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225 V6 Motorola To 1 Wire Conversion

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Unkel Dale, Dec 15, 2017.

  1. Dec 15, 2017
    Unkel Dale

    Unkel Dale delivery on my Jeep from Ft. Campbell, Ky.

    Pittsburgh, Pa.
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    Will anybody offer a fail proof schematic, I understand remove the external regulator and Motorola alternator. Replace the Motorola WITH the 1 wire, NOW WHAT GETS CONNECTED WHERE NOW?
     
  2. Dec 15, 2017
    fhoehle

    fhoehle Sponsor

    Harford Township, PA
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    One 8 gauge wire from alt to battery. Or through ammeter to battery. That's it. I love Delco one wire alternators.
     
  3. Dec 15, 2017
    Unkel Dale

    Unkel Dale delivery on my Jeep from Ft. Campbell, Ky.

    Pittsburgh, Pa.
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    The start circuit does NOT change?
     
  4. Dec 15, 2017
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

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    Did you rev up the engine to about 2k on the tach?
     
  5. Dec 15, 2017
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    Nope. Remove alternator and regulator, run a heavy gauge lead to the starter and that all.
    Simple, easy, works well.
     
  6. Dec 16, 2017
    Rick Whitson

    Rick Whitson Detroit Area 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    On my F head with a Motorola alternator I cut about an inch off the back of the GM one wire mounting bracket and it lined up with the front pulley with the Motorola bracket, and adjusting arm will need a spacer about and inch long to work too. Good Luck
     
  7. Dec 16, 2017
    Unkel Dale

    Unkel Dale delivery on my Jeep from Ft. Campbell, Ky.

    Pittsburgh, Pa.
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    So one wire goes to the battery positive terminal and one to the largest terminal on the starter, from the same single terminal on the rear face of the alternator, and the wire from the "OLD" Motorola system on the starters "big Lug" IS removed, Right?
     
  8. Dec 16, 2017
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    One wire from the alternator to the battery connection on the starter, nothing more. Technically that is going to the battery and a lug on the starter connection is probably better. Or as mentioned, and like I do go through an ammeter then to the starter. Two main concerns are an ammeter that has a big enough range for the current and heavy enough gauge wire.
     
  9. Dec 16, 2017
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    No, other than removing your old charging system stuff don't remove or change anything else....just add the one wire from the alternator.
     
  10. Dec 16, 2017
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Keep in mind I personally am talking about an F-head with a generator to alternator conversion but the consensus seems to be a V6 conversion is still as simple.
     
  11. Dec 16, 2017
    Unkel Dale

    Unkel Dale delivery on my Jeep from Ft. Campbell, Ky.

    Pittsburgh, Pa.
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    See easier that you thought, thanks to all. As techy as we are as a group, simple is better.
    What he is stating is, Take an 8 gauge copper Automotive stranded wire, It connects with a crimp on large hole solderless connecter covered with shrink wrap at the crimp to eliminate any possible grounds FROM the single stud and nut on the rear face of the alternator TO the largest stud and nut on the solenoid on the top of the starter.
    Even I can do that one!
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2017
  12. Dec 16, 2017
    1967 CJ5A

    1967 CJ5A Mike 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Normally the wire from the alterntor to the starter is all you have to do, but the original Jeep harness is a little different. The original harness has one wire from the alternator charging post to the starter, and one more from the alternator charging post to the ignition switch. These two wires (the thick, red ones) both need to be connected to the post on your new 1 wire alternator. No need to add any new wires if the old ones are in good shape and you haven't added substantial electrical accessories.
     
  13. Dec 16, 2017
    Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Active Member

    Louisville, Ky
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    Got 3 question on this

    1. Got a Delco alternator, what alternator would I get to go to one wire?

    2. Will the alt.-light in the dash still work?

    3. What do you do with the other wires to the alternator?
     
  14. Dec 16, 2017
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    1 - You need a Delco modular alternator (10SI, 12SI) that has been modified to work with a single wire. You can buy the parts to convert a regular 10SI or 12SI to one-wire - check Amazon or eBay - or you can buy an alternator that has already been converted. The factory 10SIs and 12SIs need three wires to function.

    2 - No. You need the three-wire alternator for that.

    3 - Remove them or tape them off.
     
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  15. Dec 16, 2017
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

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    Catalog
    Just thought I would throw this handy piece of info back into the mix.
     
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  16. Dec 16, 2017
    NCRenII

    NCRenII yellow fever

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  17. Dec 16, 2017
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Ammeter? Pretty sure there was none in these Jeeps prior to the Renegade package. The ammeters in these old trucks were meant to work with the original alternator, which typically makes something like 35 amps at peak charging. The lowest power 10SI has a 63 amp rating and the ammeter can't handle it. Additionally, old ammeters are a frequent cause of dash fires, even when the original alternator is used. Bypass it, or substitute a voltmeter. There is lots more about htis issue on the Mad Enterprises web page. Catalog

    IIRC ammeters were present in the '70-71-72 Rens, and optional for '73-74. The '75 CJ got a voltmeter.

    Ammeters were present in FSJ until the late 80s, and owners have a slang term for what they do - "carbeque."

    When you go to a one-wire configuration, you basically need two wires. You need a thick wire to send the battery terminal of the alternator to the battery and deliver the charging current to the battery. You also need a wire from the battery to the dash to supply the rest of the Jeep with power.

    When you have an ammeter, all the charging current goes to the dash, through the ammeter, and then back from the dash to the battery. Without an ammeter, the alternator charges the battery directly, so you already have a wire from the battery post of the alternator to the battery. The rest of the Jeep is connected by the second wire (described by Mike above) which goes under the dash. That's really not part of the alternator/regulator circuit, even though it's connected to alternator - that's just a convenient place to connect to battery power.

    If I converted to a Delco, I would put a fusible link in both of those wires. Later Jeeps with Delco alternators got a fusible link in both the connection to the solenoid (battery connection) and the connection to the dash, and a voltmeter on the dash. The 1976 Jeep CJ wiring diagram with a Delco alternator (6s got the Delco - V8s got the Motorcraft) is a good model for this conversion. http://oljeep.com/gw/76_tsm/Section22.pdf Note that the '76 diagram shows the two types of alternator on the same sheet, so don't be confused by that.
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2017
  18. Dec 16, 2017
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

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    just did a three wire on my jeep after reading this info, way better charging, and by locating the sense wire in the dash the blower motor runs way better due to the increased voltage gained.
     
  19. Dec 16, 2017
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    This. I just about burned a 65 GTO to the ground when the crappy aftermarket ammeter shorted out.
     
  20. Dec 16, 2017
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

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    Ammeters are the devil. I will never ever run one again. Seen way too many fires. They serve absolutely no purpose whatsoever and are so easily replaced by a voltmeter.
     
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