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Stock Key Switch Wiring?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by termin8ed, Sep 20, 2021.

  1. Sep 20, 2021
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    Anything special about an old original key switch???
    I've got power to starter when cranking.
    Power to battery always.
    No power to accessories.
    Power while cranking only to ign.

    This is a new nos switch.


    I should have power to ign when key is in run position correct?
     
  2. Sep 20, 2021
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    That would be full-voltage juice from the solenoid circuit. Should usually be another reduced-voltage "run" connection to the coil that goes through a ballast resistor. (This symptom sometime indicates a burnt out ballast resistor.)
     
  3. Sep 20, 2021
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    No ballast resistor.

    It ran fine on the old ignition switch.

    Unless I flipped the wires from the battery terminal to the ignition?:confused:


    But shouldn't the ignition terminal be hot in the run position? Starter terminal only hot while cranking?
     
  4. Sep 20, 2021
    Cj5dale

    Cj5dale Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Knoxville, Tn
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    upload_2021-9-20_20-22-59.jpeg Here’s a pic of what the back of my ignition switch looks like on my 1970 cj5 dauntless. You can barely see the “ign” mark on the ignition. Might could use that as a reference?

    Probably won’t help but thought I’d post it just in case. I think the wiring is stock but can’t gaurantee it. This pic didn’t have the wire for the backup light connected.
     
  5. Sep 20, 2021
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    I don't know, me. My jeeps have foot starters.
     
  6. Sep 20, 2021
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    unfortunatly no. the one I have has a center stud with starter. then 3 studs around that. ign, batt, acc.
    Its too dark and mosquitoee out there right now so can't check.
    I'll have to trace the wires and make sure I hooked them up right. Even if I flipped the battery and ign terminals I would think that things would still run? Engine turns over, starts to start like normal and then when you let off the key so it goes back to the run position it dies.
     
  7. Sep 20, 2021
    Cj5dale

    Cj5dale Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    So it’s losing fire at the coil when it goes back to “run”?
     
  8. Sep 20, 2021
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    Proper switch for your jeep 69. Bat term, center term is STR (starter) comes hot when key moved to start. ACC stays hot in ON or ACC position. ON/ (ign) is not hot during cranking. Only in the run position. That is why you need the ign bypass.
     
  9. Sep 20, 2021
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    Yes.

    The aftermarket one I had on there seemed to work fine. Maybe it is different internally?

    I get nothing at accessories on, off, or cranking. Ign goes hot when cranking.


    *****I went out and pulled the switch and put the old one back in. Fired right up.

    If I was diagnosing this id say the switch is bad.
     
  10. Sep 20, 2021
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    New switch

    I checked it with my ohm meter and it reads the same. Between batt and start is 0 ohms on crank.
    Batt to ign is 0 on crank, ol on run.
    Batt to acc is ol on all.

    Anyone popped one of these apart before?
    I am able to pull the key cylinder out at least.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Ignore my spaghetti. I need to clean it up a little so I dont have all the wiring on the switch...
     
  11. Sep 21, 2021
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I see one of them high dollar keys :D
     
  12. Sep 21, 2021
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    I have taken headlight switches apart; not that switch, but others. Same thing. Inside are phosphor-bronze fingers with raised contacts that move with the tumbler. The bronze is used because it stays permanently springy and won't corrode. I recall they fail when the springy bronze eventually fatigues and breaks off.

    They are not meant to be disassembled, but if you are careful you can do it. However, this looks like a "universal" ignition switch, which should be widely available. Get out your pencils and paper and trace out the circuit. Ohm out the contacts at each tumbler position. There has to be continuity between the battery post and "run" at some point - above you give the impression that it's shorted everywhere ("0" as in zero Ohms? And what is ol?)

    STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS US14KA Ignition Lock Cylinder | RockAuto
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2021
  13. Sep 21, 2021
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
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    Ol=out of limit=infinate resistance.

    Yeah, something has to be either bent or corroded inside the switch. I'm going to attempt spreading the metal to get the actual switch out.

    The old switch is still good, just wanted them fancy jeep keys. The stem? On the jeep key switch is a little longer so doubt I can just swap cylinders. Maybe I can keep my eye out for another longer switch and swap the tumblers
     
  14. Sep 21, 2021
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    More pins in the tumbler means longer? Fewer pins would be cheaper, ie the replacement lock.
     
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