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Early Non-vented Windshield Refurb/color

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by truckee4x4, Dec 23, 2021.

  1. Dec 23, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Truckee CA
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    After seeing how nice the body shop is making my tub I feel like I should have them do the windshield too instead of rattle canning it myself. I think mine is in pretty solid shape so shouldn't be that bad.
    Photo Jul 08, 9 08 35 AM-2.jpg

    Who here has pulled one of these apart? How hard is it to get the glass out and all the other bits and pieces off? How hard is it to put back together?
    Photo Jul 08, 9 08 10 AM-2.jpg
    Mine looks like it has some rust where the soft top slot was spot welded to the top. Is this softtop slot original, or was it added? I'm going to keep it if possible cause I do have a relatively new Bestop.
    Photo Jul 08, 9 08 15 AM-2.jpg
    Also - is the paint just any old satin black? Or is there a Ditzler/PPG code for it? Anyone happen to know what it is?
    Photo Jul 08, 9 08 38 AM-2.jpg
    Love to hear form some folks that have gone down this road before. Cheers and Happy Holidays.
    Photo Jul 08, 9 08 58 AM-2.jpg
     

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  2. Dec 23, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    The soft top slot is original. The original black was originally a gloss black but not as glossy as modern paints. Somewhere between a current semi-gloss and gloss. If you pull the gasket off the bottom you should have a good un-weathered sample of the original paint.
     
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  3. Dec 23, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I wonder what shape it's going to be in when it gets blasted. Looks like some bad spots of rust at some points along the top of the arch.
     
  4. Dec 23, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Looking at the back side, it doesn't look like the rust in penetrating through. You might get lucky an only need a little filler to smooth things out. Time will tell, of course.
     
  5. Dec 23, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Who would you guys suggest as the best vendor for replacement seals and gaskets?
     
  6. Dec 23, 2021
    Uncle Vin

    Uncle Vin Member 2022 Sponsor

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    Peter DeBella
     
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  7. Dec 23, 2021
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    x2
     
  8. Dec 24, 2021
    Jw60

    Jw60 Sitting up n buckled down. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Uhhh... that's not a vented windshield.
    That just got the tux park chrome bits but no lolly pops and inner frame.
     
  9. Dec 24, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Lolly pops? Got a pic that shows one? Guess I’ll edit the thread title….
     
  10. Dec 24, 2021
    Jw60

    Jw60 Sitting up n buckled down. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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  11. Dec 24, 2021
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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  12. Dec 24, 2021
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    So anyone got any pointers for me on getting the glass out and then back in?
     
  13. Dec 24, 2021
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

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    warm everything up well. start by pulling the lock bead from the outside, and don't use any steel tools to lift the lip on the rubber up to allow the glass out. some dish soap along the edge of the glass and rubber will help. loosen the rubber to glass all the way around before pushing the glass out from the back. I use the end of a wooden paint stick, as it won't break the glass. it only takes a tiny chip on the edge to ruin the glass. fwiw any auto glass place should have the rubber in stock as well as the ability to cut you a new glass should yours break.
     
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  14. Dec 24, 2021
    scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

    Seattle Wa.
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    If you are having a body shop do your tub. I would have them do the windshield as well. I would just strip the frame of all the parts and let them do the work.

    I see the rubber at the bottom of the frame looks half way good, does it still seal? My hinges were bent and didn't seal. I straited them and now it seals just fine. You may want to inspect the hinges before painting them.
     
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  15. Dec 24, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    They quoted me a reasonable price for blasting and painting so I need to strip it of parts and pull the glass and rubber. It is actually in worse shape than it looks so I have a new gasket for the bottom. I will just need the seals around the glass. The hinges are in hood shape and are currently getting re-chromed.
     
  16. Dec 24, 2021
    Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2022 Sponsor

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    That frame is in a lot better shape than most are. Spray bomb paint won't last, so I too would let the body shop shoot it.

    The best thing out there for killing rust in tight places like that top retainer is Eastman Products "Por 15" which will flow into the seams and stop the rust, but it is expensive. I think I paid over $40 for a pint can of the stuff.

    A cheaper rust killer / converter is a brand called "Ospho" which is available at most hardware stores. It works. At some time in the distant past there had been a small electrical fire behind the dash on my CJ5 which had burned up the cardboard defroster duct. The fire burned off the paint underneath the cowl, and up into the defroster channel in the windshield. I sprayed Ospho up on the underside of the cowl, and up inside the windshield frame, let that cure, and then shot paint on the damaged areas as best as I could. It seems to have stopped the rust.

    Some of the cowl seals being sold for CJ5s are about 3/4 of an inch too long. If the new seal you have is one of those, you can cut 3/8" pieces out each side of the defroster holes and bond it back together. Super glue works well, but you have to cut squarely to get a good bond.

    I found a cowl seal that is the correct length from an Ebay seller. If you find yours is too long and want to get one that fits rather than cutting and gluing one, let me know and I will see if I can find that seller in my purchase history.
     
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  17. Dec 25, 2021
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

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    In an enclosed space like the top of the frame fluid film is the product I would/do use. The por15 works but if any spot has a void in the finish water will get behind the cured por and eventually it will peel off in a big wet rusty sheet. Damhik.
     
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  18. Dec 25, 2021
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    x2. And needs to be topcoated to be protected from UV light, IIRC.
     
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  19. Dec 25, 2021
    Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2022 Sponsor

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    Never used "fluid film", probably because I never heard of it before. I will have to look into that.
     
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  20. Dec 25, 2021
    truckee4x4

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    I’ve got a bottle of the Loctite rust inhibitor. But I’ll probably just hand this over to the body shop, they have 50 years of experience restoring and building concours show cars. and given the miracle they are pulling off on my tub I’m sure they’ll have something to treat the rust at the top of this windshield frame.
     
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