Wheel hub and Warn hub freshly greased and installed:
    [​IMG]

    Getting too late to start on the other side. Boy am I slow. This will be a week long brake job for sure.
     
    Stakebed, 73 cj5, Muzikp and 3 others like this.
  11. Jul 21, 2022
    Jw60

    Jw60 Sitting up n buckled down. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2008
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    4,716
    Don't worry I'm pushing two weeks on a tail light.
     
    Muzikp and Fireball like this.
  12. Jul 22, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    5,622
    What fun. The right side not only has a leakier wheel cylinder than the left side, but it's also blown a bunch a grease out the wheel bearing seal:
    [​IMG]

    Well lubricated brakes:
    [​IMG]

    It seems like it leaked because the hub was packed too full with really thin oil-like grease. It probably pushed out when hot. The seal and hub surface look fine.

    I've had good luck using brake cleaner to bring back grabby shoes from brake fluid. However, these are so grease soaked I've ordered new shoes for all around. Yay, I get to take the left side back apart again for new shoes. That pushes this job into some time next week since I'll be out of town this weekend.

    So much goo:
    [​IMG]

    Yeah, that wheel cylinder is leaking a bit. All the fluid on the floor is came out of the rubber caps:
    [​IMG]

    Amazing the brakes didn't feel worse than they did.

    Back to cleaning. Got all the removable stuff cleaned:
    [​IMG]

    Backing plate and drum are next.
     
    Stakebed, Rubicloak, 73 cj5 and 3 others like this.
  13. Jul 22, 2022
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Virginia Beach, VA
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    Apr 28, 2011
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    5,407
    well I wasn't going to mention it . but after seeing the brake shoes on passenger side
    I was taught the long shoe goes to rear
    both drivers and passenger side
    carry on
     
    Stakebed likes this.
  14. Jul 22, 2022
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2007
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    3,559
    BOB= Big On Back. I just went through the same thing. PO had 1/2 mine right.
     
  15. Jul 22, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    Whoops! Nice catch. I remember thinking about it when I put them on and then put them on wrong. :shrug:

    Oh well, at least I get to fix it.
     
    Muzikp and Ol Fogie like this.
  16. Jul 27, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    Back in town and back at it.

    Drum cleaned:
    [​IMG]

    Backing plate cleaned:
    [​IMG]

    All components back in place with new wheel cylinder and new non-greased shoes:
    [​IMG]

    Ready for bleeding:
    [​IMG]

    Except I need to go back and swap out the shoes on the other side and make sure I get them right front-to-back this time.
     
    73 cj5, Stakebed, Muzikp and 2 others like this.
  17. Jul 28, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    5,622
    The continuing saga of the two week brake job.

    Swapped new shoes onto the driver's front and made sure to put the front one in front and the back one in back this time:
    [​IMG]

    Yep, leaky cylinders in back too:
    [​IMG]

    But no greased shoes. That's an improvement.

    Yuck:
    [​IMG]

    Driver's side back together. I decided to reuse the old shoes since they looked fine:
    [​IMG]

    Passenger side back together. Took a decent amount of heat and pounding to get the drum off the flange:
    [​IMG]

    Next task is bleeding and this thing might be a runner again.
     
    Stakebed, 73 cj5, Muzikp and 5 others like this.
  18. Jul 29, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
    Messages:
    5,622
    101 degrees in the shop last night. Ugh:
    [​IMG]

    Ready for bleeding:
    [​IMG]

    Had the wife help, but there wasn't enough pedal to get any fluid moving so I set her free for less boring things. Then I attacked it alone with the vacuum bleeder:
    [​IMG]

    I've got it pulling fluid through all 4 corners now but still no pedal at all. I suspect I need to "bench" bleed the master cylinder but I had enough heat and called it a night.

    Next steps to get it bled:
    • Verify the master cylinder push rod is returning all the way. I'm not seeing any fluid movement in the reservoir when pumping the pedal and that makes me suspicious.
    • Bleed the master cylinder. I'll likely do this in place. I don't feel like pulling it out.
    • Grease the threads on the bleed screws so the vacuum bleeder doesn't suck air around them and try some more vacuum bleeding.
    • If it finally gets some pedal, have my wife help again.
    • If the vacuum bleeding doesn't work, make a cap to pressurize the master cylinder and pressure bleed it.
     
    Rubicloak, 73 cj5, Ol Fogie and 3 others like this.
  19. Jul 31, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
    Messages:
    5,622
    It was another lovely day. 105 in the shop after dinner:
    [​IMG]

    I waited a few more hours until the shop was in the upper 90s before working on the Jeep.

    Good news is the bleeding problem is figured out. When I pulled the brake pedal return spring to check the push rod length the pedal fell to the floor.

    It looks like the master cylinder stuck bottomed out in the bore. I probably happened because it stroked further than normal during bleeding and found some gunk:
    [​IMG]

    Now it aakes sense why nothing was happening with the pedal. The master cylinder wasn't leaking and all the seals look good so I'm just giving the bore a quick hone, cleaning everything, and putting it back together:
    [​IMG]

    Since I need to do draft seals and the clutch linkage needs some work, I tore the whole pedal assembly out:
    [​IMG]

    Clutch linkage has issues. Holes in the equalizer bar are a little oblong. I'll weld them up and re-drill:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This added Heim joint is mostly seized up and neither it nor the yoke have lock nuts:
    [​IMG]

    The Jeep demanded another blood sacrifice before the brakes will work. I was pulling on the brake pedal cotter ping when the pliers slipped. What did my hand hit? The now unused fuel line bracket on the bellhousing:
    [​IMG]

    Yeah, that felt good. Human bleeding required for brake bleeding:
    [​IMG]

    I really need to keep some bandaids out in the shop. I always end up with painter's tape and paper towels:
    [​IMG]

    I did discover the President Red it pretty close to blood red:
    [​IMG]

    After tonight the Jeep is further apart not further together.. Before I can bleed the brakes, I need to clean/reassemble/reinstall the master cylinder, clean all the pedal hardware, reinstall the pedals with draft seals, and rebuild a bunch of the clutch linkage.

    Now it's looking like it might be a 4 week brake job. At least it's supposed to cool down some starting Monday. That helps my motivation in the shop a lot.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2022
  20. Jul 31, 2022
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Virginia Beach, VA
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    Apr 28, 2011
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    5,407
    yep shop temps . just a little warm :whistle:
    my shop first aid too
    paper towel and electrical tape
     
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