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65 Cj5 No Power

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by nolehynaws, Jan 23, 2019.

  1. Apr 13, 2019
    Brent Hutchinson

    Brent Hutchinson New Member

    MD
    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2018
    Messages:
    4
    My F134 was down on power. It just wasn't much fun to drive - couldn't even make it up a short hill without bucking and stalling out.

    I had already cleaned up the carb which had been sitting too long with today's unconditioned crappy fuel in it, so fuel wasn't the problem. Now I always treat the gas when I fill up the tank, 'cause I never know how long Chief is gonna sit and it's a lot easier to add fuel conditioner than take the carburetor apart and clean the gunk out.
    My Jeep has the original oil bath air cleaner. The engine ran fine, but was down on power when under load. It didn't choke out at higher rpm. Air wasn't the problem.
    I checked and adjusted the timing next. You'll need a tachometer and timing light to do this. If you're gonna mess with an old F-head, you're gonna need these tune-up tools.
    I checked the spark plugs, they didn't look too bad, and I probably could have gapped them and put them back in, but it had been so long since I had replaced them, I replaced them anyway. You'll need a set of feeler gauges and or a spark plug gapping tool to check and adjust the spark plug gaps.
    I have replaced the points in the distributor with an electronic module, so that wasn't a concern. If you have ignition points in the distributor, you'll have to check the condition of the points to make sure they're not corroded, clean them up and/or replace them if they are, and set the gap.

    The only thing I have never done since rebuilding the Jeep was adjust the valves. You have to remove the valve cover and side cover, and turn the motor over manually to get the valve lifters in the proper position, and then use a feeler gauge while turning the adjusting nuts to create the proper amount of gap between the lifter and the valve end. Here are a couple of great videos that explain the procedure:
    Intake Valves:
    Exhaust Valves:

    I've never owned a vehicle with solid lifters before, so I've never experienced what an engine with maladjusted valves "felt" like.
    It turned out that the valve adjustment did the trick. It isn't hard to do, and boy, did it make a big difference! She's runnin' like a fine swiss watch!
     
    Jrobz23, Jw60 and maurywhurt like this.
  2. Apr 14, 2019
    Jrobz23

    Jrobz23 Member

    Northern, WI
    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2016
    Messages:
    942
    I’ve owned a few Fheads now and most needed em adjusted. The process isn’t hard, so people shouldn’t be too apprehensive about it. It does really help too to bring em in if they are out.
     
  3. Apr 16, 2019
    tcfeet

    tcfeet Member

    east of west,...
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    Messages:
    352
    I would advance the timing a little at a time. Low timing will take the zip out quick...…….
     
  4. Apr 17, 2019
    65seejayfive

    65seejayfive Blazin’ new trails

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2018
    Messages:
    333
    I adjusted my valves to correct tolerances (intake and exhaust), upgraded from points to a Pertronix ignition, and advanced the timing and my F134 has a LOT more spunk, I mean a VERY noticeable difference. It’s still not fast (I don’t want it to be) but I can maintain speed and pull hills in 3rd I couldn’t before.
     
    Jrobz23 likes this.
  5. Apr 17, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2002
    Messages:
    12,367
    Original poster hasn't been on since Jan. 24th. It would be nice to hear of any progress.
     
  6. Apr 18, 2019
    Jrobz23

    Jrobz23 Member

    Northern, WI
    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2016
    Messages:
    942
    Great post. This mirrors my experience.
     
    65seejayfive likes this.
  7. Apr 30, 2019
    nolehynaws

    nolehynaws Member

    Indiana
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2018
    Messages:
    77
    Hello and thank you for all the responses! Sorry for the inactivity, I have been very busy with school and haven’t had much time for the Jeep unfortunately... but I was thinking that maybe it could be a vacuum problem? The wipers barely move at all which leads me to believe that their could be a leak somewhere. It idles great and sounds good but it’s terribly slow. It gets up to 20-25mph on a flat road after a good 15-20 seconds. It also smells like gas, but I’m not entirely sure what that could mean. The tires are all pumped up, I’m in 2H, and nothing is blocking the accelerator. I greatly appreciate all the help, but I’m completely new to this sort of thing and I don’t know all the ins and outs of the engine so sorry if I don’t understand very quickly. Thanks again!
     
    Beach66Bum likes this.
  8. Apr 30, 2019
    nolehynaws

    nolehynaws Member

    Indiana
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2018
    Messages:
    77
    Hello! How do you upgrade the ignition, and what does that do? Also how would i go about advancing the timing? Thank you!
     
  9. Apr 30, 2019
    nolehynaws

    nolehynaws Member

    Indiana
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2018
    Messages:
    77
    My apologies, school had me very busy. Now graduation is a few weeks away I’m hoping to have the time to fix the problems with the Jeep! Thank you for all your help.
     
  10. Apr 30, 2019
    nolehynaws

    nolehynaws Member

    Indiana
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2018
    Messages:
    77
    Is that your Jeep in your profile picture? That thing is BA. If the spark plugs are gapped wrong could that be part of the problem? I don’t know if I ever did that when I was putting it all back together (I know I’m an idiot). Thanks for the reply, it’s very helpful!
     
  11. Apr 30, 2019
    nolehynaws

    nolehynaws Member

    Indiana
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2018
    Messages:
    77
    Hi! I think I put the wires on in the right order, but how would I check that? It sounds fine so I didn’t think that this could be the problem but it’s worth checking out! Thanks.
     
  12. Apr 30, 2019
    nolehynaws

    nolehynaws Member

    Indiana
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2018
    Messages:
    77
    Just some more information: I was messing around with it in my friends backyard a few weeks back, and fuel started spilling out of the carburetor. Turns out the float had sunk, so I bought a new one and replaced it but didn’t do any calibration or anything. The old float was being held down a spring, but the new float isn’t... is there anything I should do here to help with the power problem?
     
  13. Apr 30, 2019
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2003
    Messages:
    9,754
    The float level needs to be set precisely, for sure. And it sounds like you may have changed the float valve?

    The exact specifications depend upon the valve used, and many generic kits do not have the correct valve for Jeep application.

    This has been discussed many times on this forum, if you try searching the archive.
     
  14. Apr 30, 2019
    nolehynaws

    nolehynaws Member

    Indiana
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2018
    Messages:
    77
    I’ll look around! And yes I believe I changed it.
     
  15. Apr 30, 2019
    65seejayfive

    65seejayfive Blazin’ new trails

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2018
    Messages:
    333
    I upgraded from points to a Pertronix unit #1548 like this:
    [​IMG]
    It’s not complicated at all and I keep my points and condenser in the glovebox as a spare (they are only 6 months old and were working when I removed them). I had no issues with the points after I gapped them correctly (0.020) but I had heard good things about the Pertronix so I wanted to try it. I have to say, it helped even out my idle and it starts very easily now. It never really started too hard and always lit off but I had to crank for a bit. As for adjusting the timing, I by no means did it by the book. On the back of your distributor there is a 7/16” bolt that you loosen, which allows you to turn the distributor back and forth which will advance or retard your timing. Turn clockwise=advance and counter clockwise=retard. I marked where my starting point was then would turn the distributor a bit and take it for a drive. I did this a handful of times until I found the “sweet spot”. Now, this is how I did it which again isn’t by the book but it worked for me. I don’t have any marks on my crank pulley (wish I did!) nor a timing light to find 5* BTDC exactly, I just did it a little at a time. I may eventually try to find TDC by pulling #1 plug and timing it correctly but for now it’s running fine!
     
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  16. May 2, 2019
    Chilly

    Chilly Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2007
    Messages:
    1,486
    Valve setting is really important. Loose valves for sure reduces your actual valve lift, and also shortens effective duration. But slightly on loose side is better than tight. Tight valves lead to burned valves.
     
    65seejayfive likes this.
  17. May 4, 2019
    nolehynaws

    nolehynaws Member

    Indiana
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2018
    Messages:
    77
    Awesome, very helpful! I’ll give that a shot: thanks!
     
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