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Do I Need A Transmission Rebuild?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Cj5dale, Sep 17, 2021.

  1. Sep 17, 2021
    Cj5dale

    Cj5dale Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Knoxville, Tn
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    I have a 1970 CJ5 with Dauntless V6, T-14 transmission and Dana 18 T-Case.

    Shifting from 1st to 2nd is smooth.

    Shifting from 2nd to 3rd at 20-25 mph (or higher) will grind a little unless I hold the clutch in to give it some time.

    Downshifting from 3rd to 2nd is smooth as silk at 30 mph or less.

    Downshifting from 2nd to 1st must be done by either double clutching or slowing down to 1 or 2 MPH.

    I have fresh fluid in transmission and t-case.

    Is this normal or am I experiencing symptoms of transmission issues requiring a rebuild?
     
  2. Sep 17, 2021
    SFaulken

    SFaulken Active Member

    Bellevue, WA
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    I can't speak as to whether it's pointing towards a rebuild, but I can say that the T14, I took out of mine, when swapping to the T98, didn't exhibit those symptoms, other than a *little* grinding on the 1-2 upshift, if I was really on the throttle.
     
  3. Sep 17, 2021
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    There are blocking rings in the transmission that wear out. They only act going into a gear. They are basically conical clutches that force gear speeds to match when you shift. Most drivers would downshift to first very seldom... you really don't need first except from a standing stop. Second typically wears out first, because it's the most useful downshift. Third gets little wear because there's not much speed difference between the gears.

    Note that these are blocking rings, and the more speed difference between the gears, the more blocking action you should feel. If the gear speeds are lined up, it should slide in smoothly.

    How fast the blocking rings wear out depends a lot on the driver, and how much use is made of the blocking rings. I suggest you focus on driving so the gears don't clash. Early cars did not have synchromesh - drivers were expected to match gear speeds, and they did. If you pick the right speed for your upshifts, you won't even need the clutch.

    There could be something else wrong, besides "normal" wear, that causes gear clash. That you have grinding going into 3rd is suspicious. That's not usual.
     
  4. Sep 17, 2021
    Cj5dale

    Cj5dale Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Knoxville, Tn
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    Thanks for the info!

    I’m not sure how the Jeep was driven before I bought it. Or even how well it was maintained. Probably not very well I’m guessing.

    Any thoughts on what to look for regarding the grinding going into 3rd?
     
  5. Sep 17, 2021
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    I can only guess. You really can't do anything to a manual transmission other than change the oil without removing it and taking it apart. The blocking rings and the front main bearing seem to be the most wear-prone parts. If the input shaft were misaligned with the main shaft, that might grind going into 3rd. I'd look at the front main bearing, the input shaft pocket bearing, the pilot bushing, the 2-3 synchro hub. Just guessing.
     
  6. Sep 17, 2021
    Cj5dale

    Cj5dale Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Knoxville, Tn
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    Thank you!
     
  7. Sep 17, 2021
    Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2022 Sponsor

    East Tennessee
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    Make sure your clutch is adjusted correctly. Check pedal free play and if it is more than about an inch the clutch may not be disengaging soon enough.
     
  8. Sep 17, 2021
    Cj5dale

    Cj5dale Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Knoxville, Tn
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    I measured the play and there’s almost an inch before the cable starts to engage.

    How do I adjust this? Is this even correct?
    upload_2021-9-17_19-29-35.jpeg
     
  9. Sep 17, 2021
    SFaulken

    SFaulken Active Member

    Bellevue, WA
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    There should be a threaded end on the cable, at the clutch fork, with a couple of jam nuts, for adjusting it.
     
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  10. Sep 17, 2021
    Cj5dale

    Cj5dale Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Knoxville, Tn
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    Thanks. I’ll give that a shot.

    Hoping the path of least resistance will work before diving into the suggestions timgr provided.

    Thanks again for the help!
     
  11. Sep 17, 2021
    Lockman

    Lockman OK.....Now I Get It . 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Your clutch just needs adjustment.
     
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  12. Sep 17, 2021
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Spokane Valley, WA
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    If it were just the clutch out of adjustment, the synchros would prevent it from going into gear unless the RPMs matched, or even grinding.
    My guess is either the trans needs a rebuild, or it’s dangerously low on oil.
     
  13. Sep 17, 2021
    Cj5dale

    Cj5dale Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Knoxville, Tn
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    I’m afraid I can confirm the oil in both the transfer case and transmission is full.

    When I take the fill plug out of both tcase and transmission I can feel oil with my finger.

    I’m afraid to ask how much a rebuild might cost. Any idea what to expect?


    :cry:
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2021
  14. Sep 17, 2021
    SFaulken

    SFaulken Active Member

    Bellevue, WA
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    Assuming you don't need any gears, I want to say I remember Novak doing a "Master Kit" for like $300-$350-ish Assuming you do the work yourself.

    You can check their website easily enough.

    Yeah, I just looked, and my memory is faulty. $165-ish. But they're on f*&king indefinite backorder, like just about everything else lately.
     
  15. Sep 17, 2021
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    I have a T14 I rebuilt quite a few years ago...nothing you describe sounds like a major problem - it actually sounds a lot like mine. You don't really speed shift these things. And although 1st synchronized, mine doesn't love going into first on a downshift unless its barely moving. And 2nd-3rd has the little momentary hesitation that really helps it upshift. The blocking rings might be a bit worn (I think I might have slightly damaged the 2-3 ring on mine when rebuilding), but sounds like an old jeep transmission. I don't see any reason to rebuild it, especially if its not jumping out of gear or making funny noises. If you do decide to rebuild - I don't think you are going to see a huge improvement. But, it is a pretty simple rebuild - I think the Novak kit is only $166 or so if you don't need any big parts like gears - and it doesn't sound like you do:
    Parts for the Jeep T14 Transmission
    One big reason to rebuild is that it can really help any leaking with new seals etc, but really, if it isn't leaking, I'd just keep driving it. Plus, if you pull the T14, then you are probably pulling the D18 as well, and then you might as well rebuild that and well...it just keeps creeping.
     
  16. Sep 17, 2021
    Cj5dale

    Cj5dale Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Knoxville, Tn
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    It’s actually not leaking (too bad). Ive rebuilt my 2g carb, re stuck my distributor, and learned how to install and adjust points. Just simple stuff.

    But I’ve never done anything like rebuilding a trans before. Not sure I even have the right tools to do that.
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2021
  17. Sep 17, 2021
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    sounds just like me when I did mine...you don't need much in the way of special tools - don't need a press or anything like that. Everything else is what I had in a typical small hand held toolbox. Seal driver or bearing race driver kit is nice - but I didn't have one at the time and just used cheapo brass drift from FLAPS and random sockets i had sitting around - oh and a snap ring plier is good as well. I literally had no special tools and only spent about $20 on the brass drift and snap ring pliers, and then you need some different RTV/gasket sealants. Its a lot more time cleaning (and painting if desired) than anything else. Pulling and installing the T14/D18 is more work than the rebuild. And again, it doesn't really sound like you need to do it.
     
  18. Sep 17, 2021
    tomasinator

    tomasinator Member

    Redmond, WA
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    My '70 cj5 had the same shifting problem you describe, except it happened shifting between 2nd and 3rd. I ordered a Novak rebuild kit. As others have mentioned, the synchronizers made of brass, had worn out.
    [​IMG]

    I removed the transmission/transfer case in my garage and rebuilt it myself. I've never opened a transmission before, but the Novak instructions were good. It probably took me a month working on it here and there to go from removing the transmission, rebuilding it, and reinstalling it. The removing it and reinstalling it was not too fun, but rebuilding the transmission was fun. You can do it! Isn't there a member here on ecj5 who can remove and install a transmission in under an hour?
    [​IMG]
     
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  19. Sep 17, 2021
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Here is my rebuild of the T14...the first post starts with my finished D18, but then it goes into detail on the T14. As said above, if you go through the trouble of removing and rebuilding the T14, then I'd do the D18 as well.
    Fino's 1970 Mini Build Thread

    Sorry about photobucket messing up the photos, if there are any you want better quality, I can get them. Maybe one day I can reload them from B-pix hosting instead of photobucket.
     
  20. Sep 17, 2021
    Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2022 Sponsor

    East Tennessee
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    At least try adjusting the clutch before you dive into a rebuild of the transmission. Just tighten it a little and see if that helps.
     
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