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Transfer Case Mount 67 CJ5

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Craig1953, Feb 28, 2015.

  1. Feb 28, 2015
    Craig1953

    Craig1953 Member

    Santa Barbara, CA
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2014
    Messages:
    76
    The mount for the transfer case on my 1967 CJ5, (V6, 3-speed transmission, two-stick transfer case) is completely worn out. I ordered a replacement online from Kaiser Willys that I thought would be the correct one, but it doesn't look like the one I need to replace. I'm not sure the new one will fit here. Here's a couple of pictures that show the worn out TC mount, the mount that I bought, and an ID Tag on my transfer case. The numbers on the ID Tag are: 300146-7 and 941479.

    1. Can anyone tell me if the part that I bought is the correct one?
    2. Can someone please post a picture of one of these installed?
    3. I know the transfer case is made by Dana, but what is the model?

    Thanks for your help!

    OLD TRANSFER CASE MOUNT
    [​IMG]

    NEW REPLACEMENT TRANSFER CASE MOUNT
    [​IMG]

    TRANSFER CASE ID TAG
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Feb 28, 2015
    wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    York, PA
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    Mar 6, 2004
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    The mount you purchased is indeed a different style than the one on your JEEP. Your current one is an offset style while the new one is designed to mount directly below, or in line, with the ear on the transfer case, thereby eliminating that "S" shaped piece of metal. The new mount is thought to be a better design. More effective and stronger.

    Your transfer case is the standard Dana model 18.
     
  3. Feb 28, 2015
    Craig1953

    Craig1953 Member

    Santa Barbara, CA
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2014
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    76
    Thanks, Dave. Does the larger diameter piece of the new mount go between the transfer case and the cross member, and the smaller disc-shaped piece go on the other side (bottom) of the cross member?
     
  4. Feb 28, 2015
    wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    York, PA
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    I know the large disc and rubber bushing sit on top of the x-member, between the it and the 'case. I just have a large washer on the bottom side of the x member but, the smaller disc may belong there instead. My stuff was all used and I had no smaller disc. I'm not sure how a new part like yours is supposed to go in terms of that small disc.
     
  5. Feb 28, 2015
    RJ'sCJ6

    RJ'sCJ6 Member

    Gibson, LA 40...
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    Jul 4, 2013
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    351
    It sounds like, according to Wheelie, the new bushing should mount directly under the t-case eleminating the "z". I have the same setup and also ordered the same bushing. However, to place the new mount inline and eliminating the "z" I will have to drill a hole in my crossmember to install the bushing.
     
  6. Mar 1, 2015
    wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    York, PA
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    Correct.
     
  7. Mar 1, 2015
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    Bonney Lake, WA
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    May 25, 2006
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    Or just use a motor mount biscuit from a 55-57 Chevy. Or any aftermarket poly body mount.
     
  8. Mar 1, 2015
    Craig1953

    Craig1953 Member

    Santa Barbara, CA
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2014
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    76
    Well, that was easy!. I think it took more time to get out the tools and put them away than it did to do the job. I expected the old nuts to be rusted on tight, but they came right off. When I removed the old worn out mount I found that the hole in the frame was actually a large "slot", larger than the outside diameter of the nut on the bolt that attached the old mount to the cross member. There was also a large washer and a bushing on the bolt, suggesting that originally there must have been another rubber disk under the cross member. Now the new two-piece mount made sense. The small rubber disc part of the new mount has a "shoulder" molded into it. The smaller diameter part of the disc fits in the slot, and the larger diameter part of the disc compresses against the underside of the cross member. Since the mounting point on the transfer case was not aligned with the "large slot", I had to lengthen the slot to get them to align. This was easily done with a hole saw on an electric drill. The bolt on the new mount also has a "shoulder" on it. The threaded portion is smaller in diameter than the rest of the shaft. That larger diameter shaft fits snugly in the holes in the rubber parts of the new mount and the threaded part goes through the transfer case mounting point. I found that the bolt was "too short" to go through both parts of the mount, the cross member, and the mounting hole on the transfer case and still have enough of the threaded portion protruding to attach the nut to it. I figured out that was by design. I took the jack out from under the transfer case to let it compress the top part of the new mount. The bolt was still "too short", so I put the jack under the bolt head under the bottom disc of the new mount and used it to compress that rubber disc. Now I could get the nut on. I was originally concerned that there was not any kind of lock-washer under the nut to keep it from rattling loose. But with the tension of the compressed rubber parts I don't think the nut will ever vibrate loose. At the risk of giving "too much information" for such a simple installation, I'm including the following pictures:

    OLD MOUNT REMOVED SHOWING S-SHAPED BRACKET, LONG BOLT WITH RUBBER DISK, TWO LARGE WASHERS AND STEEL BUSHING
    [​IMG]

    NEW MOUNT PARTS - NOTE SHOULDER ON BOTTOM RUBBER DISC AND ON BOLT
    [​IMG]

    OLD MOUNT REMOVED
    [​IMG]

    LOOKING UP THROUGH CROSS MEMBER SHOWING LARGE "SLOT"
    [​IMG]

    SLOT ELONGATED TO ALIGN WITH TRANSFER CASE MOUNT POINT
    [​IMG]

    I USED THE JACK TO COMPRESS THE BOTTOM DISC TO GET ENOUGH THREAD TO PUT ON THE NUT
    [​IMG]

    NEW MOUNT INSTALLED
    [​IMG]
     
    AKjeff likes this.
  9. Mar 1, 2015
    Wenaha

    Wenaha Member

    West Coast
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    Feb 6, 2014
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    415
    That should work OK. On vehicles that I have seen that are supplied with the round TC mount (such as the flat fenders), there is a metal cup welded to the top of the cross member that receives the bottom of the larger top piece. This centers the mount and retains it when side pressures are applied.
     
  10. Mar 2, 2015
    RJ'sCJ6

    RJ'sCJ6 Member

    Gibson, LA 40...
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    Jul 4, 2013
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    Wonderful short thread Craig1953, very well illustrated with all the pictures. We love pictures. Glad you were able to get your mount replaced without any big issues.
     
  11. Mar 2, 2015
    Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    Northern NJ
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    Dec 5, 2013
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    My factory setup and with the replacement bushing like yours. Everything bolted up perfectly with the factory offset bracket

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Mar 4, 2015
    RJ'sCJ6

    RJ'sCJ6 Member

    Gibson, LA 40...
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    Johns1967CJ5 so you used the new bushing with the "z" bracket?
     
  13. Mar 4, 2015
    Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    Northern NJ
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    Yes. The new bushing and z bracket went in without any modification and everything lines up. The new bushing appears a bit thicker but i am pretty sure the original lost a lot of its thickness over the yrs. The important thing is it worked without cutting or modifying the crossmember
     
  14. Mar 4, 2015
    RJ'sCJ6

    RJ'sCJ6 Member

    Gibson, LA 40...
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    Ok thanks for the info, but I'm guessing it would work either way, just a matter of if you want to put new holes into the cross member.
     
  15. Mar 8, 2015
    RJ'sCJ6

    RJ'sCJ6 Member

    Gibson, LA 40...
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    Jul 4, 2013
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    I also ordered a new t-case mount but decided to eliminate the "z" bracket. I did have to drill a hole in the crossmember in order for the mount to line up but I think I like this set up better since it seems that the mount is directly between the crossmember and t-case rather than it being offset. Again I think it's a matter of preference.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Mar 9, 2015
    Wenaha

    Wenaha Member

    West Coast
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    Feb 6, 2014
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    415
    I just installed my new engine in my CJ2A this weekend. The replacement rubber doughnut mount bolt was too short to attach the top bolt. Pulled my old (regional) stepped bolt and it was, indeed, about 3/16" longer. CLeaned up the old bolt and use it - perfect fit.

    Replacement motor mounts were too short too. Added a plate about 3/32" thick and everything went together properly.

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Mar 9, 2015
    68BuickV6

    68BuickV6 Well-Known Member

    Hesperia, CA.
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    Mar 12, 2012
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    2,160
    Glad to see it goes together well. I need to replace my mount, came from the PO missing....
     
  18. Apr 12, 2021
    MJRedJeep

    MJRedJeep New Member

    Phoenix
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    Nov 22, 2018
    Messages:
    6
    I know this a few years late, but I too just discovered my 1968 CJ5 with the Buick V6, T90C, Dana 18 T/C is missing the mount. What direction did you go for the installation? I’m ready to either drill a hole in the crossmember or fabricate a Z-bracket.
     
  19. Apr 12, 2021
    Mr Vaughan

    Mr Vaughan

    must be why i couldn't get it off...
     
  20. Apr 14, 2021
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Florida Keys
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    The z bar style in the top photo in post#8 is a later design, and in my opinion, a better setup.
    -Donny
     
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