Can't Get My Tapered Axles Out, What Am I Doing Wrong?

I had one axle where I used a 1/2 impact gun to try and remove the hub, then applied heat, then beat it under pressure and hot with an 8# sledgehammer and it WOULD NOT budge. I scrapped the entire axle.

 

I cannot stress enough that the proper puller means everything. The one I posted above has never had an issue with any axle. A couple have exploded apart but they still just come right off.

 

Almost sounds like we need to start a community tool loaner process. Ecj5 tool shed.

 

"Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." Archimedes

 

The Amazon one I found was around $40, probably not as nice quality as the one Daryl has but...

 

I am pretty positive once I rebuild my power lok I'll put no more effort into this axle and focus on my flanged one. I'll convert that one to full float. Will I need to get the bearing races out of that one? Maybe only if they are pitted or look rough?

 

Yep, I'm willing to send the one I just ordered on the road once I use it. Also hoping I never need it again

 

When I was googling it brought me to a thread you started on here, I recall seeing the impact gun and heat. That's what gave me the idea to heat mine.

 

What is your reasoning here? Usually you pick the flanged axles, or the full-floater conversion - one or the other. The point of the flanged axle is the one-piece axle and hub is stronger than the tapered axle and hub, in addition to the increased strength from the higher spline count. The flanged axles are "Semi-full floating" according to Jeep. If the axle shaft breaks, the stub typically stays in the housing and the wheel does not come off. If the bearing fails, the wheel comes off, but I think that would happen with a full-floater as well.

 

I am still learning how the full float relates to the flanged axles so maybe my reasoning doesn't make sense. In my mind my reasoning is this.

I have a wide track front D30 with discs and a locker. I will eventually buy front rims with backspacing to pull the tires in an inch on each side. To match the width in the rear I am using 2" spacers. I don't like the spacers that much and I would like to have hubs on the rear for the occasions that I flat tow. I picked up a flanged/centered D44 with 5 on 5.5 axles. It's way longer than I need (pictured above). I want to cut it down to the length I want (about 1.75" longer each side than a narrow track) which will also make it offset and eliminate the spacers. I also want to go to 30 spline axles at that point so I have more locker options.

Is that not good reasoning?

 

I just couldn't justify the $150 tool at this time. I may regret that but I'm willing to gamble with the cheap one right now. It gets mixed reviews tho...
Amazon.com: TruePower 20-2029 Universal Hub Puller: Automotive

 

If you went full-floating with a narrowed 44 housing, you'd have to have the housing narrowed and have axle shafts made to a custom width. Plenty of the narrow track tapered 44s have been converted to full float, and the process is well understood, but I'm not so sure about the flanged axles.

One possibility would be to buy axles from a '74-79 Wagoneer with Quadratrac, and you'd have 44s for both front and rear, and an offset rear axle. These are a little wider than your existing front axle (58" vs 56" front track); you'd skip the housing and axle shaft fab and have 44s front and rear with 30 splines and an open front. They are 6 on 5.5" pattern however, but there are plenty of aftermarket wheels available for that pattern.

 

Great info Tim thank you. I wouldn't mind going D44 front but no way will I go wider than the wide track width. It's been on for 6 months now and I still raise an eyebrow when I see the width, it's not growing on me like I hoped it would.

I planned on having the shafts cut and splined, knew that would be needed. I didn't realize the flanged axle didn't have a full float option. I need to see pics of how the full float with hubs system goes together, I'm not picturing it.

And now I can't get my driver side brake drum off . For a guy just wanting to change his power lok clutches I'm going thru the ringer . Two days of zero progress is no bueno!