Rebuilding Warn M2 Hubs

Mickey I know it's been a while but I'm at this step with mine. How did you get the screw un-staked? Mine is an allen head with one stake. Did you drill it out?

 

Also does anyone know what this hole on the back side of the body is for?

 

First, take your time and DON'T force it. I did that once and stripped out the Allen head. What I found having rebuilt 4 sets so far, is that the staking is not that big of a deal. I did not have to drill any out. What I did was take a pick (pointed shaft) and a small tack hammer and put the point in the grove that is part of the screw recess and a light tap to pop out the part that created by the stake. Do each side pushing the pick towards the crater left by the staking. It pops out the little deformed piece of aluminum. Then the screw will turn. There really is very little deformed metal created by the staking. Hope my explanation makes sense. If not I'll go take a pic with the one I have apart on my bench.

 

I asked that question too. As I recall, it is only on the later ones. Never got an answer. The earlier ones have a standard slot screw instead of the Allen screw. A Brief History Of Early Warn Hubs For Jeeps

 

It remains a mystery then. Someone in the "Care and Feeding" thread mentioned losing a spring and ball? Don't see that on the exploded parts diagram, could that be it?

Looking at the wear on the teeth of the Axle Shaft Hubs - does this seem about average and serviceable?

 

First the disclaimer: I am no expert with proper credentials and do not do this at home as we are not trained professionals. Now that that's out of the way. Looks workable to me. Remember, once engaged, the whole depth of that area is used, not just the top edges. The ball and spring mentioned, are, I believe, as a no expert opinion, are the stop you feel as you reach the Free and Locked positions. The are on the back of the brass center knob and drop into the the recessed hole in the base as it reaches the end. That has nothing to do, in my unprofessional opinion, with that extra hole you mentioned to start with. Hope this helps.

 

FYI, the set I rebuild for my Wille which are the older style based on the way the wording is on the brass knob, have been tested and seems to be working fine. I've driven them locked and unlocked for quite a few miles, as well as in 4 wheel so I guessing my unprofessional rebuild worked. I will give them a real test starting next week when I take him to the mountain cabin for some forest roads and then to the Colorado Falls Colors Tour. But right now the brass knob turns easy and they engage. I was nervous starting out but they really are pretty simple and doable.

FYI, the extra 2 sets I rebuilt at the same time, I am going to sell. If interested contact me for pics before I list on eBay. I will get listed in the for sale section soon. But anyone who wants a jump, contact me.