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73 Commando Handling

Discussion in 'Jeepster Commando and Commando Tech' started by Robert Wight, Aug 1, 2021.

  1. Aug 1, 2021
    Robert Wight

    Robert Wight New Member

    Houston, Tx
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2021
    Messages:
    23
    To you guys with lifted Jeeps, I'm still working the 73 Commando. This is the one with a [​IMG] 304 that has a Holley 4160 mounted on the 2-barrel intake (still on the list to upgrade to a 4-barrel intake), and the T176 to a Dana 300 (basically, the driveline is from an early 80s CJ) with a 4" lift. Previous troubleshooting determined the engine was firing 30 deg advance to TDC.....

    I've done the following that could impact the handling.
    replaced the leaf springs, bushings, axle clamps (the PO attempted an axle under spring conversion) and reverted back to factory axle over spring, though with a 4" lift
    Saginaw box (the original one had bad seal leaks), I've adjusted the lash, but might still have more adjustment to do.
    installed the proper pitman arm and replaced the pitman arm to drag rod ball joint (PO drilled out the original pitman arm ball joint hole and installed bushings to make it fit the lift he installed)
    dropped down to 33" tires (PO had 35's that would drag the leading edge of the front fender) with proper balance.
    replaced the steering stabilizer
    All original ball joints feel tight, knuckles look good

    The commando will sway when letting off the gas above 50 mph, takes about an 1/8 mile to get it to stop. It will pull to the right when up shifting. I have not checked the alignment, but it doesn't pull more than expected on straight-level road. I 'm hesitant to bring it to a shop because I don't want a laundry list of "we'll fix the alignment, but first we have to fix this....." There is no sway bar on the commando. This is my first lifted vehicle.

    [​IMG] My question is, am I chasing a ghost, or is this the nature of a 73 Commando? [​IMG]

    I will say, the items replaced have helped, it used to sway above 35 mph, and take > 1/4 mile to get it to stop, if even possible to get it to stop.
     
  2. Aug 1, 2021
    58 willys

    58 willys Sponsor

    Millsboro, Delaware
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2010
    Messages:
    944
    Check the toe in on it in the front of the tires should be about 1/4" ifin my old memory is correct. Also check tire pressures front and rear
     
  3. Aug 1, 2021
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2003
    Messages:
    9,754
    That's hard to know without properly checking, which involves some mechanical work. See the FSM on knuckle bearing specs, etc.
     
  4. Aug 1, 2021
    jeep2003

    jeep2003 Well-Known Member

    Upstate NY
    Joined:
    May 30, 2006
    Messages:
    1,918
    you can check toe and caster yourself with a tape measure and angle finder. Also measure if its dog legging. Usually because the back axle isnt lined up right moving around for some reason. pulling could also be the front axle u joint seized up. does it have locking hubs or are they engaged all the time? It does sound like you have brake issues that you should sort out first. There are plenty of upgrades you can do
     
  5. Aug 1, 2021
    Robert Wight

    Robert Wight New Member

    Houston, Tx
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2021
    Messages:
    23
    Locking Hubs, though I upgraded from the OEM to a Warn 27-spine, 5-bolt. Confirmed the hubs are engaging/disengaging just fine when installed by rotating tires and looking for driveshaft spin.
    Think I forgot to mention above, both the front and rear axles are not original to the vehicle. The rear is an AMC model 20, the front is a Dana 30. There are remains of shock mounts welded to the axle tube. No gravel or rough patches when hand rotating on a jack, and the pumpkins were opened up and inspected, looked good on the inside.

    Hadn't checked the brakes beyond confirming they aren't dragging when the front is jacked up. It doesn't brake uneven, just pulls to the right when up-shifting. It doesn't exhibit the behavior when coasting, or down-shifting. Braking is nice and firm, no grab or pull to either side.
     
  6. Aug 2, 2021
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
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    23,596
    There is nothing intrinsically unstable about the Commando. Any vehicle that's softly spring and has a high center of gravity will lean around corners. The front springs on these vehicles had a thick pack like a CJ, which resists body lean. The rear springs were softer, but placed outboard to reduce roll. I drove a '72 belonging to the dealership all over the town when I worked there. It drove like a car.

    Suspension geometry has to be right. Usually more caster is helpful.

    The steering gear has an adjustment procedure, and it requires the gear to be out of the vehicle. Covered in the TSM.
     
  7. Aug 8, 2021
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    At the foot of...
    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2010
    Messages:
    7,110
    My 70 Commando is a "barn find"...the steering is very loose, and it does have a ton of body roll in the corners. I think this is a trade off with the softer springs, it rides a LOT better than my CJ. It doesn't have any of the weird handling quirks you're experiencing though.
     
  8. Aug 11, 2021
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Florida Keys
    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2014
    Messages:
    4,170
    Its my experience that when a vehicle "sways" when you let off the throttle is that the rear axle is steering the vehicle. I've had vehicles that when hard on the throttle, required a little steering correction to stay straight, then when you back off to shift, you have to counter-steer a little.
    When this happens, the rear axle is shifting whether under load, or not. In my case, it was soft bushings on the 4-links holding the rear axle, allowing the axle to shift around a bit.
    On your Jeepster, I would be looking for any soft/worn bushings on the spring ends, or worn pivot bolts. Take a close look at the spring eye bushings, especially if they are aftermarket poly bushings. I'm assuming your axle is firm and tight on the U-bolts (also no rubber pad between the axle and spring)?
    Either way, your getting some unwanted movement of the rear axle under power, which is "steering" the vehicle slightly.
    -Donny
     
  9. Aug 11, 2021
    Robert Wight

    Robert Wight New Member

    Houston, Tx
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2021
    Messages:
    23
    No rubber pad between the axle and springs.
    The bushings are all new along with the springs, though they might need to be retorqued now that I've driven it some.
    I've purchased new ball joints for the tie-rod and drag link, the current ones allow the rods to rock.
     
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