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1971 Cj5 Clutch Part #

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Peter Harman, Jul 20, 2018.

  1. Jul 20, 2018
    Peter Harman

    Peter Harman New Member

    Fountain CO
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    I have a '71 CJ5 with the 225 dauntless and a T-14 The PO put in a clutch, I dunno if it's the right clutch or if they were just outright guessing, but bottom line is that it's nfg. I'm stumped as to a replacement. I know the OEM was three-fingered, but there seems to be options.
    Does anyone have the part# or a link to the treasure?
     
  2. Jul 20, 2018
    TIm E

    TIm E Aggressively average

    NW Arkansas
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    LUK Brand is part number 01-029
     
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  3. Jul 20, 2018
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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  4. Jul 20, 2018
    Peter Harman

    Peter Harman New Member

    Fountain CO
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    Awesome! I think the kit in it is brute power but I don’t know the part number as what’s on it PHT C5469 and 2216 match nothing I can find.
     
  5. Jul 26, 2018
    Peter Harman

    Peter Harman New Member

    Fountain CO
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    So I ordered and received the Luk clutch and I’m running into something I wasn’t expecting. The previous clutch, before I removed it, wouldn’t engage. With the pedal all the way to the floor the throw out bearing was hardly touching the diaphragm. I was suspecting the wrong clutch or the wrong bearing but now the bearings look almost the same size and luk clutch is smaller in profile. Is there something here that I’m missing?
     

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  6. Jul 27, 2018
    jeepstar

    jeepstar Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sheboygan
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    clutch pedal adjustment?
     
  7. Jul 27, 2018
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Pivot ball missing? Wrong T/O arm? Out of adjustment? Wrong t/o bearing? Its all just levers.
     
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  8. Jul 27, 2018
    TIm E

    TIm E Aggressively average

    NW Arkansas
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    Awesome. Reminded me of the Seinfeld episode where George gets caught peeing in the shower at the gym...

     
  9. Jul 27, 2018
    montanacj

    montanacj Member

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    Different pipes go to different places, I watch Seinfeld every evening. Haha

    Hope the op gets the clutch sorted out.
     
  10. Jul 27, 2018
    Peter Harman

    Peter Harman New Member

    Fountain CO
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    Great questions. I adjusted the clutch to the max and the cable was tight as soon as you start to depress the pedal the fork move and the cables loose. I verified the bearing is correct. Pivot ball is present and correct. When everything is set in place the fork only has an inch, maybe less, of movement before it hits the bell house. It’s my first Jeep and I inherited this mess!
     
  11. Jul 27, 2018
    TIm E

    TIm E Aggressively average

    NW Arkansas
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    Indeed. I have a 69 with the cable clutch (which is what the op should have) and have a similar concern. There seems to be a fine balance between having enough free play so as to not burn up the TO bearing and getting enough travel to fully disengage the clutch. Mine is working, but it disengages when the pedal is almost all the way to the floor. I have a new cable to install (eliminate the possibility of cable "stretch"), and will post the results.

    I suspect the amount of travel in the 69-71 cable set-up is more sensitive in terms of adjustment and wear; my 68 has the bell-crank linkage and doesn't seem to have travel issues. Lots of other possible variables, but this is where my investigation has lead so far.

    Be careful with this, you need some free-play in the clutch fork. If the TO bearing rides on the pressure plate during normal driving, it will burn up. The FSM says to adjust it snug, then back off 2 1/2 turns on the adjustment nut (if I remember correctly).
     
  12. Jul 27, 2018
    Peter Harman

    Peter Harman New Member

    Fountain CO
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    If you see anything out of the ordinary, please let me know!
     

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  13. Jul 27, 2018
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    this has been a on going problem when replacing the clutch assembly in the one only year bell housing = 71 one piece
    I would say the only one that will work . is the 3 finger borg&beck
    the pivot ball/bolt is father back with this design

    that said . my guess would get the adjustable pivot bolt for the clutch fork
     
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  14. Jul 27, 2018
    Peter Harman

    Peter Harman New Member

    Fountain CO
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    Any suggestion on where to get these? I have already purchased an adjustable pivot ball but it turned out to be the wrong thread pitch.
     
  15. Jul 27, 2018
    47v6

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  16. Jul 28, 2018
    AtomicYJ

    AtomicYJ Sponsor

    Rochester, WA
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    My '71 definitely has a diaphragm type clutch in it that worked fine until the T14 let go. It still has the one piece bell. I'll have to dig out the paperwork the previous owner gave me on the clutch replacement and t-case rebuild. I just moved so it may be a while before I can find it.
     
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  17. Jul 28, 2018
    Peter Harman

    Peter Harman New Member

    Fountain CO
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    I appreciate all the help! Is anyone has a lead on where I can purchase the three fingered clutch it’d be greatly appreciated!
     
  18. Jul 28, 2018
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    The diaphragm clutch should work fine assuming you have the right arm and TO bearing. PM me your info and I'll see if I might be able to come down your way and take a look at things if you want.
     
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  19. Jul 31, 2018
    Mtnmax

    Mtnmax New Member

    Grand Lake, Colorado
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    I have a 71 with the same set up as you, and I had the same trouble with the clutch. I ended up ordering an adjustable pivot ball from Summit. It's not cheap, $40, but worth it because it solved my problem. I think I had to drill and re-tap the threads, but other than that it works great. Hope this is helpful.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-16908
     
  20. Aug 3, 2018
    Peter Harman

    Peter Harman New Member

    Fountain CO
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    I’m certainly interested. I called Novak and ACT but they seemed vague tbh!
     
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