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Tomellen Got The Standard Three Wire With Hie

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Unkel Dale, Oct 1, 2018.

  1. Oct 1, 2018
    Unkel Dale

    Unkel Dale delivery on my Jeep from Ft. Campbell, Ky.

    Pittsburgh, Pa.
    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2013
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    692
    I want to go to 10si/12si internally regulated single wire. We have three circuits here: Start AND Run AND Charge. I am doing this because of intermittent problems with all circuits and maybe components too.
    We will call this an upgrade, I am just tired of doing this finding the bad part every year.

    For the removal of the old 35 AMP Motorola three wire system, I remove the external regulator from the fire wall or fender leaving it connected in the wire circuit, or not, from the alternator. I know I remove the small gauge wire (grey for me) at the gauge cluster in the lower left quarter in the dash for the Idiot light there indicating it is charging when off, not lit equals charging the battery after the start. Remove the alternator belt tensioner and unbolt the old alternator, label the (grey) wire with a paper tag for the old system idiot light, box it, Done!

    What do those connections look like for the charge circuit with a 10/12 si?

    I know I have to go from the 10/12 si Alternator connection on the only electrical stud on the rear face of the alternator to the battery on a real heavy red battery wire to the positive battery terminal, and from the Alternator mount bracket to the battery on a black wire to the negative terminal.
    Good so far IF that was how I did it, but I use a battery isolation switch in the dash which helped with the old system. I ran with #8 gauge welding lead wire to the switch and from the stitch back out the dash to the big center lug on the starter solenoid. All connections thru the steel body are on nylon electrical isolator studs. Yes I want to keep the battery isolation switch as a theft deterrent for the unknowing.

    Now if I use an equally large gauge red "battery cable" wire from same post on the only alternator rear face connection down to the big lug in the center top on the starter solenoid. What does that get me, A RUN circuit?
    What do I do over to the distributer?
    What do I do for the starter switch? I use a 4 pin. On the rear face of the switch are 4 3/16 inch studs Batt, Start, Aux and one more that I do not recall correctly right now.
    A labeled sketch WITH the terminal connection puts this to bed fast. Thanks Dale
     
  2. Oct 1, 2018
    70cj5134f

    70cj5134f Member

    East Tn
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    Aug 18, 2018
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    When I converted my classic cars and trucks, I just used the original large gauge alt
    wire, then the original exciter wire to 1 plug terminal, and a loop back to stud with
    The other plug terminal. These were not 1 wire alt. They were standard gm.
    Never got my factory alt light to work though?
     
  3. Oct 1, 2018
    NCRenII

    NCRenII yellow fever

    Far Nor Cal
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    Sep 22, 2017
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    Recently found this pic, but have not started conversion.
    Not sure how to wire with gauge. Still researching as I want to be prepared should my motorola give out.
    single wire alternator.jpg
     
  4. Oct 1, 2018
    ojgrsoi

    ojgrsoi Retired 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Weatherford, TX
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    the plug is available at flaps. I'd install a new plug while you're converting.
     
  5. Oct 1, 2018
    Tomellen

    Tomellen Member

    Ticonderoga, NY
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    flaps ?????????
     
  6. Oct 1, 2018
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Morgan Hill, Ca
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    Friendly Local Auto Parts Store
     
  7. Oct 1, 2018
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Virginia Beach, VA
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    a picture will do
    delco10si - Copy.JPG
    this is how some/most factory hook up look
    some say to run the big red plug wire back to switch . as to acting like a sensing wire (load)
     
  8. Oct 1, 2018
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

    exploring the...
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    better off running number 2 to a remote location,i ran it into the dash and tied it to an accessory position on the ignition. it will do a better job of charging.
     
  9. Oct 1, 2018
    Oldriginal86

    Oldriginal86 Member

    Pasadena, Md.
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    Nov 5, 2014
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    The #2 wire needs/ should be from an ignition switched source or the exite portion of the alternator will be powered all the time and possibly be a parasitic draw. Use the accessory side of the ignition switch as opposed to the run side or the engine won’t shut off.
     
  10. Oct 2, 2018
    Unkel Dale

    Unkel Dale delivery on my Jeep from Ft. Campbell, Ky.

    Pittsburgh, Pa.
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    both pictured alternators are NOT 1 wire, there in no dual plug in mine in the top position, just one post on the rear face
     
    ojgrsoi likes this.
  11. Oct 2, 2018
    NCRenII

    NCRenII yellow fever

    Far Nor Cal
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    Here you go. note the only difference is the terminals alt and gauge/light leads are stacked at the starter terminal and no jumper is needed.
    1 wire alt.jpg
     
  12. Oct 2, 2018
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    You can't just take a conventional 10SI or 12SI 3-wire and run it 1-wire. Well, you can, but the alternator may not start charging on its own, and if it does, it will only be at very high RPM.

    An alternator uses current to make more current, so there has to be some "bootstrap" to get it started. The 3-wire uses an outside source of current, from the ignition switch, to bootstrap. A 1-wire has a special internal circuit (of some kind) that allows it to bootstrap without an outside source of current.

    You can make a 1-wire from a 3-wire by replacing the internal electronics with 1-wire electronics. These conversion kits are available at Amazon Amazon.com: JEGS 10140 Alternator 1-Wire Conversion Kit: Automotive (I suspect only the regulator is different here - the other parts are simply for repair/refreshment/price-boosting) - or you can buy a 1-wire alternator pre-assembled.

    The 3-wire connections are really easy, if you care. To me, the 1-wire is a solution looking for a problem.
     
    Daryl, ojgrsoi and 70cj5134f like this.
  13. Oct 2, 2018
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    You must not have connected it right. When I replaced the ammeter with a voltmeter in my J20 (factory equipped with a 10SI), I installed an alternator light. It works... My J20 had a resistance wire to the exciter connection, which I replaced with a plain copper wire. The exciter wire needs something in the current path to block back-feed from the running alternator to the ignition switch, and prevent the resulting run-on when you turn the switch off. This can be a resistance, a light bulb or a diode - choose one. If you use a bulb, you must replace it if it burns out, since your alternator will not self-excite if the bulb is out.
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2018
  14. Oct 2, 2018
    70cj5134f

    70cj5134f Member

    East Tn
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    The true 1 wire has a rpm sensitive exciter.
    It excites itself around 1000rpm.
    Had one of these once, if u started engine at idle and didn't blip the gas it wouldnt charge,
    Blip the throttle up over 1k and it went texcited.
    I don't use these anymore, std gms are less expensive.
    Local alt repair shop sells the self exciter regulators for 20bucks.(Installed
    if u bring the alt off car.)
     
  15. Oct 2, 2018
    Tomellen

    Tomellen Member

    Ticonderoga, NY
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    I don't understand why my forum name was used in the title of this thread????? I do have a 3 wire with a HEI, but whats that got to do with this thread????
     
  16. Oct 3, 2018
    Unkel Dale

    Unkel Dale delivery on my Jeep from Ft. Campbell, Ky.

    Pittsburgh, Pa.
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    My intention was to differentiate what you are running versus what I desire to do. Thanks for reminding me to ask this question.
     
  17. Oct 3, 2018
    Unkel Dale

    Unkel Dale delivery on my Jeep from Ft. Campbell, Ky.

    Pittsburgh, Pa.
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    Love this guy,
    Ok here we go: the negative battery cable goes to the both the frame AND the alternator lower mount bolt on the face on the engine. My battery isolation switch in the dash is on the "hot" red positive terminal in between the positive terminal and the starter center big lug. I do not use a volt meter gauge. Just what I required as a reply.
     
  18. Nov 4, 2018
    Unkel Dale

    Unkel Dale delivery on my Jeep from Ft. Campbell, Ky.

    Pittsburgh, Pa.
    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2013
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    692
    :the true 1 wire excites at 1000 rpm (for a car) the application I purchased is for a boat/ marine application, it EXCITES at 600 rpm
     
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