Hydraulic Clutch Trouble

I am just finishing up a winter project on my cj6. I have 2 problems.
I changed out the t90 for a t15 behind the 225. I used swinging pedals from an intermediate and the Novak clutch master and slave. I also changed out the Ross box for a power Saginaw setup.
My problem is not enough travel on the clutch fork, wont completely release. Best I can measure with my brother working the pedal, I have near 1in of travel at the outer end of the fork. I thought this would be enough. I used the Novak adjustable throwout bearing also. The pedal is much harder to push now than it was with the floor pedal and rod setup. What am I doing wrong??
The other problem is the brakes. I have bled many brakes without any issues. I used an 8in booster and an intermediate master cylinder and I think this proportioning valve https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Propo...ke+booster+and+proportioning+valve&qid=158837
I still cant seem to get all the air out of it. On 1st press, the pedal still goes nearly to the floor, 2nd push is much better, 3rd push gives a hard pedal and great brakes. What did I do wrong again??
TIA

 

If the pedal gets better with multiple presses, adjustment is needed. You didn’t elaborate on the type but I’m suspecting drums.

 

Disc front and 10in drums on the rear.
Do I need to do anything different from bleeding the farthest wheel 1st and working my way to the closest?

 

some disc brake conversions require a check valve. some proportioning valves have it . some dont.

 

Bench bleed the MC by itself and level. Be sure to adjust the rear brakes up good before bleeding. Push pin in on proportioning valve while bleeding. As for clutch, was the pilot bushing a bit tight, causing the input to rotate? Can you start it in 4th gear with clutch pushed in possibly? Then run it for a minute with the clutch held in, freeing up the pilot a bit?

 

What exactly does the pin on the prop. valve do when bleeding? I know it's for the brake fault light.

 

Regarding the clutch scroll down to my post. Pm me if you need more help.
What Did You Do To Your Jeep Today?

 

As far as your clutch goes I'm in the same place. Just installed Willwood slave and M/C and can only get 1 inch of travel. Supposed to have approx. 1.5".The troubleshooting instructions gave 2 causes: The M/C push rod is not going it's full stroke or air in the system. I marked the push rod when the clutch pedal was fully depressed and then removed the M/C from the Jeep and depresses the push rod until it bottomed out and it was at the same mark. Rule that out. I then bench bled the M/c and will put it back in today, fingers crossed.

 

Fellas measure the distance from center of pivot ball to rod attachment point for the slave. You cannot be more than twice the distance of that from pivot to center of to bearing. 2:1 maximum most mechanical - cable mechs have the attachment much further out. Slaves only travel about 1.25 so if everything is right at the clutch regarding pilot bushing, to bearing, bellhousing index, pivot ball, clutch arm angle, to bearing air gap there's not much mulligan room regarding slave travel. You'll need every bit of that 3/4" or so of movement at the clutch .
Carefully read Novak's tech page
The Novak Guide to Clutches, Linkages & Bellhousings for Jeep® Conversions

 

Pivot to slave attachment point = 4.5"
pivot to center TOB = 3"
If I'm looking at this right mine has about a 1.5:1. Is less than 2:1 acceptable?
Also I added a longer pivot stud, but the rest is stock.

 

In that matter you should be good. Look at other parameters.

 

Did a brake conversion on my Jeep. Went to power brakes and disc all the way around. I bench bleed the master cylinder in the Jeep, much easier. I gravity bleed, vacuumed bleed, still had air in the lines. Used Speed Bleeder and everything was done in half hour or so and you can do it by your self.

 

Agree with no residual valve needed because the master cylinder is above the plane of the calipers or wheel cylinders.

 

Thanks guys for the ideas. I just ordered a Wilwood 7/8 clutch master to push the 3/4 slave from Novak. We'll see. Wish me luck.

 

!@#$%^&* I'm pulling my hair out (and I don't have any to spare). I installed the 7/8 Wilwood clutch master and no help. I'm no better off than when I started with the Novak 3/4 master. Gotta be something else. I'm getting 1in of travel at the clutch lever on the 1st pump of the pedal, and gain another 1/4in on the second pump. Still not enough to release the clutch. I know that sounds like air in the system, but i have bled and bled. I used the clutch lever that Novak recommended. Would it help if i put in an adjustable pivot ball?

On my second new brake master cylinder, still no brakes on the 1st pump. This is my 1st time installing a proportioning valve, is there something special to do other than install and bleed the system? I have the tool to hold the pin in place for the light.
I have never in my life had problems with such small jobs like this.
HELP

 

How far from the pivot ball to the slave attachment?

 

i have honestly forgot that measurement. I'll get it tomorrow.
The clutch pedal goes 2/3 of its travel with normal resistance, but that last 1/3 is a bear.

 

Are you pushing the clutch release fingers too far all the way into the clutch disk? Are you sure the clutch disk is in the right way? Can you get the clutch to release without the slave by using a ratchet strap on the arm or similar?

 

6 inches, best I can measure