Try To Start A V6 225 That Has Been Sitting Awhile

I'm pretty much out of ideas, so it's time to check in with the experts here.

I decided it was time to actually start the motor that came with my Willy Truck purchase to see if it's a runner. The engine is a Buick V6, 225 odd fire, reportedly ran before the previous owner took the truck apart, but who knows.

It is mounted to the frame and I have hooked up what I think is the minimum amount of wiring to get the engine to fire. It cranks very slowly and does not get to the point of firing. Here's the set up:

• Exhaust manifolds are on, no exhaust pipe installed
• TH400 tranny is bolted up at the bell housing, but the flex plate is not bolted to the torque converter and the torque converter is not spinning when I crank the engine.
• I have a fresh battery with battery cable to the starter and a jumper cable from the battery negative to the engine (at the bolt that holds the starter to the block).
• I have a remote starter switch from the battery to the solenoid. I use this to crank the motor.
• I have a wire from the battery positive to the coil positive.
• Points and condensor distributor with wire to coil negative.
• Spark plug wires installed and new spark plugs.
• I suspected a bad coil, so I put a known good coil in from another vehicle.
• No fuel line hooked up. I have sprayed starter fluid in the 2G carb, but it really never even gets to the point of sounding like it is just needing fuel.
• No belts are hooked up (alternator, water pump, power steering)

When all the spark plugs are removed the motor cranks, spins freely and what seems like the appropriate speed. I have looked in all the cylinders while doing this and all pistons are moving.

When all plugs are in, it just cranks really slow and never fires. I have checked spark at all plugs and there is spark at all of them, but it looked like a pretty weak spark. So As I'm typing the only thing I can come up with is maybe something hinky with the starter. Would a bad or failing starter have this symptom of slow crank, only when the plugs are in? Any other ideas? Battery is showing about 12.5 volts at rest and drops to about 10 volts when cranking.
Thanks.

 

Battery voltage too low. Hook up a charger or jump another battery to help.
At the top of the carburetor, in the center of the carburetor, thru the bowl vent, fill carburetor bowl with fuel.
Pour slowly as it will burp with air; when it won't take any more, it's full.
If the engine fires, it will now idle for about 3-4-5 minutes on just the fuel in the bowl.
Of course, you can keep priming, or pump acc pump with fuel in the bowl.
Obvious of course, make sure rotor at #1 at TDC.

 

I would definitely make sure the points are clean and set to specification. Timing too.

 

are you sure plug wires are installed in cap correctly
prestolite or delco

 

Once it does fire (I’m unsure about this, so someone in-the-know please chime in), I’m wondering if an odd-fire will actually stay running without the torque converter bolted to the flex plate. I’m not sure if the rotational mass of the crank alone is enough to keep it spinning?

 

Following jpflat's recommendations, after the carb bowl is filled, operate the throttle to see if the accelerator pump is squirting fuel down the throat. Starting fluid should at least get you some signs of life if you have spark though.
Try a fresher battery.
-Donny

 

I've run numerous SB Chevys on the stand with just flex plates. They are fine, just that they rev instantly with a jab of the throttle!
-Donny

 

I figured an odd fire would have too much... potato... to stay running at idle.

 

Thanks for the replies. I'm back at it. I poured some gas down the carb and it all came out of the two holes at the base. I'v never had a 2G carb. What's the deal with the holes? Overflow vents?

I still need to verify all the other stuff mentioned, but I was thinking that would be a quick thing to do and test. Plug wires are routed correctly, but I need to verify distributor position.

With whatever gas did stay in the carb and using a battery charger on "start" the engine did briefly fire, so that's good. I don't need it full blown running; just firing enough to know if I'm going to keep it or ditch it for a V8. I am already concerned that the V6 won't have the power I'm going to want. The truck is HEAVY compared to a CJ. That and the power loss from the TH400 has me concerned.

Pretty sure if I keep it I will want to switch to a 4 barrel intake and carb, pertronix or HEI; all money that might be better spent on a V8.
I found a running Buick 340 for cheap. Yes - an odd ball engine with it's own issues, but it's a 4 barrel; probably 80-100 extra hp.

 

Been through this. Make sure you pop the valve covers and make sure the valves aren't sticking. They might seem free but if one decides to stick you have an instant bent push rod. I bent 4 rods so with the advise of my machine shop pulled the rockers and worked the valves loose with carb cleaner and ATF. Did this after work for a week and it did the trick. They said bad gas will exacerbate the problem so flush out that old gas and get all the varnish out of the tank and lines. It could also have frozen lifters if it sat too long. Just be careful and consider cranking it with the valve covers off so you can see what's going on.

 

After you confirm the valves aren't sticking, check the compression. If it's good and oil pressure it up you're probably ok and it's a damn good engine. Mine sat outside for 12 years and after some TLC I've been ripping around non stop and no complaints on power.

 

What model/year Willys truck do you have the V6/TH400 in?
-Donny

 

The first thing that comes to mind is you said a jumper cable for ground. I would put a good ground to the block first, you my not be getting a good connection. Then I would check the points, with power on, you can hold the coil wire close to the block and open the points with a screwdriver and it should spark. Then I would pull the plugs and try and crank it, it should spin right over, if not the motor may be freezing up, the bearing my be shot. Then I would put the cap on and see if you have spark at the plugs, if you do, then try cranking it and while spinning fan a little starting fluid into the carb, It should at least "Burp" a little, if it does, then start looking at the carb, and fuel system. Good Luck

 

Good point about the jumper ground. That's easy to rectify. I ran out of time to check anything else, but I will get back on it over the weekend. Thanks everyone for the good ideas. I'm no mechanic, I just enjoy impersonating one in my garage. Now I'm researching why the gas pours out the bottom of the Rochester 2G that's on there.

The Willys truck is a 1950, but I'm switching the front clip to the later v shaped, just because I like it better. I came to me disassembled with the V6 (and a T90,M18 TC I'm not using). I came a across the TH400 with a Dana 20, so I thought I'd try using those. I thought the tranny was a TH350 when I bought it. Learning as I go... again.