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Dauntless V6 Not Idling And Popping Out The Exhaust

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by jrsgoldenarm, Apr 21, 2022.

  1. Apr 21, 2022
    jrsgoldenarm

    jrsgoldenarm New Member

    pinellas park fl
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    20220421_184006~3.jpg 20220421_183656~3.jpg This is on a 1966 dauntless the Jeep seem to run good but it sat for a month and when I started it now it won't idle and I have to keep my foot on the throttle to keep it running.I was thinking carburetor but I pulled the valve covers today and now I'm thinking I have a valve issue.The clean side is the driver and the dirty side is the passenger side.What do you think?Thanks
     
  2. Apr 22, 2022
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
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    Is the dirty side look like oil mixed with water? = Head gasket.
    I’m guessing you haven’t owned it for 50+ years so the clean side could have been pulled and cleaned anytime in the past. I’d say keep looking at the carburetor and timing for now. Timing is easy to check rebuilding the carb can take a few hours.
     
  3. Apr 22, 2022
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    A Vacuum gauge may well reveal clues. And a compression test would be a priority.
     
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  4. Apr 22, 2022
    jeepdaddy2000

    jeepdaddy2000 Active Member

    Eagle Point oregon
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    Since the engine simply sat and given the quality of today's fuel, I would start with the carb.

    The stock 2G carb is simple. I would disassemble and clean the idle system. Reinstall and adjust.
    If the problem still persists, inspect for any vacuum leaks.

    If you have eliminated any intake/fuel issues, run a vacuum gauge to see if you are dealing with a valve/cam issue.

    Next stop is a compression test.

    By this time you should have found either the problem or the issue relating to it.

    Don't get excited about the grunge under the valve cover till you run the engine at tempo for a couple of hours and inspect the PCV system.
     
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  5. Apr 22, 2022
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Looking under the valve covers won't tell you much. Good suggestions above - do tests that are easy and cost nothing first. I don't see any evidence to suggest valves.

    The clean head is interesting. A burnt valve is another possibility. They could have fixed just that head (a patch-up job) and that's the head that's clean. Head gasket too, but the V6 heads are so short I'd think that's not very likely. Also possible its an artifact of the PCV system not functioning, as mentioned
     
  6. Apr 22, 2022
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    My same thought on the heads, the clean side probably has been rebuilt. IME, poping out of the exhaust is usually an exhaust valve problem but could be a failed lifter also. A compression test would quickly determine those possibilities. These heads do not have hardened valve seats and I've always had those installed on a rebuild.
     
  7. Apr 22, 2022
    jrsgoldenarm

    jrsgoldenarm New Member

    pinellas park fl
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    Ok thanks will do the carb first.Because I already have a rebuild kit and see what happens and go from there.Will also check the pcv valve.Will post results after the carb rebuild.Thanks for all the good advice.
     
  8. Apr 22, 2022
    TommyMac

    TommyMac Member

    Woodstock GA
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    If you are running a regular distributor, have you checked the points and condenser? This can cause the same issue.
     
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  9. Apr 22, 2022
    jrsgoldenarm

    jrsgoldenarm New Member

    pinellas park fl
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    I have installed Pertronix on it about a year or so ago.
     
  10. Apr 22, 2022
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Make sure you have proper vacuum. Your carb power valve operates by vacuum.
     
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  11. Apr 22, 2022
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Me: "So what is the problem?"

    Mechanic: "Nothing much. Just crap in the carburetor."

    Me: "Okay. How often should I do that?"
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2022
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  12. May 22, 2022
    jrsgoldenarm

    jrsgoldenarm New Member

    pinellas park fl
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    Update just got around to rebuilding the carb.Installed the carb and put all new gas in the tank and got it fire up and running but not well still popping.So I hooked up the timing light to check the timing.I couldn't seem to get it dialed in.So I started moving the timing light from spark plug wire to spark plug wire and found that on 3 of them the light wasn't flashing as fast as the others.I decided to change the plugs and now it's running good.The plugs that were in there are autolite 85 and not that old so not impressed by them but had to buy them again because that's all they had.What is a good plug to run in the Dauntless?Thanks for all the great advice.
     
  13. May 22, 2022
    Andrew Theros

    Andrew Theros Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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  14. May 22, 2022
    Lockman

    Lockman OK.....Now I Get It . 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    NGK 5858 {XR4} V-Power
    Gap 0.035"
     
  15. May 22, 2022
    shaun

    shaun Member

    Lebanon, Ohio
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    I run the ez plug. A bit more but “it only costs a little more to go first class” great spark and pre-set as well as 3 points for spark
     
  16. May 22, 2022
    shaun

    shaun Member

    Lebanon, Ohio
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    I have to do a compression test on my 66 dauntless as well. I have one side clean and other side dirty but I have popping out one side only. My carb is rebuilt, vacuum gauge reads 18-20 I do have a 4bbl and headers as well as a dui distributor. I want to do a engine flush with liquid Molly then clean oil pan and what to see if I can get my oil pressure up and with compression test I can see if I have issues with cylinders as well.
     
  17. May 22, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Usually if you have one side running differently than the other on a Dauntless it means you have an odd-fire distributor installed incorrectly or have an even fire distributor installed.

    An odd-fire V6 fires like so in crankshaft degrees:
    • Fire cylinder #1
    • Rotate 150 degrees
    • Fire cylinder #6
    • Rotate 90 degrees
    • Fire cylinder #5
    • Rotate 150 degrees
    • Fire cylinder #4
    • Rotate 90 degrees
    • Fire cylinder #3
    • Rotate 150 degrees
    • Fire cylinder #2
    • Rotate 90 degress
    • Fire cylinder #1 again
    • and so on
    If you have an odd fire distributor oriented incorrectly and timed to the #1 cylinder, it will still run but it will be firing the right bank of the engine 60 degrees advanced.

    If you have an even fire distributor installed in an odd-fire, it will fire at 120 degree intervals and the right bank will fire 30 degrees advanced.

    Lots of previous threads about this on the forum. Here are some:
     
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  18. May 23, 2022
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    Thats what Ive always run in mine.
     
  19. May 23, 2022
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
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    Here's what happened to mine years ago before I rebuilt it. I would drive it 20-40 miles and when it would get warmed up good it would start to backfire and pop out the passenger side exhaust. I got it home let it cool down and checked everything multiple times, all good. Kept happening, finally did the compression test on the engine warm instead of cold, cylinders 2 & 4 were nearly non existent on compression pressure. Let the engine get cold and rechecked it, compression was low but was acceptable, finally got tired of the crap and pulled the head, the factory all metal gasket was burnt completely in 2 between the cylinders, opened up when the engine got warm and the pressure would spread between the 2 cylinders. After a rebuild never did it again. My engine had over 165k miles on it when I rebuilt it. Had to have the block shaved about .015" to clean up the exhaust burn on the deck.
     
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  20. May 29, 2022
    shaun

    shaun Member

    Lebanon, Ohio
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    So when I installed the dist. I used a top dead center tool and was dead on 0. I installed as 5 BTDC TO SPEC. it wouldn’t run right at all popped, shuddered, stalled, etc. at 10 it ran good, so I’m running 10-12 BTDC. My Vac advance is pointing slightly to passenger side aiming to grille. As pictures from site my tach and batt are aimed at carb. I don’t understand how I could install it wrong. ???
     
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