1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Steering Geometry Question

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by boopiejones, Jan 17, 2021.

  1. Jan 17, 2021
    boopiejones

    boopiejones I can’t drive 55

    California east bay
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2020
    Messages:
    545
    F05B3E59-EF7B-44F2-A30A-CCC432FB7423.jpeg 5F421445-0AC1-4F1F-90D7-229F2A8C9C09.jpeg sorry the first pic is upsidedown.

    I have a Saginaw conversion and the tierod and drag link are currently parallel with each other. Problem is that they rub slightly on the passenger side leaf spring. So I was thinking a tierod flip would cure the rubbing, but it would cause my drag link to no longer be parallel with the tie rod. On my other jeeps, they aren’t parallel. But the difference there is that the drag link travels downward from the pitman arm to the tie rod. In this case, the drag link will be traveling UPWARD from pitman to tierod.

    Is this going to cause any problems with handling? Is there some better solution than a tierod flip?
     
  2. Jan 17, 2021
    boopiejones

    boopiejones I can’t drive 55

    California east bay
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2020
    Messages:
    545
    I suppose another option would be to add a small shim above the leaf spring. I would think even a 1/4 inch shim would give me plenty of clearance. Only downside there is that would lower the front by 1/4 inch and I already feel like the Jeep has a slight forward rake.
     
  3. Jan 17, 2021
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    No personal experience, but perhaps a better option is the 2-hole right hand knuckle.
     
  4. Jan 17, 2021
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2015
    Messages:
    6,656
    Do a tie rod flip, and also do it on the pitman arm. All geometries will be retained.
     
    Rich M. likes this.
  5. Jan 17, 2021
    Framer Mike P

    Framer Mike P Member

    Hopkinton, NH
    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2016
    Messages:
    217
    I would think you would want to flip the tie rod end at the pitman arm end.
     
  6. Jan 17, 2021
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,593
    I did the shim under the axle...I really did it because it helped increase the caster which really helped with steering, and it also provided just enough clearance to allow for the drag-link and TRE....McRuff made the caster shims - highly recommend.

    See my build thread for before/after photos....post 172 is the before, and post 189 is the after - here is the after:
    Fino's 1970 Mini Build Thread
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2021
    colojeepguy likes this.
  7. Jan 17, 2021
    Jw60

    Jw60 Sitting up n buckled down. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2008
    Messages:
    4,717
    caster angle shims would do the most bang for the buck if needed. It would rotate the axle with minimal change in lift.
     
  8. Jan 23, 2021
    Tom_Hartz

    Tom_Hartz Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    North Carolina
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2014
    Messages:
    478
    Adding more caster made my CJ much safer to drive.
     
    Fireball likes this.
  9. Jan 23, 2021
    RATTYFLATTY

    RATTYFLATTY I think you need a little more throttle

    Central MN
    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2007
    Messages:
    515
    My suggestion is to do a tie rod and draglink flip or get a straight(stock)pitman arm.
     
  10. Jan 23, 2021
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
    Messages:
    5,627
    X2
     
  11. Jan 31, 2021
    4dawudz

    4dawudz Dale

    ADK NORTHERN New...
    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2006
    Messages:
    166
    I did the wedge AND tie rod flip for the same reasons. so far (3 yrs.) I am pleased with the results! Just do it right!

    Dale
     
  12. Jan 31, 2021
    CHUGALUG

    CHUGALUG Member

    Silverton, OR
    Joined:
    May 11, 2019
    Messages:
    238
    I am only going by what I can see in these two photos but would your problem not go away if you rotated the Tierod End Clamp to a different position?

    I have a similar problem in that I have HD tube Tierod and Drag link tubes. And use Jam nuts rather then clamps and they come very close to each other if the points on the Nuts are not aligned properly. Also how did your Steering box end up so low. I have mine mounted so the input shaft is far enough below the Cross Member (though I do have a CJ5 crossmember) that I have room for the steering shaft coupler and my Drag link angles down to the double tierod end much steeper.
     
  13. Jan 31, 2021
    boopiejones

    boopiejones I can’t drive 55

    California east bay
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2020
    Messages:
    545
    I have rotated the clamps to their optimum positions. It’s still a really tight fit.

    Regarding the steering box being low, that work was done by the PO, so I’m not sure why they did it that way. It looks like the box could have been mounted an inch higher, but then the steering shaft would come into contact with the driver side motor mount bracket. In order to avoid that, the steering wheel would need to be at a steeper angle possibly putting stress on the u joints, or a slacker angle, putting the steering wheel in the drivers lap.

    I recently discovered that the driver side frame bushing for the leaf spring shackle was totally disintegrated, causing the eye of the leaf to rub on the frame. This caused a very harsh ride, and caused the Jeep to sit lower than it should. I ended up installing new bushings and slightly longer shackles to give me about 1/4 inch of lift.

    Seems like the problem is fixed for now, although it’s a fairly tight clearance. I’ll add a small caster shim which should fix the problem completely.

     
  14. Jan 31, 2021
    CHUGALUG

    CHUGALUG Member

    Silverton, OR
    Joined:
    May 11, 2019
    Messages:
    238
    I ran my steering shaft through the left side motor mount. The input shaft on my box is pretty much parallel to the floor/ground. I put a combination Vibration Dampener U Joint after about a 5-6" Stub shaft with the Coupler on the other end. Then up to a Heim Bearing on the Left frame rail and another in my case Double U-Joint and on too the bottom of the column.
     
    dozerjim likes this.
New Posts