Question About Clutch Cross Shaft Location

Still waiting on the service manuals so I have no good way of looking this up. I have also tried google but came up empty.
Hoping someone with a little more knowledge can help me out.
When I took everything apart the cross shaft was bolted using circled holes Orange and far right Blue. However these holes arent inline, which led me to believe that the cross shaft should be bolted to the holes circled in Red. This however puts the cross shaft to far forward of the transfercase pivot bolt.
The two holes circled in Blue is where I believe the side step should be mounted.
The hole circled in Orange does not appear to be drilled by the factory as its a little oblong (possibly drilled with a dull bit) and like stated not in line with any of the other holes.
Also, I dont remember which way the cross shaft was when I removed it. There is a long side and a short side. I believe the short side should be on the transfercase side but was hoping someone could confirm.
thoughts?

 

Several different "lever and tube assemblies" were used depending on specific application.
Your pic does not show a standard 1947 2A .
Please identify Jeep model, engine, clutch diameter and transmission model.

Basically the frame mounted pivot ball stud (fulcrum) for lever/tube assembly is straight inline with transfer case fulcrum.
Inline both fore/aft and also up/down.

Specific Lever/tube assemblies depends on applications noted above.

 

sorry. It's a 1970 cj5 4cly 4spd

Edit:
factory 4spd and 4cly

 

I believe this is the orientation of the cross shaft

 

Yes short lever goes to clutch release fork.
There were two distinct lever/tube assemblies made to use with 4 cylinder and T98-A transmissions.
One was used with early standard 8-1/2" diameter clutches.
And the other like yours is for post 1962 Jeeps with 9-1/4" Auburn clutch.

 

The cross shaft is clutch sensitive. Like Oldtime said, there are two shafts and they are different. The difference being the "clocking" of the tangs on the shaft. Using the wrong shaft with the clutch will make it so that it can't be adjusted to either fully disengage the clutch or fully disengage the throwout bearing. With the wrong shaft you'll be able to one OR the other, but not both.

As long as you have the right shaft you can make one if it is bad by cutting a t-90 shaft in the middle and re-welding it back together -- and following the tab clocking on the old shaft.

Good luck