Steering Issue

I have a steering column and Saginaw steering box from a 1966 Chevrolet Corvair ( I think based on the steering wheel) that was installed before the 1980s. The steering is very loose primarily due to the lower part of the column not fitting in the column housing. What is this part and how can I fix it? I've priced replacement columns but I like the one I have aside from this issue. I can drive it like this but the extra slack is really annoying at slow speeds especially with the approximately 4.25 turns it takes to turn the dana 27.

 

I suspect the the bushing in the end of the column is worn out.
In your third picture you can see it partially extended from the end of the column tube. Take a close look at this to confirm. By worn out I mean that there likely an excessive annular area between the inside of the bushing and the outside of the column shaft. Hopefully he shaft is not worn down, typically the bushing is made of a softer metal as compared to the shaft. Anyone with a lathe could likely make a new replacement for you.

 

Is there a technical term for the bushing that I could search for online? The lower bushing sticks out as you say and if I try and push it up won't stay due to too much clearance between the shaft bushing/bearing and housing, I say bearing because it rolls over freely like a ball bearing.

Thank you for helping.

 

how bad does it look to pull the steering column?

 

If you mean how hard is it to pull the steering column out, it's not hard, I had it out recently to make it easier to work under the dash while I was fixing the wiring.

 

Get a helper to slowly turn the wheel back and forth while you inspect each joint to see where the slop is coming from.

 

I already adjusted the steering box, and while all the rubber is dry rotted and will probably be the next problem, I currently think the rubber is so hard it's not giving any slop. I was looking at the spot in question while turning the wheel and noticed that because it's not in the housing as it should be it's flopping over a lot more left to right causing at least 10-20 degrees of dead space in the steering.

 

To replace the bushing the column will have to be partially disassembled at a minimum. The U-joint would have to be disconnected from the column shaft, then the bushing may be able to be pulled off the end of the column shaft. This may be possible to do while the column is still installed in your Jeep, if not the column will have to be removed. Once it is removed the shaft can be inspected and measured with calipers to determine the outside diameter, hopefully it will not be worn where it makes contact with the bushing. The inside of the column tube will also need to be measured to determine the appropriate size for the outside of the new bushing. The overall length of the bushing needs to be determined so that the correct amount of insertion into the column tube can be determined.
Typically I have found steering column bushings to be nearly a friction fit into the end of the column tube but often times there is a set screw that assist in holding it in. If you know what the column originally was for you may be able to find the correct replacement part.
I suspect that you will need to pull the column so that it can be more accessible to work on and you may want to inspect the upper bushing/bearing as well.
My local Ace Hardware has a selection of bronze bushings, perhaps you may find a local source for one or at least one that may be close enough in size that it could be turned on a lathe for a custom fit.

 

Thank you, those are very helpful tips!

 

You said you adjusted the steering box. Why? And what procedure did you use? What did you adjust? There are specific procedures to adjusting a steering gear and my experience is most people do it incorrectly and cause more problems than they solve.
I agree with the above posts that the lower column bushing should be inspected and sounds like that is worn causing play.

 

Try this listing: https://www.oerparts.com/product/c1003.html

Here is another listing but expensive: https://www.opgi.com/chassis-suspen...MI_MGCpMbi6gIVchatBh3-HgrtEAQYASABEgJkYvD_BwE

 

I followed a guide I saw online. I jacked the wheels off of the ground, keepimg the wheels forward facing, I loosened the set screw, and then tightened the inner adjustment screw, after feeling resistance I backed it off a half turn and checked the steering for resistance to see if it was binding, it was not. Also made sure the screw did not go all the way into the box as a warning inditated that if it went down that far the sector shaft was worn out and further adjustment would be dangerous.

To answer the why, I was looking at all of the steering linkage for reasons for the horrible steering sloppiness. I knew the lower column was an issue but I wanted to fix any other glaring issues. I have made mistakes before fixing stuff so if there is a better way to adjust the saginaw box please let me know. The steering feel did improve quite a bit with the adjustment as there was no resistance before and there is a little bit now. I'm currently just driving my kids in it in the yard as I get the kinks out and test new parts and fixes. This jeep wasn't the best put together before I got it and even though it was stored indoors in a very low humidity environment most of it's life it still wasn't driven for all but 30 minutes early in my life. I'm fixing lots of neglect.

 

The TSM specifically tells you not to adjust the gear mesh (small screw) until you have adjusted the end play (big nut on the input).


"Damage" - obvious. "Improper steering response" - binding, I presume.
Correct procedure is on the bench, end play first and then gear mesh.

Up to you - which do you trust - the TSM or an anonymous source on the internet?

 

So I've dropped the steering column before to get better access but it looks like the box is integral to the steering shafts, which requires I pull the steering wheel, remove the column housing, unbolt the steering box and remove the entire unit as 1 assembly, there are no removable joints between these things. From what I read else where Chevrolet added dis-connectable joints in 1967 cars like the Nova. I could cut the shaft and make it separable but that seems like a lot of work to fix the lower steering column bearing issue. I'm starting to wonder if I should just save up and wait to replace more parts.

 

I do have a 1967 Camaro steering box sitting on a shelf that appears functional and in good condition, I wonder if that would work as replacement box to assemble a new steering setup for, from what I've seen the simple steering columns are not that expensive. It seems to be a similar size but I'm not sure of the turning ratio.

 

The third picture you posted shows the lower end of the steering column and first universal in the assembly. The bolt that passes through the shaft should be removable. Unbolt that and the column should separate from the joint. On another note, most GM columns use a spring on the lower end to keep upward pressure on the lower bearing for retention. Good luck

 

I have removed the through bolt and while it looks like it should separate I haven't been able to encourage it enough to separate the 2 pieces. I guess some PB blaster might help.

 

That first u-joint at the base of the column will separate from the main column. That nut should be a locking nut, and the setscrew its locking looks to have the head ground off. You may have to cut a slot in it, or worse (vicegrip) to get it loose.
Your steering wheel looks like a '63 or '64 Corvair. If you need rebuild parts for the column, look up Clark's Corvairs up in Massachusetts. He should be able to supply anything you need Corvair.
-Donny

 

Looking at the first pic, I don't see a set screw in the universal joint. You may simply need a lower steering column bushing. If not available, they can be easily made by a machine shop.