Tie Rod Flip With Ross Manual Steering?

I have read all of the tie rod flip threads, however a question remains;

59 CJ, 2.5 inch suspension lift, Mahindra Roxor Dana 44 axle. I would like to do a tie rod flip. Although it is unclear to me if this is feasible with a Ross steering box?

Before I order the inserts, borrow the reamer and order custom tie rods, I want to make sure I’m not crazy and wasting my time and money to ensure this project can be done. It seems like everyone that has done this upgrade has power steering which changes the geometry and installation angles over a manual steering.

I apologize if this question is too rudimentary, but I’m still learning here.

 

Post a pic looking straight on at the axle, tie rods, bell crank ect…

 

I'm not there physically seeing it, but it looks like it would work.

 

With a CJ axle, the improvement for the Ross steering was a one-piece tie rod kit. This would cure some of the bump-steer associated with the tie rod angle, though you's still have the high-angle connection to the bell crank.

 

Take a close look at your shock/tie rod clearance if you do the flip since the tie rod will be higher and not at one of the shock ends. The situation was different, but when I did the flip my shock body would would hit my tie rod at half turn. That require me to move my shocks to the rear of the axle.
also, I would confirm if you can run your shocks oriented the way you do. Some do, some don’t. I had to run mine shock body down which made it worse.

 

Also, way to go on the roxor axle…glad it worked out!

 

Just for fun...flip the tie rod ends now and just drop them in the knuckle holes. While they won't be completely in their home location, it will give you an idea of the final result.

 

VERY good idea!!
Looking at everything now, there should be plenty of clearance. Just now speaking with OK off-road one issue that was brought up was how the tie rod with the hole in it, and the bent angle it is at by design, when flipping this may cause some kind of geometry issue and rubbing. I will get into the garage and try flipping everything as is and see how it looks.

You are all so very helpful and patient. I think you all for your feedback.

 

you're telling me that the roxor doesn't have a 2 hole knuckle at the wheel????!!!!

 

No, It uses Y link steering.

 

why wouldn't they update that? isnt that old school?

 

If you can get the Y link. I would run a tierod from left to right and then run a tierod from the Bellcrank to the right side and flip everything. A tie rod flip will improve angles

 

Gentlemen,
What do you think of these images?

Its difficult to say what would work, as my Y-rod (I'll call it) is angled.

The tape measure is canted behind the TRE, which makes it look like there is zero clearance at the shock. However, it all looks pretty tight now that the knuckle TRE's are flipped.




Down Passenger Side From Top

Maybe if the Y-rod was straight, that would work. And find a Driver TRE that was off-set forward instead of on center.


Down Driver side from top

 

Try turning and compressing the spring if you can, that is when my interference was bad.
Also, have you checked your castor angle yet since who knows what angle the pads are mounted on the roxor axle? My shock/tierod was tight, and then I had to increase the castor angle after my lift which made the interference a little worse. (the right angle sure helped the jittery steering though)

 

So you’re saying reassemble everything back to stock?

 

No. I was suggesting to turn your wheels to the right or left because that is when the interference between the shock and tie rod would be worst. I did what you did and thought everything was tight but fine with the tie rod flip, and it wasn’t until I tried to turn tight and flexed the suspension until I saw the problem.

On the caster angle: people smarter than me said to make sure the caster angle is 5-7 degrees I think. Before you go through the effort of the tie rod flip, you should confirm your caster is correct. If you just put the same shim, or no shim in between your spring and axle pad then you may need to add a shim. I failed to do this and it required me to redo some work on alignment and tie rod. If you can measure it at home with an angle finder that gets you close.

 

With the smaller axle tube diameter of a D27 the shock is back farther and will clear a Y link setup. It does not look like you will be able to convert to a Y link. It however does look like you would be fine to do the tie rod flip and use the tie rods in the stock configuration (but flipped).
There is another option but it involves more mockup, thinking and fab. You can get offset TRE's from Ruff Stuff in 1 ton variety. That would entail more work.