Dana 20 Shifter Walks Out?

How big of a job is it to remove the shift lever control case on a Dana 20 to replace the torsion springs ? . Mine will not stay in 2WD High. Walks out of 2WD position to 4WD High. She's got a 700R4 auto 3 speed w/ overdrive . Transfer case shifter vibrates / moves forward siting at idle in Park ? ----------Lockman

 

I also need to do that job. My 73 wont stay in front, low range. Pops back to front neutral position. Twin stick

 

Had mine pop out before going over some RR tracks with a train coming,,,not a fun time.
Strap it down where it doesn't pop out until you can fix it?

 

You have to completely remove the front bearing cap from the case.
The rear shift rod must be removed from the shift fork but luckily the front shift rod that is much harder to access; well it stays in the case.

I have a new Heavy Duty D20 shift detent spring and poppet kit that I will sell.
>Well they claim to be HD but are actually same spring wire size as the Dana Spicer originals<
I think its .057 wire diam.
PM me if your interested

 

Modified shifters, aftermarket (stiff) rubber boots, relocated boots, body lifts, and fiberglass tubs all have a way of causing the same symptom.

Take off the shifter boot and sheet metal cover. Observe that the shifter has plenty of clearance to the surrounding floor pan. Try driving it for a while without the cover or the boots and see if that heals your Jeep. If so then consider a boot with more free travel fore and aft.

Repro rubber shift boots arent made of quality rubber. Its a combination of ground up Power Cats, sawdust, and school paste.

 

I Hear you all. So...….in nice words, the answer is: it's a BEAAHSSSACH ! . The TSM just says to remove it, of course.

 

I have never tried but see no reason it cannot be done on the jeep so long as you can see to access the top of the front bearing cap.
In other words no floor pans in the way.

You definitely will need to remove the lower pan so you can remove the RWD fork from its rod.
All other internal parts may stay intact.

The RWD fork is released from rod using a long allen wrench.
Fork itself stays up in the case.

The rod is rotated 1/4 turn to slide it past the poppet balls and then pulled completely out.
RWD poppet ball will shoot up out from top hole.
Those poppet access holes are oft plugged with a plastic bung plug and sometimes threaded plus are used.

You then remove the 5 bolts holding front bearing cap to case.
Slide the front cap completely off of the FWD rod.
The FWD poppet will come out the top hole.

With bearing cap removed you can now access the shift rod springs.

Then REVERSE the procedure exactly

The poppets and springs are held down with a 1/4 wide tool (shaft or rod etc. ) so you can get a rod started back into its bore hole.

 

After Looking it over, you are right on. Thanks . My CJ came with a 1" Tub lift , so that should clear the floor. I'm gonna look at Walck's right now for the springs. I'll let everyone know how I make out in a couple of weeks !

 

UPDATE : Walck's ain't got 'em.... Any Ideas ?

 

Contact Oldtime above (post #5) for the springs.
-Donny

 

Thanks Donny, will do...... I just realized his offer!
Richie

 

A 1" tub lift will require more clearance that factory. I think you need to take your boot off and check it

 

Lockman I'll send you a PM on the D20 shift rail kit.

 

The interlock pills will stay in the bearing cap unless you remove the end plugs.
I generally suggest leaving them intact.... but that is also relative to the type of shifter you have.
The interlock pills will have to be slid into the FWD rod notches in order to insert the RWD shift rod.
Just look down the RWD shift rod bore to see that the interlock pill is not blocking the way.

 

Thanks, oldtime. Yes, I think it's most likely a setup similar to the larger Padlocks I setup & sell. A good dab of bearing grease holds 'em back !

 

X2
I thing I would double check this before tearing into the t case.

 

You still have to pull it apart but you might have a broken spring. I found that mine was when I did my lower low range swap a few months back.

 

Thanks Ya'all..... I suspect that it's a broken spring, I recall a similar problem... now, on my ' 69 CJ5 . oldtime is sending me the spring kit that he has . I muchly appreciate that. Kinda hard to find. Novak's has it in a complete t case rebuild kit for $$. Any way, I'm just completing the dash & engine upgrade & have ventured downward to the Brakes. I figured on moving from top to bottom on My Custom , 20 Year old ! She needs these upgrades , mostly 'cuz I suspect that the PO was disinterested . He inherited this CJ5 from his deceased father , AND I"m GLAD to Have Her Now !!!!!!
I appreciate eveyrone for this problem's advice and , like I said earlier, I'll let you all know how I make out in a couple of weeks.------Lockman , out.