D27a Axle Question

Sadly it looks like Bubba bottomed out at some point in the 1980s on a joyride and smashed the sphere of the “end of the axle” where the steering knuckle bearing cup race lies ( is that the right term for the end of the axle tube? Ears? Atlas?)

Anyway, the bearing cup was cracked and the crack raised a ridge in the casing. And, what’s worse, the bore for the bearing cup is deformed and the new race won’t press in easily.

What should I do? Sand down the ridge? Heat up the whole thing and try to reshape it? Grind /tig /rebore? Is it even possible to source replacement D27A housings?

 

The housing would have to deform a fair bit to crack the bearing race, not sure if you'll be able to fix that?

If it was me, I'd grind, file and sand the ridge out of the bore and see how far off the race is from fitting. A bore gauge or caliper could tell you how far out of round it is. If not too bad, I'd drive a new race in and set a bearing in to see how it spins. If it looks too far out of round (like it might crack the new race), you could try to straighten it...nothing to lose at this point. If all else fails, replacement axle housing is likely in order.

 

I kinda think that's more likely from a collision or overly enthusiastic hammer action, not from Rat Patrol action. When they see big air, typically these axles break the housing where the long tube enters, so the two axle shafts are no longer co-linear.

My next step would be to measure the bearing bore. The ridge may have resulted from the broken race working back and forth in the bore, scraping up the ridge. If the housing is terribly out of round, a new housing is warranted. Fortunately for you, these used axles don't have much value except as replacement parts, so you should be able to find a used replacement easily/cheaply. Just get the complete axle - there will be no difference in cost or availability between a complete axle and a housing. New replacements are non-existant, and housings without gears are likely scrapped. Or you could do what everybody else wants to do, and upgrade to a 30.

 

Thanks for the feedback Tim and Tim.

The new race measures 1.688." The bore is 1.731” parallel to the axle tube and 1.688” perpendicular to the tube. Also, measuring vertically up from the ground between the ears on the drivers side vs the passengers side is off by 0.03.”

 

27 fronts are a dime a dozen, give away things. I'd just source another one. I have one you can have, wrong coast though....

 

In your first photo, you can see where the cracked race has been fretting its way around on a clockwise rotation. I'd say its been like this for a while. I would try to scrape/file the ridge out, and maybe any other high spots, then see if I could get a new race in the bore. These taper bearings in this location don't need the precicion like they would on a pinion or other spinning application.
-Donny

 

Can anyone advise me as to whether I can remove/replace the leaky pinion shaft oil seal and slinger from the yoke side or does it need to be punched out from inside the differential housing behind the spider gears?

 

It can be done, just a bit more tedious getting the seal out with the pinion still in. There is a special tool that threads into the inner part of the seal, you may have enough room to pry it out, some have even drilled into the seal, screwed in a sheet metal screw and used that to pull/pry on...or slide hammer.

 

Just get a small cold chisel or a screwdriver you hate and punch through the seal metal body and pry it out. I have never replaced a pinion seal any other way.

 

Definitely a specialty tool and likely not available anywhere, but here is an example starting around the 3:00 minute mark of this video...

 

Actually, that looks like a Schley Products transmission seal removal tool. Probably a different brand but similar.
Schley Products® 96480 - Transmission Seal Removal and Installation Tool

 

Got another question about this axle now that it's torn down and I'm getting ready for the rebuild.

What are parts #53/54 (which are grey and not available from KW?) I asked Mike there and he said they are not found in a D27A 1966 CJ5 axle. #53 looks like it may still be pressed in the tube of my axle, and #54, if it's a brass washer, looks like it only exists on one side (passenger):

There's some sort of brass spacer that looks pretty thrashed still pressed in to one side of the tube:

And nothing on the other side:

And there is a brass sleeve on the short side of the axle shaft against the Bendix joint:

Finally - I have a question about the oil seals. I have not torn into the differential, and was hoping not to. But, since the inner axle oil seals are only accessible from the differential - do I have no choice but to remove all the gears to set in new seals? Thanks!

 

I am in the middle of this as well and am puzzled. I hope someone can help both of us on this.

 

I have a complete D-27 with warn hubs for $100.00 that came out of a '71 CJ-5. Also have a T-86 for $100.00. Would sell both for $175.00. come get um. Reside in Lincoln, CA

 

I agree, I have sent two to the scrap yard

 

It obviously depends on whether or not one is doing a complete restoration. But if not, I'm not spending a dime on rebuilding a D25 or D27. Just find a NT 30 and be done with it. Vastly superior in every way.