Intermediate Front Fenders

Has anyone ever tried to separate the double layer panels on the rear half of the fenders? There seams to be corrosion between them forcing them to pucker along the front edges.
Is it worthwhile to try and repair or just buy new fenders? The rest of the fender is in good shape.

 

I would fix the stock fenders if at all possible, the re-popped fenders are not the best. My Jeep came with off shore fenders on it, I cut the inner fenders out of some factory fenders and welded them in the re-popped fenders to reinforce the off shore fenders. They came out OK, but it was a lot of work to make them right.

 

I would repair what you have. You can drill out all the spotwelds to separate the pieces, then I sandblast the rust away before using panel bond to re-assemble. There have been some NOS overlay pieces on eBay, and there may be aftermarket overlays too, at least for the early short style.
-Donny

 

Intermediate-late fenders seem rather plentiful. Pick an arbitrary year and search on car-part.com - lots of them in the yards, apparently. I would try Donny's suggestion first.

 

I have personal experience on the terrible quality of aftermarket fenders. I ordered and returned 3 pair of Omix and Crown fenders because of dents, poor seam alignment, excessive spot welds, etc. The 4th set that arrived were still terrible and required 2 hours of labor time at my body shop to make them serviceable.
I hoped to have better luck with a aftermarket windshield frame but returned 2 of them because of terrible construction. My old rusted windshield frame is now being repaired.

 

To follow up with my earlier reply (post#3), the ebay seller has both right and left original panels to repair the intermediate front fenders; item # 1237 3842 9542. Open this item, then select view sellers other items" to find the other side.
I do believe these pieces are not aftermarket crap, but rather the real deal.
-Donny

 

Thanks for all of your replies. I absolutely agree with all your post. I did look at a pair of slightly used after market fenders at a pick and pull. I was not impressed at all, someone had mounted them and had trouble with all the bolt hole alignments. you also could tell inner wheel well liner area was not in the same position as a factory fender and adjustments had been made.
I agree with your suggestions of repairing my factory fenders. Mine are in really good shape except the overlays, up front leading edges of them is in very good condition not any bends at all. One fender has a small quarter size rust hole on the inside panel behind the overlay. Both overlays are in exceptionally good shape except for the between panel corrosion issue.
My body work experience and knowledge is limited. However I have to repair some small spots in my front floorboard area, that would be a good place to learn. I do have a new to me large sandblast cabinet big enough for a jeep fender. Probably a good time to try it out.
Thanks and please post any more thoughts. Jim

 

I was going to ask the very same question as the original post. This forum is the best....

 

When you start working on your fenders post up and we can learn how together.

 

Drill the spot welds out from the back and save yourself some finishing on the outside

 

I was wondering if that was the best way since I had never tried it.
Also can you recommend a good quality spot weld cutter and where to buy them?

 

i use a sharp 3/8 drill bit,the spot cutters tend to walk around on old rusty steel. some sandpaper will help locate the dimples where the spots are. go easy as inevitablysome will be missed on the first go round

 

I've had decent luck with Eastwood's spotweld cutter: EW Skip Proof Spotweld Cutter The pilot drill is spring loaded so it doesn't drill though the backing piece.

It's good to center punch before drilling so it doesn't walk. Replacement cutters are expensive EW Replacement Spot Weld Cutters 3pk so I always use oil when cutting and am careful not to overheat the bit.

There is definitely some technique involved, but after doing a few, you get the hang of it.

 

Note, there are much cheaper cutters on Amazon, but I have no experience with their quality: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=spotweld+cutter&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

They might be a better deal.

 

Thanks I give that 3/8 bit a try. I have a cheap spot weld cutter I bought at Harbor Freight but have not tried it yet.

 

IIRC Robert (MP&C on Garage Journal) uses a cut-off disk in a die grinder to release spot welds, as I recall. I suspect you could take off most of fused metal with the drill, and carefully grind to release the fender steel from the overlay. Likely patience and persistence will be rewarded.

MP&C Shop Projects - Page 128 - The Garage Journal Board


If you are going to panel-bond the overlay back to the fender (after rust removal) you don't care about grinding away the steel of the fender. It will be hidden.

 

This is from my son's 65 cj front fender, but it is the same idea.

 

I have done this too. also a properly set up plasma cutter will do it too,with more risk of unwanted damage.

 

I have had decent luck with the HF spot weld drill.

 

I bought one on amazon that comes with extra cutters and it is working good so far, except that it wants to walk when I first start, even with a punch marking the center first.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T8HZ422/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1