What exactly is the point of swedged on drums?

Do a search for "swedge cutting tool"

https://goodson.com/products/swedge-tools
https://www.ecklers.com/model-t-for...MQ&fclid=c21bfa6f-fd3e-11ec-b3ab-1610c4cb42ee
They are pretty spendy. Guys have used a hole saw to cut them as well.
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/126187/

 

Whether you use a hole saw, or a swedge cutter the very important thing is to not go too deep. I use a drill press with depth control, and just cut a little at a time, you don't want to get into the hub flange as it will ruin the hub.

 

That last link with a modified hole saw is how I'll proceed for now. Thanks for the good links.

 

Yeah well, that was SEVEN YEARS ago.

 

So it seems Quadratec sells drums without the hubs attached. So am I good to cut the swedge and use the hubs with new drums (not swedged)?

https://www.quadratec.com/products/916701_03.htm

 

just clicked on link . someone buy them out

 

Yup. but can I use that drum in place of one that was swedged?

 

Just for FYI, I bought new hubs from Debellas and new drums from rock auto.

 

Yes, as long as you don't damage it cutting the swedges.

 

You need to test fit the drum to insure the holes go over the old swedging.
You may have to replace the swedged lug bolts.

 

Ok, if I'm not reusing the drum or wheelstuds, is there any reason I can't use an angle grinder/flap disk to remove the drum from the hub, then grind the studs down more and finally drive out the remaining wheel studs?
I'm doing a disk brake conversion, plan on keeping the hub, nothing else.

 

That should work.

 

I cut the studs off close as I can with a die grinder, rake the grinder across the stud until the swaged portion is gone which is easy to see, and then with some support underneath (usually a big deep well socket) I knock the remainder of the studs out with a punch bit on my air chisel.

 

Thank you. Thank you!!

To those of you using “swage” as the correct term!

I found someone who wrote about removing the head of the stud, then driving the remaining part out from the hub. It works!

Drill a 5/16” (or so) pilot hole in the center of the head. Then follow with a drill that’s larger than the head diameter. I used a 3/4” drill.

When the head comes off the studs, the drum is free from the hub. Then drive or press the studs from the hub. The drum can be reused this way - though I didn’t/won’t.

Jon B.

 

Separated the drum from the hub, now I can't figure out how to drive the remaining part of the wheel stud out? Hydraulic press? I'm afraid to bend the hub, can't find new ones online

 

I'd press or hammer it out supported very closely, and only, immediately around the stud. Maybe on a small diameter item, such as an old socket wrench?

Or drill it partly through to just under the diameter, then punch it? Or burn it out carefully with the oxy-acetylene torch?

 

If you try and press out the stud without grinding the stud flush with the hub, youre gonna bend it. BTDT. Once you grind it flush, you can use a press or a vise or a punch and hammer with a socket on the back side

 

Don't try to burn it out with a torch, but I have used a hammer and driven out many of them by laying the hub flange over my big bench vice with the jaws opened enough to clear the head of the stud.

 

Tried this and shattered a punch.

 

I have never shattered a punch even with my biggest BFH.. chipped a couple.