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Carter Yf Throttle Linkage Questions

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 65CJ5 SRD, Oct 25, 2019.

  1. Oct 25, 2019
    65CJ5 SRD

    65CJ5 SRD Member

    NM
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    Hey all,

    I'm still trying to save the old Carter carb from my Jeep. My BIL helped me get it running, so at least it seems to be working. However, the throttle lever linkage will not tighten down on the shaft anymore. It's been scrunched too many times and/or scrunched too hard and now it looks like the photos show below. Disregard the stuff at the upper right that's bolted on, that's some extra pieces to make the throttle cable work when connected.

    So, anyone know if or how to affix it now? Or, anyone know where I might find a good one to replace it?
    Thanks

    P1020844.JPG
     
  2. Oct 25, 2019
    55_Willys_CJ5

    55_Willys_CJ5 Nephews Visit 2017 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    Try reaching out to Scoutpilot, a member here. He rebuilds and refurbishes the old carter carbs. He might have this piece available. Here is the link to his site: Home | Old Jeep Carbs LLC
     
    Mark T. and 65CJ5 SRD like this.
  3. Oct 25, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Take that screw out and force a flat blade screwdriver in there to spread it apart? Then try squeezing it back together with the screwdriver still spreading it. Use a vise or vise grip type pliers to squeeze it back. That's what I do with stuff like that. Should work enough so you can tighten it and make it hold.
     
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  4. Oct 25, 2019
    scoutpilot

    scoutpilot Member

    Asheboro, NC
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    Exactly what I would do. These parts don't grow on trees. As long as it isn't cracked, there's a good chance you can save it.
     
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  5. Oct 26, 2019
    65CJ5 SRD

    65CJ5 SRD Member

    NM
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    I did that once before this latest rebuild, but so has the PO (and who knows how many others) and what I'm worried about now is the metal is a bit soft and fatigued, and that bending it again will crack it apart.

    I looked at it again late last night and it looks like, as long as the lever is intact the way it is right now, all it needs to do is stay in place on the shaft, but it doesn't necessarily need to be kept there by a lot of clamping force. There's some room between the flanges of the part where I could slide in a collar with a set screw in it if I can find one the right size. Another option would be a threaded hole on the end of the shaft to put a screw and washer to keep it from coming off. I would have to take it to someone for that to be done.

    When the sun comes up I'll see what I have in the way of collars first. I have a lot of that kind of thing in some parts drawers.
     
  6. Oct 26, 2019
    65CJ5 SRD

    65CJ5 SRD Member

    NM
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    Yep. I've had no luck finding one so far. It would be pure luck to find one that matches and is still in good enough shape to be used.

    I'd like to get this fixed as it was the last problem I found working on it yesterday. Once this is sorted I think I can actually use the Carter for awhile and see how it does. This lever has to be locked into just the right spot so the idle adjustment screw seats against things correctly. Otherwise the idle speed is all over the place, which was the issue I was trying to track down yesterday when I discovered the lever was on the shaft but not locked down.
     
  7. Oct 26, 2019
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Probably a shim wedged into the flat spot would tighten it up.
     
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  8. Oct 26, 2019
    65CJ5 SRD

    65CJ5 SRD Member

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    I was able to use an eye bolt to tighten it down. I put the eye bolt in between the flanges of the lever and then slid all that onto the shaft and then tightened the eye bolt down with a nut. It looks OK and I think it will work OK but I plan to keep checking it.

    Still working through some other issues such as hesitation if the accelerator is pressed down quickly.
     
  9. Oct 27, 2019
    scoutpilot

    scoutpilot Member

    Asheboro, NC
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    You'll likely have to raise the metering rod slightly.
     
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  10. Oct 27, 2019
    Rick Whitson

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    Could you file the lever notch square again so it can tighten up on the shaft? Maybe heat it up and let it cool to anneal the metal so it don't break. Just a suggestion...……… Good Luck.
     
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  11. Oct 27, 2019
    65CJ5 SRD

    65CJ5 SRD Member

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    OK, another Carter carb question. How do you guys who have a Carter YF attach the manual throttle cable? I tried to set mine up the way it's shown in one of my manuals by attaching the push-pull cable to the plate shown in the photo below. That works fine as far as manual throttle goes, but the wire in the cable binds up inside the plate hole it goes through when trying to use the pedal for acceleration.

    Looks like one user addressed a binding problem here:
    Hand Throttle Options

    That's apparently on a Rochester carb, but I like the idea of the chain. Right now I have it working by using a couple of angles that I let pivot. Hard to explain, no pics of that right now. But I think there must be an easier/better way.

    So, does anyone here have pics of how they've attached their throttle cable on a Carter YF carb?

    linkage diagram.png
     
  12. Oct 27, 2019
    65CJ5 SRD

    65CJ5 SRD Member

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    Here's what I have in there now. First photo is at idle, second is when I pull the accel rod (simulating when you use the pedal), and third is the assembly itself. Hard to tell from the photos but when the rod is pulled back (normal pedal accel action) the angle pieces move with the linkage and the angle the cable is attached to pivots so it doesn't bind with the cable wire. Like I say, this is working but I'm thinking there's a better way that they used originally for this.

    P1020847_sm.JPG P1020848_sm.JPG P1020846_sm.JPG
     
  13. Oct 27, 2019
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I've never experienced any binding with the OEM set-up. It seems simple and effective.

    Was yours original, or possibly a PO's adaptation? The bend and the hole placement are critical.

    I'd suggest going back to the OEM style, as you show in the top picture, labelled "plate." Just make sure the cable tail is straight and smooth, and the alignments are good.
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2019
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  14. Oct 27, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Agreed. This should be smoother and will give better leverage for the hand throttle.
     
  15. Oct 27, 2019
    65CJ5 SRD

    65CJ5 SRD Member

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    The carb and linkage lever is original, but the setup with the angles is not something the PO did, I put that together trying to get it to work and the little angles are all I could come with. They do work OK but I agree going back to OEM setup is the best way if I can, but I don't know what an original OEM setup for the carb throttle cable looks like (all I have is the diagram above and it does not show everything in place with the cables). It's been a long time, but as I recall, when I got the Jeep the PO had simply left the throttle cable unconnected.

    I started with a piece of metal that I shaped and angled as closely as I could to what's shown in the diagram photo. Cable tail is reasonably smooth and straight but that's not why or how it's binding. What is happening is, as the accel rod moves, the whole linkage lever moves. When that moves, the "plate" moves too and the little hole travels along the cable's wire. So far so good, and it's fine until you get to a point where the plate is pushing down so much on the wire of the throttle cable that it stops the travel of the rod which is about halfway to full throttle. I tried everything I could think of with that plate setup and could not get it to work.

    It might be the original cable is longer than what I have, or it could be the path the cable is on is different, or the way it's connected or something else I've done wrong somewhere but I need to see an original setup to know. I'm hoping some folks might have photos of their original setup so I can get a sense of cable length and path/placement.

    BTW, this all worked OK on the Solex carb but its linkage setup is a bit different. Part of what they did was they let the cable clamp for the throttle pivot a little and that combined with the slightly different linkage setup allowed that one to work.

    Does the clamp holding the throttle cable in place (up top) pivot on the original setup?
     
  16. Oct 27, 2019
    65CJ5 SRD

    65CJ5 SRD Member

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    OK, I studied the diagram photo above and then went back out and reshaped the "plate" part. The top version shows how it is now with the new bend, the bottom version is how I had it originally. Dotted lines are where the center-line of the hole is. Difference is now the hole is much lower, and the cable wire goes in at a low angle. This does seem to work without binding.

    Unfortunately, I still can't seem to get the carb to hold a reliable idle speed, and it has a terrible hesitation when you push the accelerator down right at the beginning of travel. Otherwise it's OK. I'm probably going to have to go back to the Solex again. It's very frustrating after all the time and effort I've put into trying to "rescue" the original carb.

    Plate Bends.png
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2019
  17. Oct 27, 2019
    65CJ5 SRD

    65CJ5 SRD Member

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    Is that to try and fix the hesitation?
     
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  18. Oct 27, 2019
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    The hole should be right AT the bend in the plate, to avoid binding as the assembly rotates.

    It was engineered to be that way. Pure genius. Who are we to question it?
     
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  19. Oct 27, 2019
    65CJ5 SRD

    65CJ5 SRD Member

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    True! My problem was that part was never there so it was hard to figure out. That seems to have worked. Now I have to figure out the hesitation problem.
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2019
  20. Oct 27, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

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    Do you have the proper base gasket? It should be notched for the vacuum port at the bottom of the carb.
     
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