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Hydraulic Clutch Linkage Kit

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by Iandavidh, Apr 1, 2019.

  1. Apr 1, 2019
    Iandavidh

    Iandavidh Member

    California
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    Sep 24, 2018
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    398
    Hydraulic Clutch Conversion AMC Jeep CJ5 CJ7 CJ8 5.0 Mustang FREE SHIPPING

    Anyone had any experience with this kit? And will it work on my Jeep?

    1973 cj5, 285, T18 tranny(not sure of origin), not sure what clutch is in it(haven’t had the Jeep long enough), have the stock mechanical linkage right now that has been fighting us ever since i’ve owned it(about two years)

    I know this topic has been beaten to death but I need a sure answer before I go buying wrong parts
     
  2. Apr 2, 2019
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
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    Jan 15, 2011
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    From what i see is the same parts that i put on my amc v8 and t18.
     
  3. Apr 2, 2019
    rejeep

    rejeep Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Rochester, NY
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    Nov 5, 2009
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    1,691
    you can buy the kit from any auto parts store..
    dont quote me without searching... but i think that's a CJ iron duke slave and YJ master.. or similar.
     
  4. Apr 2, 2019
    Iandavidh

    Iandavidh Member

    California
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    Should I worry about the pushrod length on the slave cylinder? I’ve read about people having problems with it being too short or long.
     
  5. Apr 2, 2019
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    Anything will work on your Jeep............But what do you have to work with?.........getting enough travel in a Hydraulic slave system is all about Bore x stroke which equals volume......and how much that volume will move the slave piston......along with the proper ratio at the clutch pedal and fork in the clutch can.........everything is mechanical in a fluid sense..........you will have to build a few things to get it mounted correctly..........

    I would be most interested in the bore sizes of both pistons and the travel ability of the slave piston........
     
  6. Apr 2, 2019
    IrishCJ6

    IrishCJ6 Member

    Wicklow Ireland
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    Dec 6, 2010
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    I'm glad someone has brought this up as I'm having terrible trouble with my clutch ever since I changed to the T18.

    I don't want to hijack the post but as it's related I didn't want to start another post on the same grounds

    I've currently got the late model CJ/YJ master and slave combo which I believe is 13/16 and 7/8 respectively. The pedal is from the later CJ/YJ and uses basic factory mounting points. I have an adjustable pushrod on the slave. Note all parts are new including the clutch. The issue I've been experiencing is that you adjust the clutch lever to the point of slight freeplay with the slave in the most compressed position. The clutch works fine but after a few uses of the clutch the clutch starts to slip and the pushrod becomes rock solid or over extends and pushes the pushrod out of the slave. I have tried everything I can think of to rectify this and I'm not getting anywhere.

    Maybe someone can suggest something.
     
  7. Apr 2, 2019
    Iandavidh

    Iandavidh Member

    California
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    Sep 24, 2018
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    “Master Cylinder has 15/16" bore and 2" stroke, can be converted to remote reservoir.
    Slave Cylinder has 15/16" bore and 2" stroke.
    36" braided hose has 7/16-24 male ends that adapt to female 7/16-24 inverted flare ports.”

    It looks like my firewall is already cut out for the master cylinder.
     
  8. Apr 2, 2019
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    15/16" and 15/16" is OK which equals 1:1 .........but may be a little large on the master side for some mechanical leverage advantage to help move the Slave.......that can be helped by changing the ratio at the pedal...........Like I said just about anything will work as long as you have the ability to adjust the ratio's to meet your needs and also adapt the parts to your firewall and clutch can............lots of different ways to do this and not one is the best.........but most times it's what your parts and equipment needs...

    What type of clutch pedal to you have? Is it swing pedals or coming out of the floor? Year of vehicle? .........

    Also just about everything offered there is basic OEM parts as was mentioned above by "ReJeep" for say a 80's vintage CJ5.........take a look at Rock Auto..........the master is worth about $15-20 bucks and the slave about $10-12 dollars............not saying this is the right way to go......but that's a big savings!!
     
  9. Apr 2, 2019
    Iandavidh

    Iandavidh Member

    California
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    Its a 1973 with the hanging pedals that came stock
     
  10. Apr 2, 2019
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
    Joined:
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    As stated above...from the image i see....it's the exact slave and master that i use for my cj5 1975 with an amc 360 and T18. Since I6 and V8 use the same bellhoosing for the T-18 i really doubt that it wont work.

    Or you can buy the seperate par from napa as i use to do back when i did the swap.

    The master is NCF 72308
    The slave cylinder is NCF 73172

    With napa they cost me around 100$ in canadian dollars (70 usd)....but i made my own line between the slave and master
     
    Iandavidh likes this.
  11. Apr 4, 2019
    scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

    Seattle Wa.
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    Dec 17, 2002
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    Looks like the same one I have that came from a four cylinder 1980 CJ5.
     
  12. Apr 5, 2019
    johnD

    johnD FUBAR

    Morgantown, PA
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2018
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    I've purchased the kit. I hand to make a heat shield for the Slave Cylinder to keep the heat from the exhaust away. Made it out of aluminum and all bends on the vice. Had to drill out the one of the hole in the bell housing. The line end to the slave cylinder was hitting the frame so I hand to angle it up when tightening. Have clearance now. The return spring I had to order from NAPA.
    On the clutch pedal I drilled the hole and had to make bracket, so the Master Cylinder push rod was the correct angle.
     
    Iandavidh likes this.
  13. Apr 5, 2019
    Iandavidh

    Iandavidh Member

    California
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    Would you say go with the kit or piece the parts together?
     
  14. Apr 6, 2019
    johnD

    johnD FUBAR

    Morgantown, PA
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    I would go with the kit. It's staigst forward and easy to install
     
    Iandavidh likes this.
  15. Apr 14, 2019
    4wealn

    4wealn Member

    Ontario, Canada
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    It is up to you but for less than half the price you can go with what Johneyboy mentioned. It is from an 81 cj7 with the 4 cyl 151 cidL4 (GM engine). I got mine on rock auto for next to nothing.
    clutch master :DORMAN CM106439 {#5359822, CMA106439} (Economy) Info Bore: 13/16 In.
    slave: DORMAN CS11956{#CSA11956, J3241867}(Economy) Bore: 7/8 In
    Only thing I had to do was create my own adjustable clutch push rod. It was really easy and took me less than 30 min. If you would like PM me and I can give you the details. I have been using this setup for over 3 years with a T18 and D20 with no issues. I used a steel line from the master to the slave. Should cost you no more than $50 in total. I just looked but no more Dorman currently at Rockauto but still less than $50. Up to you but I would put that savings elsewhere in your rig.
    Cheers
     
    RATTYFLATTY and Iandavidh like this.
  16. Apr 14, 2019
    Iandavidh

    Iandavidh Member

    California
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    Sep 24, 2018
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    I definitely agree. seems like a better route to me. Will pm
     
  17. Apr 17, 2019
    IrishCJ6

    IrishCJ6 Member

    Wicklow Ireland
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    Dec 6, 2010
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    Can you send me a photo of your pedal setup, I'm not sure if the PO used the correct pedal in mine (all sorts of crap used) and I'm not sure if the master cylinder is located in the correct position. Can you measure the distance from the pivot point to the clutch master cylinder clevis pin, and a measurement from the clevis to the pedal footpad. I'm going to check my master cylinder/slave cylinder sizes tomorrow
     
  18. Apr 17, 2019
    johnD

    johnD FUBAR

    Morgantown, PA
    Joined:
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    From the master cylinder to pivot point is 3 3/4. From the clevis to clutch pad I have 8 3/8.

    upload_2019-4-17_17-26-0.jpeg

    I've made the bracket to keep the clevis straight. I hope this helps.
     
  19. Apr 18, 2019
    IrishCJ6

    IrishCJ6 Member

    Wicklow Ireland
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    Thanks heaps
     
  20. Apr 26, 2019
    Iandavidh

    Iandavidh Member

    California
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    Just an update I’ve ordered all of the parts for and 81 CJ like johneyboy suggested. I am going to try to use the pushrod that came with the slave cylinder first and see if that works out fine. It should right? I know some people have had to make them but my setup is not very far from stock so I am hoping that it has the correct throw before I go and make something.
     
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