Replacement Brake Lines Leak

I replaced all the brake lines with Walcks kit, but I've got several connections that still leak a little. I keep tightening them a little at a time but I getting worried they are going to be a problem and strip or something. Any suggestions or just keep cranking them down.

 

How are the flared ends? They should not leak, and do not require excessive tightening. I’m sure you started threads by hand, so not cross- threaded.

 

My sense is that the double flare needs to be compressed significantly on the first application, at least with the flares I make myself. I keep tightening until the resistance increases quite suddenly.

As for stripping, usually the flats on the nut go first. Not the end of the world.

 

I've pulled them back out and the flares look ok. But the Walcks lines are the hard steel, not the soft ones. Yes I hand threaded to get them started but the tension is definately there. And unfortunately several of the places where it's a problem, you can't get a tubing wrench on.

 

Mounting surface on the wheel slave cylinder are clean so the flared end sits 100% flat AND square

 

You must use a quality flare nut wrench. An open end wrench will distort the nuts, and as Pete mentions, the flats will round off before they are really tight.

There are flare heads for your ratchet like crowfoot wrenches, if that will help you to reach the nuts. I have never found a location where I could not get the regular wrench on. Been times where I've needed a cheater, but I could always reach the nut.

 

I had the same problem, and I made all my lines. I had to loosen them up and move them around and retighten them, I think you have got to seat them by tightening to shape them and reseat them. Mine is fine now. Good Luck

 

X2 Tim a quality wrench is needed to crank em tight.

 

I had the same problem with the stainless steel lines I put on my CJ. The would drip very slowly sitting in the shop. I just kept tightening them till they stopped. If they leak when it's gets back on the road, I'll deal with them.

 

The problem with the flare wrench is that it is too fat to get between the front axel U bolts and the hose connection.

 

Got a grinder?

 

Had problems with my Walcks lines too. Really had to problems with the lines going into brass blocks.

 

It the driver's side being a pai and the replacement brake light switch.

 

Going to go look this weekend to find a less expensive 3/8" before I grind on my Craftsman.