Steering Advice.

Hopefully this post doesn't annoy anyone, as I've read a bunch of posts here, and gotten a ton of good info. Anyways I just purchased a 72 cj5 so the girlfriend and I both have trail rigs. The rig came with full hydrolic steering, that is so touchy driving it on surface streets at 15 mph was downright terrifying, I've drive hydrolic steer rigs before, but this is awful. From what I've read the components might be mismatched, likely due to a small ram. So the main question is for a trail rig that needs to be able to drive around town, would you correct the hydro steer, or go through making a tie rod and drag link, and find a saginaw box? If so what junkyard boxes do you typically go for, was looking at s10 blazer boxes as they are easy to find, but open to suggestions.

 

Lots of things you can do to slow it down some........But it would all depend on the components you have.......perhaps a call to the company that provided the full hydro parts & column? ..................Illegal to drive on the street in California?

 

Why does it have hydro steering? Massive tires?
72 used a stock Saginaw steering box...

 

Better to come back to a standard system with no surprise, except that it needs some work to turn the wheels.

 

For a streeter I would go back to the standard PS set up with a brace.

 

I suspect all States require mechanical steering if driven on the road. I would look into converting back to a Saginaw box, either manual or power, because stock parts can be used, and its tried and true as a decent system.
I haven't ever pulled a steering box from an S-10, but most mid-size and full size GM vehicles from the late 1980's and older will have a Saginaw box that will fit, provided you still have the original brackets on the frame.
There are 3 bolt and 4 bolt steering boxes, and either will work. The ratio of the box is different, depending on what the donor was. Count the turns, lock to lock, to see if it is "fast" or "slow". Some Jeepers like the slower ratios, with 4 or more turns.
-Donny

 

Definitely scrap the full hydraulic steering if it's going to be on the roads. If you have giant tires and need the extra assist, run a saginaw box with a hydraulic ram assist. Companies like AGR can set you up.

AGR Performance 304251

 

Chevy S-10 steering boxes have a different input shaft spline count than a stock CJ steering shaft. A custom steering shaft will be necessary.

 

Mmm. I thought the S10 gear had the same spline count as the factory Jeep manual steering gears. If so, there is a bell coupler that will go between the factory steering shaft and the S-10 steering gear. The Wagoneer guys like them because they are comparatively modern and therefore more durable than the older gears, they are easy to source, and they have a variable ratio. The 4x4 S-10, Blazer and Bravura gears are preferred, being a slower ratio than those from the 2WD S10.

 

NB steering geometry strongly affects response. Maybe the steering is fine mechanically, but the angles are way off? Have you measured?

 

I'm not sure how the angles would be way off for the hydrolic system, but I think going back to a stock system sounds like the way to go. As for input shafts etc, it wouldn't matter, unless i can find stock parts in a junkyard (not likely where I live) it will need to be custom anyways. The wheel is mounted directly to the orbital box. Just unfortunately means added cost as I'll need to make custom tie rod and drag link. Not sure what the axle is from but I believe it is a dana 44 with larger drums.

 

just like a forklift . bet it is scary going down the road . off road at low speed is what the PO was building . rock crawler
finding stock parts for a later CJ shouldn't be all that hard . with the internet . good luck

 

The toe-in could be way out, and a 44 is a replacement axle, so the caster could be off. Replacement springs will affect the caster too. Both of those will affect the straight-ahead stability.

 

Chuck it. You already have a two hole passenger knuckle. If it's a factory width bet you can source a stock tie rod. Some Dom and taps a drag link is easily fabricated and not expensive. Factory parts round out the rest. Selling off the hydro stuff will likely pay for the resto parts.

 

love this idea, and I work at a machine shop so threading some tubing is not a problem at all. didn't even think about the value of the hydro parts 2nd hand.

 

I should have clarified the Chevy S-10 gearbox has a different input spline shaft count than the CJ power steering gearbox. I’m not sure about the input spline count on a CJ manual box.

I replaced my original power gearbox with a S-10 gearbox and had to fabricate a new steering shaft