Conundrum

Acquired a "1960 cj5" a few weeks ago from an old friend. They just needed to get rid of it so it was a welcomed gift. The reason I put parentheses around the jeep is since doing research on it it's been "chumakanized", as my dad would say.

Have a title that says, based on the body tag, 1960 cj5.

While checking steering, I noticed that the bell crank mount was welded to the bottom of the front crossmember and the crossmember had a crack in it. Then I realized the front crossmember was the upside-down hat channel from an GPW. They had installed a later front axle and had to relocate the bell crank mount since the original front axle was gone. They also used different springs up front that had the eyes reversed front and back. One of the shock mounts is correct but the other is just a bolt welded to the frame.

The rear leaf mounts, front and back, were also removed (can still see the rivets) and a later one piece axle dana 44 was installed. Different leaf springs were used with mounts welded to the outside of the frame like a modern truck. They did this front and back and flipped the spring pads to the top of the axle. Everything rides the same height so not quite sure the intention. Inboard shock mounts were also welded to the axle and uppers ones were welded to the frame above the differential. The GPS rear brace to the bumper was also cut out.

It runs fine. Smokes a little but trying to get the rings clean and putting a carb kit in it to see if that clears it up before I pull the head.

It also has a Koenig winch in the front that is pto driven. With this install and the pto shaft in the way the exhaust had to be routed outside of the frame and then back under behind the driver.

Haven't verified tooth count but the front axle is tagged as having 5.38 gears but the rear is tagged as having 3.73. When the rear axle was changed, they also installed a standard emergency brake handle between the seats since the rear axle has emergency brake cables.

They used it around the ranch since the late 90's but did not have the capacity to do any of these "alterations".

Can't figure out what route to take with this thing. Body is in good condition. No rust. Usual dents.

My boys and I were looking forward to just having something to cruise around but man, what a cluster.
I was going to correct the spring mounts and axles. That's easy enough and I think I have a set of springs but after finding out the frame is from a GPW and I don't have a stable mount for the bell crank, I 'm not sure which route to take.

 

Now would be a good time for Saginaw steering conversion.

The leaf springs can always be changed back to the original location configuration.

You might want to pull your diffs off and start counting teeth because I don't think you can realistically have the gearr sets that far apart from each other in them.


pics help. f head motor?

 

That was standard spec modification from Koenig.

As for the rest... well, at least you don't have any worries about "keeping it original." Have fun!

 

Photos will be very helpfull if your looking to get some advise on going forward.

The springs you have may be just fine. Doing a shackle reversal is a popular modification.
Old steering boxes can be rebuilt and made useable (Popular with "restoration" folk) . Power or regular Saginaw steering boxes are a modification I'd guess over half of the members here have done.

 

Welcome to the forum!
Outboarding the springs can work really well, but usually requires a wide-track axle, especially up front, or the tire will hit the springs when you turn. I would look into re-gearing the rear axle to match the front. If you still have the F134 engine, it can’t pull much more then the later 4.27 gears.
-Donny

 

Welcome from Michigan, Sounds like you have a nice Jeep to start with, no rust to deal with. It's worth fixing anything else. Jeeps are a great Hobby, in time you can almost always find the parts you need. The hard part is the cost of shipping today, but there is help with if you find the right people. Good Luck.

 

Just pull the cover and look for the tooth stamped on the ring gear 43/8= 5.38s (43 divided by 8)

 

Welcome aboard! If this was my project, I would fix the steering and gearing (if needed) and then put some miles on it to see how the rest of it works. I don't think there is anything inherently wrong with the spring conversion and it may work better than the stock arrangement if it was done well. I too would be putting a Saginaw box on it. Even if it meant going to another type of winch.

 

Possible Postal Jeep rear axle, springs, and emergency brakes?

 

Welcome to the forum.
Probably this Jeep was owned by a wizard, but if it works, that's good.
You have to try it on the road, to see how it really works, but carefully, mostly in curbs.
The other funny solution is to put is on a merry-go-round, for the joyce of children, but with some long-distance work, you can make a marvel, according to the pictures I imagine.

 

Finally figured out pics.


Rear spring over and shock relocation.


Shackle relocation.


Rear hanger rivets.


(Rear) Front spring perch.


Rear shock relocation.


Front crossmember bell crank mount crack.

 

Rear (Front spring mount)



Front axle. Same type of spring with alternating ends. PO welded ubolts. Different top shock mount. used original on other side.

 

Good eye and info. Don't know why they'd go through the trouble.

 

The outboard springs were used on the Jeepster, as well as the full sized Jeeps (Wagoneer, J-truck). Those are so-called "post mounts" and were used on the early Wagoneer. The outboard springs allow for softer springs and softer ride, without increasing body roll. The posts have higher pivot points than the regular shackles, which may be why the rears are spring-over, to keep the original ride height.

 

You probably do not want to run that brake line in the last photo as is. The steel line will not last very with the floating hose end. I think some of the better post mounts were the "L" shaped ones used on the FC's.

 

Holy crap look at those u bolts!!