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1959 Corvette 283 FI

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Pappabear1973, Apr 9, 2018.

  1. Apr 9, 2018
    Pappabear1973

    Pappabear1973 New Member

    Canandaigua ny
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    Jan 23, 2016
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    36
  2. Apr 10, 2018
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    Sep 17, 2009
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    4,460
    Maybe the first question that should be asked is exactly what do you plan to use the Jeep for? A high strung 283, as well as high strung 327's and 350's (don't ask me how I know about the latter two), make for a poor trail Jeep even with low gearing. They don't really like running in the rpm band where you really want some torque. They are one hell of a lot of fun on the road-assuming the Jeep is sufficiently built that you don't kill yourself.

    And I'll play the devil's advocate. You are going to end up with close to the same cost building the 283 as you would a 350 and the 350 can be built to render a whole lot more low end torque. Like Daryl, I have no use for those early heads sans any accessory mounting holes. The more of those the better. Actually, I really doubt that I will ever use a set of iron heads again-aluminum have a lot of advantages, especially with regards to usable compression ratios. Not to mention losing 50 lbs.

    Cooling is definitely something that needs a lot of attention. After several renditions in my 3B, including a 4 row 19x26 cross flow Modine, by far the most efficient and effective is a 2 row aluminum version of that same 19x26 radiator. I'm using a Northern from Summit. I had to reclock the outlet but it works great. Use one of the high flow water pumps (I'm using a FlowKooler 1880) and I'm using a smaller diameter water pump pulley that speeds it up about 15%. A well fitted shroud is essential if you want any efficiency out of the system. I also like mechanical fans-the largest one you can fit.

    Cams: you just can't beat a hydraulic roller cam for off road. You can get some decent breathing without a big overlap.

    Induction: Just like roller cams, fuel injection is absolutely the way to go and the systems that also control spark let you run compression that would probably destroy a carbed engine.

    And one really needs to pay attention when ordering pistons to make sure you have sufficient valve clearance for the desired cam.

    After using several different alternator locations, a top passenger side mounting has proven the best in my application.

    I used 1/4x4" steel plate to build horizontal "A" configuration motor mounts that are both bolted and welded to the top and bottom of the frame rails. Those have stood the test of time for 46 years now. My suggestion for mounting is to mock up the grill, radiator, and engine block with water pump (short version)/fan and mount the engine as far forward as possible. With a small base distributor, you shouldn't be into the firewall. You will need all the length you can get for the rear driveshaft.

    IMO, the 1.25" intermediate shaft D18 will be more than adequate. I've never had a problem with one in my 3B. If you are building or rebuilding one, use the stronger case of the large index D18 or one from a D20. And the TeraLow or O'Brien gear sets are a nice addition-but expensive.
     
    Rich M. likes this.
  3. Apr 10, 2018
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    Oct 29, 2012
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    3,784
    The original mounting for that block style had the front mounts on both sides of the timing cover...........then on the bell-housing on each side and the transmission hung or was suspended from there back.......although I think convertible cars had a 3rd mount on the rear of the tranny..........My 55 chevy was this way..........later when chevy came up with the 3 bolt side mount on the block they dropped the bell housing mount and went with a cross member and a tranny mount.

    /www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-55-57-CHEVY-BELLHOUSING-REAR-ENGINE-MOUNTS-PIVOT-BALL-GM-365-3733365-/272494633469
     
  4. Apr 10, 2018
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Florida Keys
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    Jan 23, 2014
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    I've confirmed that number, which applies fron '56 through '67. Go to the opposite front corner of the block where the cylinder head meets the block. There is about a 5/8" "extra" machined ledge that extends beyond the head that will have letters and numbers stamped, usually begining with "TO..." Also, the date code can be on the side of the block, or in the lifter galley. These are the details that truely identify your engine.
    -Donny
     
  5. Apr 10, 2018
    Pappabear1973

    Pappabear1973 New Member

    Canandaigua ny
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    Jan 23, 2016
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    Duffer if you read one of my replies you would have read that I do not plan on doing any off roading. This will be a daily pavement pounder with occasional need for 4wd in ny snow. Thank you for the rest of the info. I am planning in a aluminum radiator with electric fan. I will get later heads. I will want the 12 voltage with alternator and water pump and power steering pump. Thanks
     
  6. Apr 10, 2018
    73 cj5

    73 cj5 Not ready for the junkyard yet

    Clinton, Mississippi
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2014
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    2,137
    Here is a list of stuff If I were to swap my CJ5.
    Note: I have the adapters, mounts, and a few other parts to do so if I chose so they're not listed.
    I found an M22 in the junkyard that I was going to use but someone got it before me.

    305 '80-85 (14010201) Swap Parts List

    Clutch fork Novak $28
    Radiator 78 Monza V8 or 19" tall x 22" wide x 2" thick ~140
    Alternator $68
    Alternator bracket $50
    Radiator Brackets $30
    Radiator bracket rubber $5
    Radiator hoses $40
    rebuild kit ~$280
    starter $59
    Air Cleaner
    Quadra-Jet (250) or TBI (994)
    Spark Plugs AC Delco R45TS $25
    Valve Covers $29
    Thermostat $12
    thermostat gasket $20
    Ram Horns $90
    Short Water Pump $ 60
    Water pump bolts $7
    Short water pump accessory drive $ 65
    Throttle Cable/Setup
     
  7. Apr 10, 2018
    Pappabear1973

    Pappabear1973 New Member

    Canandaigua ny
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    I won't be able to find that until this weekend when I go pick it up. Thanks
     
  8. Apr 10, 2018
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Florida Keys
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    Thats the same cast iron bellhousing on the back of my '58 283. I still have the correct iron cased 3spd bolted up!
    -Donny
     
  9. Apr 10, 2018
    Pappabear1973

    Pappabear1973 New Member

    Canandaigua ny
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    Jan 23, 2016
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    OK here’s another question. I know if I go with a GM transmission like the sm465 then I will need not need an adapter plate for the transmission to bell housing. That would get me a decent strong 4 speed tranny for speed. When to comes to the transfer cases for the dollar and for the strength what would I be better off with? A Rockwell, np205, T18, t19, T20?
     

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    Last edited: Apr 10, 2018
  10. Apr 10, 2018
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
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    Personally I liked having the rear bell housing mounts in my 55 chevy...........that held the rear of the engine in place , very similar in application to a motor plate..........thus allowing free access to pull the tranny without putting a block and jack under the pan........pull the drive shaft, 4 bolts on the tranny , 2 bolts and a few more clips on the Hurst linkage and you could have the tranny on the ground in 20 minutes or less.............
     
    Pappabear1973 likes this.
  11. Apr 10, 2018
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    (Lots of power P+ short wheelbase W + highway H) * snow F = non-optional underpants changes S.
     
    Danefraz, iharding, dozerjim and 2 others like this.
  12. Apr 10, 2018
    Pappabear1973

    Pappabear1973 New Member

    Canandaigua ny
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    Lol
     
    cookieman likes this.
  13. Apr 10, 2018
    Pappabear1973

    Pappabear1973 New Member

    Canandaigua ny
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    Jan 23, 2016
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    Here is another one. How is the sm465 and t221 together behind a v8? I just found a rebuilt set paired together for a reasonable price. Thanks
     
  14. Apr 10, 2018
    dozerjim

    dozerjim Member

    western New York
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    That will make life easier
     
  15. Apr 10, 2018
    Pappabear1973

    Pappabear1973 New Member

    Canandaigua ny
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    I presume reasonable any ways... Both rebuilt about ten years ago. Never installed . Still look fresh for $650....
     
  16. Apr 10, 2018
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
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    Sep 22, 2002
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    That thing looks way to big to go in a jeep. Even a np205 is big but that thing looks monstrous. A dana 18 that came in a jeep will live decently behind a 400hp small block.
    If your not going to do much wheeling offload the sm465 is not needed, that Rockwell case is definitely not needed as parts are hard to find and it wasn't considered a real good transfer case from some quick reading on the web.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2018
  17. Apr 10, 2018
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    Bonney Lake, WA
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    X2 on the hard to find parts for the rockwell. Great box if it is in good shape, but it sucks to make all the mounts and have drivelines made and find out it is no good.
     
  18. Apr 10, 2018
    Pappabear1973

    Pappabear1973 New Member

    Canandaigua ny
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  19. Apr 10, 2018
    jeepstar

    jeepstar Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sheboygan
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    Jun 28, 2006
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    shiney and cheap don't equate to a good start.
     
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  20. Apr 10, 2018
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
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    Sep 22, 2002
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    Like I said, if you don't intend to really wheel the jeep the sm465 is a massive heavy truck box that would in effect be a 3 speed transmission in daily use.
     
    Pappabear1973 likes this.
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