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New Clutch Rod Installation Problems

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by mickeykelley, Oct 12, 2018.

  1. Oct 12, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

    Republic of Texas
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    So I sent my brake peddle and clutch shaft off to Mike (mcruffin) to have him install a bushing. As it turns out the clutch shaft was too worn. So I ordered a replacement from Walcks and of course UPS took forever but it finally got here today and I went to try installing it tonight. Turns out the half moon key way was not cut deep enough. Probably Chineese crap. So I tried to put the key back in the old shaft just to verify how deep it had to go and marked it and verified the clutch arm slid on. The height on the original key installed is 1.077 and the most I can get on the new is 1.110 and thats trying either a C clamp or bench vise. See pic of the black line, that's the original. Now I'm dead in the water til I can call Carl Monday and wait for another and hope it's not bad. I know I could try to grind down the head of the key but that's just jerry rigging things.

    Anyone else have this issue with these new shafts?
    image.jpg

    Also where the pedal release rod attaches to the clutch shaft, it seems to me like there should be a washer before the cotter pin.
    image.jpg
     
    Hellion likes this.
  2. Oct 13, 2018
    70cj5134f

    70cj5134f Member

    East Tn
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    Those half keys are available in different heights!
    Hardware store or auto parts store has.
    Nothing wrong with cutting or grinding yours down.
    Get u back on road sooner.
     
  3. Oct 13, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

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    Ok, I didn't know that. I guess a trip to NAPA this morning.
     
  4. Oct 13, 2018
    Tomellen

    Tomellen Member

    Ticonderoga, NY
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    Carl will take Saturday calls usually.
     
  5. Oct 13, 2018
    Beach66Bum

    Beach66Bum 1966 Tuxedo Park Mark IV 2024 Sponsor

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    The new cross shaft tube I installed a while back. You can see the washer before the cotter pin.
    Side note. I noticed that there were a few different repops out there to choose from.
    Some have a thinner tube and didn’t come with all the replacement pieces, ie. the felt washers, dust caps, springs.
    The replacement kit I bought was more than double in cost, but came with all the pieces and a thicker tube. Also came with new ball studs for each end.
     
  6. Oct 13, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

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    NAPA only had one the same size so I decided I need to move forward so I took 2 minutes to grind it down and move forward. It goes against my basic instinct that says things are designed, and supposed, to go together and not to force things. But then I factored in things are not always done and checked properly in today's business mind of just crank it out and don't worry about it. So I'm provise and move forward. The clutch pedal will still work and nobody know it but me.
     
    Twin2 and 70cj5134f like this.
  7. Oct 13, 2018
    3b a runnin

    3b a runnin Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    virginia
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    Might want to consider some rod ends and all thread. Those factory style links wear out pretty quick. Might look at these.
    McMaster-Carr
     
    Hellion likes this.
  8. Oct 13, 2018
    Hellion

    Hellion Regurgitated

    Eastern TN
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    @Beach66Bum what is that large cotter pin in the center of the pedal shaft for?

    Seconded. All those factory links have some degree of slop; just think of all the collective slack in the pins and fulcrums that has to be taken up before the shoe makes contact with the drum.

    There’s no real way to keep the pin-and-hole linkages lubed and free of debris either.

    Those heim joints and ball joints are the ticket. Must...resist...
     
  9. Oct 14, 2018
    Beach66Bum

    Beach66Bum 1966 Tuxedo Park Mark IV 2024 Sponsor

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    @Hellion,
    That center cotter pin is the stop for the spring that is inserted into the tube. The spring keeps the cross shaft tensioned on the ball studs.
    (Cotter pin, spring, metal disc, felt pad, rubber dust cap.)
     
    Hellion likes this.
  10. Oct 14, 2018
    Hellion

    Hellion Regurgitated

    Eastern TN
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    A big thanks. I don’t think my clutch bellcrank/shaft contains any of those things except the cotter pin (trans removed, the shaft is still connected to the linkages). I will check.

    I blame the PO “Bubba”. :sleep:
     
  11. Oct 14, 2018
    Beach66Bum

    Beach66Bum 1966 Tuxedo Park Mark IV 2024 Sponsor

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    Your welcome. I’m trying to find a good Goggle image of the components of the cross shaft.
     
    Hellion likes this.
  12. Oct 14, 2018
    Beach66Bum

    Beach66Bum 1966 Tuxedo Park Mark IV 2024 Sponsor

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    A really good video I found on YouTube.
    Shows the assembly of the cross shaft/bell crank.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2018
    Hellion and ojgrsoi like this.
  13. Oct 14, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

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    I had no idea there were all those extra parts back up there. Since no grease areas, I wonder what 60 years of use on those felts and oil seals looks like. For now since things are working, don't ask don't tell.
     
  14. Oct 14, 2018
    3b a runnin

    3b a runnin Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Is it just me thinking wrong, or did the guy in the video turn the clutch, brake shaft wrong according to the woodruff key. About the 3 min. mark. Looks like he turned it to the bottom where it would be in the bolt, pinch area.
    Please correct me if I'm wrong.
     
  15. Oct 14, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

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    I noticed that too. But he would have had to correct it in order to be able to hook up the linkage going back to the other clutch shaft since those tear drop sections are welded to the shafts in a specific spot in order to work.
     
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