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More On My Rear Dana 44....

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by Lockman, Jan 31, 2020.

  1. Jan 31, 2020
    Lockman

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    Hey ....It's a Poem :)
    Anyway , I got my rear axles & case removed this afternoon. from my '75. Everything looks good ? The inner axles did not have any seal"s , either Side ???? , nor were there any shims at the case outer bearings.
    I thought I might find inner seals, but can someone enlighten me ?
    Driver Side Carrier & ID.JPG
     
  2. Jan 31, 2020
    OzFin

    OzFin Vintage Jeep Guy

    Michigan
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    Flanged axle, right?
    The shims would be under the bearing cone on the case, the seals at the outer end of the axle tubes.

    [​IMG]

    Edited to add picture.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2020
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  3. Jan 31, 2020
    Lockman

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    Thanks OzFin,
    My TSM is presently under repair , also.
     
  4. Jan 31, 2020
    OzFin

    OzFin Vintage Jeep Guy

    Michigan
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    Just FYI
    Here is a picture of my 74 D44 rear flanged showing the axle shaft and related components pulled out of the tube. There is also a seal in the end of the axle tube not seen in this image.

    [​IMG]


    This pictures shows pulling the bearing cone, this era of a Dana axle has the shims between the bearing cone and the side of the case.

    [​IMG]
     
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  5. Jan 31, 2020
    Lockman

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    Thanks again....This is great !
    What is the procedure or method used in removing those pictured from the axle ? What size press or method do I use to press the New bearing & lock ring back onto the axles ? And finally , the New bearings onto the case shafts ?
     
  6. Jan 31, 2020
    Lockman

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    Hello again Oz,
    I just searched and saw your posts helping out Brian back in 2011. I need a 20 Ton Press ! :waiting:
     
  7. Feb 1, 2020
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

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    I slice the old bearing retainer with a cut wheel till it’s almost cut through and smack the slice with a chisel breaking the ring and allowing the bearing and race off. And a big press like ten ton.
     
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  8. Feb 1, 2020
    Lockman

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    Thanks Jeff,
    I've read your post's also, my friend, & your advice helps a ton ! ( Get IT ....:lol: )
    Anyway , I've got a shot at a decently priced, used 12 Ton press today. Lets hope it works out. It's a good one, but I'd have to travel 120 miles round trip to Pick it Up ?
    I might be better off @ HF , locally ?
    Richie----------Lockman
     
  9. Feb 1, 2020
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

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    Unless your axle bearing is bad or the outer seal is leaking badly, I would not mess with pressing everything apart. Replace the seal in the end of axle tube and put it all back together! You can see where the seal rides just behind the locking ring in OzFin's photo.
    These parts (except that inner seal) generally last longer than the rest of the Jeep. You could be opening a can of worms, and the new replacement parts are usually not the quality of the original parts.
    Just my $.02
    -Donny
     
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  10. Feb 1, 2020
    Lockman

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    Yes sir Donny, The Crown kits do come with a Timken Bearing though. I was pleased to realize that : Ohio ; still made in America :flag:
     
  11. Feb 10, 2020
    Lockman

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    Hey Fellah's, How's it going ?
    I was able to get the shop warmed up to 45 degrees or so today & Got some accomplished . Old axle seals & bearing race's pulled & cleaned the tubes. New inner axle tube seals installed & right side old lock / retainer ring, axle bearing, outer seal , & retainer plate ( Painted ) installed, also.
    I also pressed the new Timken's on the new Trac-Loc case & swapped my existing ring gear to it. Used high temp red loc-tite & torqued the bolts .Took my time & all went well, but here's the holdup......
    Got the case back into the carrier only part way ? The bearing race's are about 2/3 of the way in, past the leading edge of the axle tube ends. :rolleyes: I think that the pinion , that was good and solid with no play & that I left in , is not fully meshing with the ring gear ? I"ve been turning , both ways , while prying forward on the case, but No Go ? :(
    Can Ya'll give me any tips or tricks on this ? I hated too , but I had to give up for today.........:waiting:
    Thanks,
    Richie
     
  12. Feb 11, 2020
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

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    I’ve used a rubber dead blow hammer to get them in. How did you determine how many shims you needed?
     
  13. Feb 11, 2020
    Lockman

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    Yeah Jeff, I appreciate your response. I have not determined shims yet. I thought that I could slip the case in & measure for the case end bearing shims with feeler gauge's ? Unfortunately , I can't slip the case in fully. I'm thinking that I need to Super Lube the pinion spline & the ring gear ? I was just using 80w-90, like my TSM said. BTW, On removal of the stock case, there were Zero shim's on either side ? . All was in very good condition , when I removed everything, so I did not remove the Pinion shaft ,bearings or shims . I left that all in place. I might add, that I'm doing this with the carrier & axle tubes in my Jeep. I have it hanging on the spring's with the shock's disconnected.
     
  14. Feb 11, 2020
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

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    I’m not a gear guy but have never seen a 44 with no shims.
     
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  15. Feb 11, 2020
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

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    Is it binding at the bearings? Or the ring gear hitting the pinion gear and preventing it from going in any further? (My concern is that the old and new cases are different series, and your ring gear is now too far to the right.)
     
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  16. Feb 11, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

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    the shims are under the bearings squeezed between the bearings and the case - they are very hard to see until you pull and remove the bearings - which usually destroys the bearings.

    edit- it sounds like you already pressed the bearings onto the Trac-loc case - the shims would have been under that? Did you put shims under the bearings and how much on each side? The shims both move the ring gear laterally as well as set pre-load....FWIW, when I installed an eaton locker, it took some hits from a dead blow hammer to get everything in, but the first time, I had too many shims total, and the preload was too much and it just wouldn't go in...Can you give us a bit more info on how you set-up the shims?
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2020
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  17. Feb 11, 2020
    Lockman

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    Thanks Ryan,
    Yes, the ring gear is just beginning to mesh with the pinion gear, but will not go in any further ? If I turn one the other does turn, but...….. It could be the different series case problem, I 've read about but have not checked ? I do not see any single series #'s on either case, so I don't know how to check ? The width each case, from end's of bearing shaft to the other side , are the same : about 7 1/ 8"
     
  18. Feb 11, 2020
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

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    [​IMG]
     
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  19. Feb 11, 2020
    Lockman

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    I have not removed the old bearing's from the original case, 'Cuz I pressed new Timken's on my new case. I'll do that tonight to see if there are shims under the bearings, but I looked that over for about a week, so they must be hard to see ! BTW , everything I had researched said to check for 0 to.006 gap for shims @ the end of the case shaft's between the axle tubes ends. Nothing about shim's under the bearing's on the case shaft's ? Perhaps I'm missing something & not understanding , so thanks so much for your response. I have been referring to your thread on how you did this job.
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2020
  20. Feb 11, 2020
    Lockman

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    OK, Got you. Duhhhh on Me ! ( I'm an Idiot )
     
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