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Jeepster Questions

Discussion in 'Jeepster Commando and Commando Tech' started by cmj, Sep 12, 2021.

  1. Sep 12, 2021
    cmj

    cmj New Member

    pa
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    I have two 1971 jeepster commandos that in going to make one good one out of. One is a 225 with t14a, other is 225 with auto. Probably going with the t14. Im building it for my wife but making her do a bunch of the work so she knows how much time is involved. She says old jeeps need to be manual not auto. Going to keep it original as possible with 31 inch tires, no bigger.

    One has heavier leaf springs. auto has 5 leaf front spings and 6 leaf rears. other has 4 leaf front and 3 leaf rear springs. Im thinking of using the heavier leaf springs. any disadvantages other than stiffer ride?

    It has drum brakes all around and no power brakes. was thinking I can get a narrow track cj axle with disc brakes or wide track and add spacers to the original rear to make them the same width. It has 3,73 gears. And a cj brake booster?

    Any help or ideas will be appreciated.
     
  2. Sep 13, 2021
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Florida Keys
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    I would run the softer springs if it were my Jeepster, provided they are not sagged out. Many Jeepsters even came woth a monoleaf (single leaf) rear spring. What are you planning on hauling? Mostly used for backroads? heavy offroad? ???
    If both Jeepsters are complete on their tires, jounce the front and rear up and down on both to see how the springs feel. Make sure the shocks aren't locked or too stiff though. Decide which sit and feel the best. Soft is better to me.
    The TH400 is nearly indestructable and with a simple shift kit (about$30-40?) will provide nice firm shifts. The T14 is a fairly light duty transmission, not known as the best shifting 3 speed. Then you have the clutch and control cable. If I already have the automatic, that would certainly would be my choice. A Jeepster in a bit more civilized than most "old Jeeps" and I think the automatic suits them.
    The 10" drum brakes are more than adequate for a stock powered Jeepster, provided they are in good working order. I think the '71s already have a D30 up front. You could add a power booster if you really think you need it. Jeepsters could come with both power brakes and power steering as options. '71 is the best year for the early (pre-bullnose) Jeepsters.
    -Donny
     
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  3. Sep 13, 2021
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    Pretty sure it's still a 27...mine is late 70 and it's still closed knuckle.
     
  4. Sep 13, 2021
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    You'll have problems with fender clearance unless they've been cut.
     
  5. Sep 13, 2021
    OzFin

    OzFin Vintage Jeep Guy

    Michigan
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    Jul 16, 2007
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    Here is an interesting tire fitment chart produced by JP magazine some time ago.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Sep 13, 2021
    jackdog

    jackdog Member

    Finger Lakes NY
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    I went with narrow track D30/D44 w/11" brakes on my build and I'm happy with the results. I also used the heavier springs because I like the look of the stance they provided, ride isn't bad either.
    What part of PA are you in? I have a lot of left over parts.
     
  7. Sep 13, 2021
    cmj

    cmj New Member

    pa
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    Close to carlisle.
    The front springs on the "softer" one looks like one is bent a little. Both jeeps had plows on them one time but wont when im done.
    It will be my wifes jeep and she says old jeeps need to be manual not auto. No heavy off roading, easy trails or dirt roads.
     
  8. Sep 13, 2021
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    Hands down I would go automatic. T14 and it's cable clutch too finicky for me. Replacement parts maybe, but not high quality,
    I always had trouble with my long left leg hitting the door/window handles (and maybe the steering wheel) while trying to operate the clutch pedal.
    To each his own, but it would be the auto for me.
     
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  9. Sep 13, 2021
    cmj

    cmj New Member

    pa
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    My front axle is a 27. Im guessing I have to change the perches if i put a narrow track d30 in it?
    I would rather her have the auto. Anyone convert them to hydraulic? I was going to do that to my cj5 but then parked it for now. I think I have a slave cylinder and master from a wrangler laying around.
     
  10. Sep 14, 2021
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    27 to 30 swap is pretty close to a bolt in...do a search here & it's been covered many times for CJ's.
     
  11. Sep 14, 2021
    jackdog

    jackdog Member

    Finger Lakes NY
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    When I put the D30 in it was a direct bolt in. If you are going to stick with the T14 I would go with a hydraulic set up, the cable set up never worked right. There is a lot of info on this site about the conversion. Clutch Woes
     
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  12. Sep 14, 2021
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Certainly the TH400 is the tougher and more durable option. You can build the TH400 to be snappy and responsive. Could even be made manual shift; just no clutch pedal. I drove a '72 with an automatic around town back in the day, and never noticed bad ergonomics. Seemed fine. I'd want better brakes with an automatic.

    The T-14 will get better fuel economy. It's just adequate in strength with a V6 IMO. I like to shift, and the T-14 is an easy shifter. I'd check out the knee/handle issues.
     
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  13. Oct 13, 2021
    cmj

    cmj New Member

    pa
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    next questions.
    Hei or stock distributer? I put a cheap ebay hei on my cj years ago and it ate the cam gear.

    Carb? just rebuild the original one? Engine will be stock.
     
  14. Oct 14, 2021
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    I've run stock distributors and HEI...my choice would be the stock Delco distributor with a Pertronix kit.
    Stock 2GC carb should be fine, simple & easy to work on.
     
  15. Oct 14, 2021
    jackdog

    jackdog Member

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    If you go HEI use the cam gear from a old Delco dist. I also like the stock Rochester carb.
     
  16. Oct 16, 2021
    jeepdaddy2000

    jeepdaddy2000 Active Member

    Eagle Point oregon
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    A couple of thoughts....
    The T14 is a nice shifting transmission, but really light duty and replacement parts are few and far between. I would opt for the slush box simply because it is virtually unbreakable.
    71 should be a 27 closed knuckle. Perfectly adequate for most wheeling situations. A good upgrade is a powr lok LS, which can help eliminate much of the shock loads which tend to grenade open diffs.
    10" brakes are adequate, barely. A simple upgrade is 11" brakes off a similar year Wagoneer. These used to be easy to find, but as the years progress, are becoming harder to source. Front disks are another common upgrade and there are plenty of DYI instructions and kits out there.
     
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