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Norcal69's Common Sense Build.

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Norcal69, Sep 11, 2014.

  1. Mar 14, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Northern California
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    Reassembly is going smoothly. Of course everything is custom... Notched the gas tank skid plate out for shackle bolt swing. Somehow I managed to end up 4 grease able bolts short.... :confused: they should arrive today. Once those are installed the wheels will go on and the jeep can finally support itself again. I will get driveshaft measurements once we are on the ground.
    I'm going to have to make a lubrication chart for this thing........ :study: First its time to do a tool roundup and sweep the floor......

    [​IMG]

    Just for fun I threw in the drive line. Looks like I am going to need a double cardan drive shaft. I will make the necessary measurements once it is full of fuel and sitting on all for tires.

    Sitting with rear axle on jack.

    [​IMG]

    Drive line at full droop. It is not only too short, but the u Joints are bound up. At first i had the slip joint on the TC side, but it bound up before full droop. With the slip joint on the rear at full droop it just barley binds. Double cardan should solve this.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2019
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  2. Mar 14, 2019
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
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    Double cardan...in case you didnt know...you will need to give the pumpking more angle so it will be strait with the drive shaft.

    Also make sure to get the right yoke for the transfert case since simple joint and cardan dont share the same.
     
  3. Mar 14, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Yes, the rear axle with weight on it will be in line with the drive shaft.
    I already have a half dozen new 1310 U joints, I was going to order the joint shown below and have my local guy balance my shaft. The increased length from the double cardan joint may end up being just about right. If not I'll have it shortened.

    I was thinking of just ordering this DANA SPICER 2-26-497 Double Cardan CV H Yoke 1310 Series for JEEP CJ, Wrangler, Cherokee all models with 1310 CV Driveshaft front/rear
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2019
  4. Mar 14, 2019
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

    exploring the...
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    I think the shaft end and yoke are unique to the double cardan joint they have a ball and socket type thing on em.
     
  5. Mar 14, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Thanks for the heads up guys.
    Looking further down the page I see the necessary centering yoke and my current drive shaft yoke is incorrect for use with the cardan type joint. I also need to change the yoke on the TC output. Guess i'll be turning the shaft over to a professional. Off to find the TC yoke......
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2019
  6. Mar 14, 2019
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    High angle ( Jessie ) over in the Chico area..........and Tom Woods
     
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  7. Mar 14, 2019
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
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    blalp! and Norcal69 like this.
  8. Mar 14, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    You just beat me to it.(y) Over nite delivery from summit too!
    Just talked to my local guy, he has all parts in stock to build the cardan joint on my shaft. He said drop it off Monday morning.
     
  9. Mar 14, 2019
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
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    When i did my coil spring set-up i had to use a cv-joint but i learn the bad ways that i need the yoke for it. i did have the driveshaft with the cv but i just assemble it at the end of project. Had to wait a week to get the correct part.

    I just forgot to mention...make sure the dana 20 is 10 splines....i read back them that they had little 26 splines on those dana 20 but i'm not 100% sure about it.
     
  10. Mar 16, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    On my old D27 I was running 1.5" wheel spacers. These not only helped my turning radius, but helped my wheels clear the brake calipers. When I installed this D30, wider than the D27, I no longer needed the wheel spacers. The calipers were so close to the wheels that they knocked the wheel weights off. I ground the casting lines off my calipers to clear the wheel weights.

    [​IMG]
     
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  11. Mar 17, 2019
    fesser

    fesser Napa, CA 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Stupid question...What are the physical differences between the two yokes. I looked a bit on the web, and found some good schematics for the cv yoke but not the other type. If they both take a 1310 ujoint, what is different?
    Beautiful job on the whole rig btw.
     
  12. Mar 17, 2019
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

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    the yoke holds a joint with a ball on it, that indexes with a socket and spring thing in the double part ,another ball thing is on the driveshaft end. the whole thing is under some tension when its all together.[​IMG] this is a 1350 cv the smaller ones are similar. "image from tom woods"
     
  13. Mar 17, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Well curiosity got the best of me.......
    With the brakes now functional I decided to roll the jeep out and put the forklift under it........
    Ride height, 22" to the rocker. The jeep actually sits 1/4" higher in the rear, the ground slope throws it off. I am thinking about a 1" longer shackle in the rear(4-3/8" ctc) for fuel and supplies.
    Its just a cute little CJ5......

    [​IMG]

    Until the forklift arrives......

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    My current shocks could be made to work, but some longer units with proper valving would be much easier......
     
  14. Mar 17, 2019
    3b a runnin

    3b a runnin Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    It sure is(y)
     
  15. Mar 17, 2019
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
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    Here is what it looks like if you try to mate a cv joint to a non-cv yoke.

    Things are close to lining up from this angle. (The tabs are a hair too long, leaving a gap under the cap.)

    [​IMG]

    But then you see the real issue with this next image. The standard yoke is way wider than the cv yoke. The holes are too wide in the standard yoke.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Mar 17, 2019
    fesser

    fesser Napa, CA 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I think you answered my question and solved a mystery for me. My front yoke on a Dana 20 will seat a 1310 u joint, but the standard u bolts I have won't go in the holes, they are a hair off, I would have to go out and check, but I think I may have a CV joint yoke on the front output of my D20. One more thing to mess with. Would love to know the distance between the bolt holes for the straps/u bolts. Sorry if this is thread hijacking. The original thread is what made me start pondering.
     
  17. Mar 18, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Denny’s drive shaft sells the u bolts so you can use a standard 1310 u joint in a cv transfer case yoke.
     
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  18. Mar 18, 2019
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

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    C to C of holes in CV joint,
    Measured to the best of my ability...
    Short distance (across the cap) 1.495"
    Long distance (across the joint) 2.330"
     
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  19. Mar 18, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I think that this is what you need if you don't want to run a cv joint.
    [​IMG]

     
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  20. Mar 18, 2019
    fesser

    fesser Napa, CA 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Awesome! You guys are the best. Going to order some of those bolts.
     
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